E350 motorhome issue and codes
#1
E350 motorhome issue and codes
Was asked to move this here I have a 1990 F250 I am rebuilding the motor but came across this deal and could not pass it up. Friend of mine had it and well it will run with starter fluid and it runs great but fuel is not getting to the engine it has 40000 miles on it. Now I have done a KOEO test and well got some codes sort of not sure of the first flashes when I first turn the key it flashes like sputters quick then pause then codes as follows. The best I can tell 221 959 695 96 the pauses are in between those I guess maybe I am wrong. What gets me from what I have searched some of those numbers don't jive. The problem is it turns over fine but no start except with starter fluid. I also shorted #6 to check the fuel pumps still no start. Also as big as this is what do you guys think about towing it with my F250 to get it home if I cannot get it running here. Thanks
#2
Codes look like KOEO 11 11
Space 1
CM 95 96 95 96.
Sounds like a open fuse link at the starter relay (solenoid) battery side.
Did the fuel pump relay click when you grounded pin #6 and turn on the key?
95 CM is from you grounding pin #6.
96 Open circuit between the BATT(+) supply and the FPM connection to the Power-to-Pump circuit.
OR
Fuel pump relay contacts always open.
Space 1
CM 95 96 95 96.
Sounds like a open fuse link at the starter relay (solenoid) battery side.
Did the fuel pump relay click when you grounded pin #6 and turn on the key?
95 CM is from you grounding pin #6.
96 Open circuit between the BATT(+) supply and the FPM connection to the Power-to-Pump circuit.
OR
Fuel pump relay contacts always open.
#3
Yes it was a KOEO test as engine will not run my hearing is not the greatest but did not hear click when I jumped to ground. My buddy says he hears the pump run but I think it has 2 pumps now thats a guess. Sorry did not say but this is a 460 fuel injected, so the fuel pump relay could be bad is that what I am interpreting from the 96 or no supply to FPM. He seemed to think the fuel pump is bad but I want to chase the codes before ripping into the tank.
#5
#7
Yes you have two fuel pumps, a low pressure one in the fuel tank and a high pressure on the frame. You may also have a single tank reservoir mount on the frame also. There will also be a fuel filter on the frame.
I would put a fuel gauge on the fuel rail and see what pressure you have with pin #6 grounded and the key on.
You can rent a fuel pressure gauge at most auto part stores and get your money back when you bring it back.
I would put a fuel gauge on the fuel rail and see what pressure you have with pin #6 grounded and the key on.
You can rent a fuel pressure gauge at most auto part stores and get your money back when you bring it back.
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#10
depends on how you tow it. I would flat tow it, NP if it wasn't far.
Recently towed a 4,400 lb buick on a 2,200 lb u-haul trailer with a 96 F150 i6. Usually cars I buy are 3,400 lbs.. but 6,600 lbs at 60mph no problem or extra strain. Their trailers have some kind of brake mechanism though when you slow down.
So yeah.. if it was only 10-20 miles.. I'd tell buddy to get in and buckle up, while you drag his *** home.
Recently towed a 4,400 lb buick on a 2,200 lb u-haul trailer with a 96 F150 i6. Usually cars I buy are 3,400 lbs.. but 6,600 lbs at 60mph no problem or extra strain. Their trailers have some kind of brake mechanism though when you slow down.
So yeah.. if it was only 10-20 miles.. I'd tell buddy to get in and buckle up, while you drag his *** home.
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