How do I install an amp meter to show charge and discharge? If I put it between the alternator and battery I show charge with no discharge,If I put it between the batt and ign it will only show a discharge. The regulator I am using is labeled terminals f-s-a-i, Should I us a reg with the terminals i-a-b-f?

 

C'mon guys, I would like to know the answer to this one, too!

 

Yea me too. I have the same project and i have been putting it off. It came with some instilation guide, but some how I managed to lose it.

 

Found this site... give it a try..


http://midwest4x4.simplenet.com/sparks/CJ-5FAQ/ELECTRICAL.html#AMMETER INSTALATION

hope it helps..

Bill in Mobile
'64 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4)

 

Throw that amp gauge in the garbage and go get a voltage gauge. I had a '79 F-100, put in an amp gauge and burned-up part of the electrical system. Yes, I had it hooked up correct.

 

And the answer is:

Remove every wire off the battery side terminal of the starter solenoid EXCEPT the battery cable. Put the ammeter between the solenoid battery terminal and all the wires that were removed. Turn on the headlights (engine off) and observe whether the gauge says "charge" or "discharge". If it says "charge", flip-flop the wires to the ammeter.

FL Panhandle

 

I had this same link in my Favorites folder and now it is no good

>Found this site... give it a
>try..
>
>
>http://midwest4x4.simplenet.com/sparks/CJ-5FAQ/ELECTRICAL.html#AMMETER INSTALATION
>
>hope it helps..
>
>Bill in Mobile
>'64 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4)


__JOHN__Õ¿ö
FTE Club #7
Member-
http://www.cruisin-north.com/
Santa Rosa, Calif.
72 F-250
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.net/users/jbhf250/
https://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html

 

Mulletwagon's wiring solution is correct. But whatever you do,
make sure you run at least 10guage wire for this. You have to
remember the WHOLE truck is running off of this wiring. Also,
as others have found out, wiring practices must be carefully
observed. This wiring IS NOT fused in any way and a short to
any metal part of the truck spells disaster.

 

Both those links are dead, thats ok tho mulletwagon saved the day thank you, as for voltmeters i find them to be worthless to know if your charging or not as the alt can die nd you wont know till your battery is to low to start the engine and by that time its to late , to bad they only use voltmeters on newer cars and we all know the factory gauges arent much more than fancy idiot lights thats ok ford ampmeters were never any good anyway

 

Hello,

I was reading here and maybe the question I posed elsewhere on this site below is appropriate here. Is it possible that the "alternator gauge" is working as it is designed and I am expecting it to work as an "amp meter" ?

Hello,
I just purchased a 98 extended cab with 4.6L. The battery gauge doesn't seem to act correctly but the dealer claims it is OK. After the truck has been sitting the gauge sits at just above 8 until it has been driven about 10 minutes and then moves up to the start of "normal" range. After about 30 minutes the needle moves into the normal range and will remain there, even if the engine is off but ignition is on. No amount of electrical system use seems to affect the needle position. There doen't appear to be any electrical problem, however, and the alternator output registers at about 14 volts. I have purchased a "Chiltons" and a Haynes manual but cannot find evidence of an actual sensor for the battery gauge and the wiring schematics do not have a specfic battery gauge path, just an instrument cluster. Does anyone know what the measured voltage should be at the gauge itself? What amount of current draw would be maesureable at the gauge and would cause noticable needle movement?

Thanks................WALT

 

Part 2:

Thanks for the input....I am still under warranty and will take it back again.
What I was intending to do was to to hook up a Digital Multi-meter at the gauge to measure tha actual voltage and current that the gauge sees, both static and under load conditions. If the variation is what I expect, but the gauge does not register it, then I suspect the gauge. I purchased the truck from iMotors ( and incidently am very happy with the process and transaction) and their initial inspection was that the gauge was inoperable and the instument cluster was removed and the gauge replaced during the reconditiing process. If the voltage and current does not vary under load, eg. starting or headlights tuned on, then I would suspect a sending unit( if there is one)or circuit problem. Do you suspect that I could damage the instruent cluster by hooking up the meter?
Thanks...............WALT