Biggest screw up of all time?
#1
Biggest screw up of all time?
So. I'm going to let you guys in on a secret. Don't laugh. Please.
Couple weeks ago, I *started* a fluid change on the front diff. When it was time to seal it and refil it, it was about 20 degrees out. The RTV I was using said it needed to be above 32 degrees. So I thought to myself, "As long as it's not in 4WD I'm fine, right?" Just threw the cover on and drove about 300 miles with no fluid. Then my dad says, "Well just cuz the transfer case isn't turning the diff doesn't mean the wheels won't." I think I crapped a little. . . Then talked to some guys at work and they said if I had manual hubs then I should be fine, as long as they are disengaged. Well they are. So I was resting a little easier. Now my truck does not have the motor installed to switch the transfer case from 2wd to 4. But, I was replacing the U straps on the front shaft. And I noticed that when I had test driven it (rear brakes locked up) that the front shaft had moved. I crapped again. . . I think the transfer case is stuck in 4wd. Either that or it doesn't matter that the hubs are unlocked. Or the hubs are stuck. But when I put the cover on I think I forgot and left a paper towel in there to soak up the oil. And. It is all over the inside. So that's why I think the TC is stuck in 4wd. Cuz the paper towel got moved and ripped. I guess I gotta clean it with a hose and inspect the gears and see if anything is salvageable... Anyone know which way the little **** on the TC should be for 2wd?
On closer inspection. I found gear chippings. the ammount of stupidity I feel right now doesnt even fit on a scale. The things I am saying to myself. . . well lets just say I would never repeat them in the presence of a woman. . .
Couple weeks ago, I *started* a fluid change on the front diff. When it was time to seal it and refil it, it was about 20 degrees out. The RTV I was using said it needed to be above 32 degrees. So I thought to myself, "As long as it's not in 4WD I'm fine, right?" Just threw the cover on and drove about 300 miles with no fluid. Then my dad says, "Well just cuz the transfer case isn't turning the diff doesn't mean the wheels won't." I think I crapped a little. . . Then talked to some guys at work and they said if I had manual hubs then I should be fine, as long as they are disengaged. Well they are. So I was resting a little easier. Now my truck does not have the motor installed to switch the transfer case from 2wd to 4. But, I was replacing the U straps on the front shaft. And I noticed that when I had test driven it (rear brakes locked up) that the front shaft had moved. I crapped again. . . I think the transfer case is stuck in 4wd. Either that or it doesn't matter that the hubs are unlocked. Or the hubs are stuck. But when I put the cover on I think I forgot and left a paper towel in there to soak up the oil. And. It is all over the inside. So that's why I think the TC is stuck in 4wd. Cuz the paper towel got moved and ripped. I guess I gotta clean it with a hose and inspect the gears and see if anything is salvageable... Anyone know which way the little **** on the TC should be for 2wd?
On closer inspection. I found gear chippings. the ammount of stupidity I feel right now doesnt even fit on a scale. The things I am saying to myself. . . well lets just say I would never repeat them in the presence of a woman. . .
#2
Looks like I could get out of this mess for less than 1k
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Pickup Front Axle Assembly 3.73 ratio, 4 wheel ABS, 13mm thick hub flange (from 3/15/99) (OE Used) | $678.00, 434-01351D, B130555275I, Grand Rapids, Michigan (FREE Shipping)
Just found that within 5 minutes of searching. Not saying thats what Im going to get but just seeing whats available. . .
Local junk yard has one for $500
1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty Pickup Front Axle Assembly 3.73 ratio, 4 wheel ABS, 13mm thick hub flange (from 3/15/99) (OE Used) | $678.00, 434-01351D, B130555275I, Grand Rapids, Michigan (FREE Shipping)
Just found that within 5 minutes of searching. Not saying thats what Im going to get but just seeing whats available. . .
Local junk yard has one for $500
#3
#4
This is just a reminder to everyone out there. Even if you have manual hubs and they are in the "auto" or "unlock" position (counterclockwise), the spring that releases the engagement teeth inside does not always push the locking collar back. Sometimes tapping on the lock cap with the plastic end of a decent size screwdriver is all it takes to release them, but there are a ton of pickups running around that are in the unlocked position that still spin the axle shafts because they do not always release properly.
#5
If you left the truck in 2WD and your hubs were unlocked, the front axle may have casually turned over a few times due to hub drag, but that may not have damaged it substantially. A metal shaving may not be the end of the world and a stray paper towel never killed an axle.
If you don't see massive evidence of bearing or gear face trauma, I would reassemble, fill it with gear oil, lock the hubs and drive it 50 miles and see if it gets noisy. If it seems smooth and quiet, change the oil one more time and move on.
If you don't see massive evidence of bearing or gear face trauma, I would reassemble, fill it with gear oil, lock the hubs and drive it 50 miles and see if it gets noisy. If it seems smooth and quiet, change the oil one more time and move on.
#6
If you left the truck in 2WD and your hubs were unlocked, the front axle may have casually turned over a few times due to hub drag, but that may not have damaged it substantially. A metal shaving may not be the end of the world and a stray paper towel never killed an axle.
If you don't see massive evidence of bearing or gear face trauma, I would reassemble, fill it with gear oil, lock the hubs and drive it 50 miles and see if it gets noisy. If it seems smooth and quiet, change the oil one more time and move on.
If you don't see massive evidence of bearing or gear face trauma, I would reassemble, fill it with gear oil, lock the hubs and drive it 50 miles and see if it gets noisy. If it seems smooth and quiet, change the oil one more time and move on.
#7
This is just a reminder to everyone out there. Even if you have manual hubs and they are in the "auto" or "unlock" position (counterclockwise), the spring that releases the engagement teeth inside does not always push the locking collar back. Sometimes tapping on the lock cap with the plastic end of a decent size screwdriver is all it takes to release them, but there are a ton of pickups running around that are in the unlocked position that still spin the axle shafts because they do not always release properly.
Once up to highway speeds you can usually tell if they didn't unlock. Sounds like a little extra road noise. Can also feel it in your feet.
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#8
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
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#15
Oh hell - I am the master of airing my chones over the front fence... I've made enough mistakes to fill the whole brotherhood's quota.
I'm on the side of clean it, inspect it, fill it, and drive on. Do you have a space heater to aim at the front pumpkin? How about an aftermarket magnetic block heater?
Oh... and I'd service the locking hubs.
I'm on the side of clean it, inspect it, fill it, and drive on. Do you have a space heater to aim at the front pumpkin? How about an aftermarket magnetic block heater?
Oh... and I'd service the locking hubs.