I am having an issue with my heated/cooled seats on the driver's side. When I push either button, the two lights above that button (high) turn on and stay on for about 30 seconds and then turn off. After that, when I push either button the light stays on a couple seconds and then goes off. This condition lasts until I turn the car off.

I read of a TSB regarding this issue being caused by a burnt wire on the control box under the passenger's seat, but in that TSB, both seats would be exhibiting this behavior. Also, I checked the box, and my connector was not burned. I also checked the box under the driver's seat, and it looked fine as well.

I also tried pulling the number 8? fuse as suggested in the TSB and it just reset the system just like when I turn the key off (30 seconds on, then off, etc).

So is there a way for me to narrow this down? Does anyone know of a test procedure? I would love to have cooled seats here in FL.

Thanks in advance!

 

Just to clarify, when I say either button, I mean driver's heated seat button or driver's cooled seat button. Both heated and cooled seats work just fine on the passenger's side.

 

To me it sounds like the seat module is acting up since the problem resets when the key is cycled. If it were a mechanical issue, such as a broken wire or a bad seat element, then I would think the issue would remain constant even after the key is cycled. A new module has to be programmed by the dealer, but if you can locate a used one I think you can just swap it out.

Here is the procedure to R&R the module.

 

I guess there is no easy way to swap sides to see if the driver's seat will work with the passenger's side of the control module.

Or what about applying power somehow to the seat blower or heat element to see if it is functional?

 

Actually, the seat blower works because I can hear it turn on and run for those 30 seconds after the key has been cycled off, so I am guessing that the heating element is probably working too.

This also verifies that the fuses, wires, etc are intact. I guess there is a chance that the motor overheats and shuts off or something, but I think Alloro is right, it sounds like the module.

In the TSB, it mentions reprogramming the DCSM with a patch, I wonder if this would be worth taking to the stealer to let them try that - the TSB says it is a .5 hour job (so $60ish?), I wonder if they will tack anything on top of that for diagnosis.

 

Maybe if they attempt the TSB procedure their equipment will pop up an issue with the module automatically, assume there really is an issue with the module.

 

Or should I just put that money towards a new module? How sure are you that the dealer needs to program this module? I wonder if Tasca can program it if I give them my VIN, or can this be programmed with a tool like FORScan?

https://www.tascaparts.com/index.php?p=cart

Edit: Forget the question about programming, I see it in the PDF you linked. Still wondering if this can be done with a FORScan or the VCM tool Skauber was telling me about.

 

I read it in the PDF I posted up in message #3 in this thread.

 

I know this is an old thread but I had the same issue. I have a 2010, I replaced one of the (2) blowers, mine was in the seat that was bad. Once I swapped it, Ford did have to re-program in order for it to function properly. It is a pain in the *** because they charge $100 to reprogram so what I suggest to do (in order to get your moneys worth) is to have them program another MyKey and update to the latest strategy on the PCM. Got all three done for $100, now it was worth it.