That link to the bronco forum has some good info. Thanks.
Here is the pigtail I found from lmr.com [***************]Save[/COLOR]

 

So without changing my choke pull off, can I hook it up to the coil wire? Isn't the choke supposed to be like 7v or something? I measured the coil running and got 10. It jumped around alot bit that could have been me. 10 was the highest.

 

The reason Ford connected the choke to the stator wire is because there is no power unless the alternator is turning, while the coil has power any time the key is on.
If you went out to warm up your truck and it stalled while you were back inside having coffee the choke would be wide open.
​​​​​​​It can't do this when connected to the white/black wire.

 

Does anyone know if the stator wire is 12v on a 3g? Should I replace Choke pull off with a 12v?

 

The stator wire is one unrectified leg of the alternator, so approximately 1/2 the potential of whatever voltage regulator your 3G is fitted with.
(14.35V ÷2 = 7.17 in my case)
​​​​​​​Fitting a 12V choke cap is pretty easy but you then need to use spade connectors and add a ground.

 

Ok I can just splice into stator wire then? That's easy enough. I guess measiring the voltage i have now would be wise. Just for info, when I ordeed the 1993 3.0 and 3.8 alternators they were the same size case. The 3.8 had longer mounting ears for the 8"+ mount. The 3.0 was the 7" again same size case 130amp. I also order that wiring pigtail from latemodelrestorations along with a 175 amp max fuse and fuse holder. I will delete those two small feed wires that lead to a fuseable link to the solenoid.

 

The pigtail has a inline resistor attached under shrink tubing (refer to picture above). Do in need to snip that off? Is that just for the Mustang warning light insteam of gauge?

 

I don't know anything about a resistor in the exciter wire.
I've never installed one or seen one mentioned in any of the 3G swap threads.

I *DO* have a resistor wired across my charge indicator lamp, so the alternator will put out in the event the bulb burns out.
Incidentally, this is the reason you can't put an led in the charge warning socket. They don't pass enough current to get the alternator to turn on.

 

I guess we can try and see first. Worst case is I have to remove it.

 

The 3g swap is so easy. Had to do some slight massaging of the alternator bracket but no problem. My power windows have never worked so good (although they still suck when its really cold). The gauge does read lower than before. I believe that is due to the pigtail resistor because a multi meter on the battery reveals 14.5 volts. I have not had any bat/alt gauge malfunctions since.

 

Did you ever ask what the purpose of the resistor is?

I've never seen a 3G harness with one before.

 

I believe it is for older models that dont have a gauge and will quit charging if the battery light burns out.