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OEM Front Sway Bar End Link Removal

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Old 08-25-2016, 02:22 AM
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OEM Front Sway Bar End Link Removal

I have a parts truck that has a factory front sway bar. I would like to use it on my truck. Years ago I attempted this on my old truck, but had no luck and went with an aftermarket one. The issue is the end link brackets are mounted to the bolt that connects the radius arm and the I Beam. I read that its torque spec is pretty high. I was never able to get it loose. It seems it would be easier to swap the whole I beam and radius arm. Is there a trick to this?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:53 AM
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The trick that has worked for me in the past is heat, penetrating oil and a cheater pipe on a breaker bar. As far as swapping the axle: unbolt old and bolt in 'new'.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
The trick that has worked for me in the past is heat, penetrating oil and a long cheater pipe on a breaker bar. As far as swapping the axle: unbolt old and bolt in 'new'.
Fixed that for ya!!!
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:28 AM
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When I got mine, I got it off with an impact wrench.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:10 AM
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I pried open the spring enough to fit a socket inside the spring (can't remember what size though). From there, I jammed the ratchet into the spring, connected it to the socket. It still would not budge, so as another poster said, I inserted a long pipe onto the end of the ratchet. Came right off.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:27 AM
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There is no need to pry open the spring. Drop the socket in from the top of the spring. I have an extra deep socket that I use with an extension. That allows me to put a breaker bar/ ratchet on it above the top of the coil spring bucket.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:56 PM
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x2 on dropping it in the top.

6pt sockets, breaker bar, long pipe. Works every time.


A 3/4 bar that's adapted down to 1/2 will be stronger and flex less than a 1/2 bar. You don't need anything more than a standard deep socket to get the coil mount off. However, you do need an extra deep socket to take the upper radius arm stud out (which doesn't need to be done to swap the coil perch). If you don't want to spend a bajillion dollars on one socket then a hitch ball wrench and BFH works well but is much slower. Reassemble with anti-seize.
 
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:09 PM
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Thanks for all the replies and tips. Although had I looked closer, this wouldn't have been a question. I didn't realize that the end link bracket was part of the spring perch. The last factory one had to work on had a separate bracket mounted under the spring perch to the nut that actually holds the the I beam and radius arm together. This went fairly smoothly since its just removing the spring.
 
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