Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a 2001 excursion 7.3 after driving it for a while I have noticed a significant clunk and vibrate in the rear end. I have read a lot of people saying it could be the slip yoke needing lube which I intend to do but most are saying that their clunk is at start and stop. Mine is between 30 and 60mph when I let off the accelerator I get a clunk followed by a vibration and when I get on the accelerator it is just the clunk.

Does this sound like the slip yoke to yall or am I looking at something more? I have tried turning the drive saft and there is no play in it at all.

Thanks for helping out a first time Ford owner

 

Most likely is either a really bad u-joint (or more), bad carrier bearing, or combination. There are three total u-joints. The slip yoke may very well also be part of the picture, but your symptoms are classic tell-tale for drive-line vibration.

You can easily test the carrier bearing by simply pushing up on it from below with the truck NOT running and parked.

If you take the drive line apart to inspect the u-joints, make sure to mark both driveshafts on one side with a paint marker so you don't get them back in 180° out of phase because that alone will create it's own source for additional vibration. Ask me how I know!

If I were you, depending on your mileage, I would seriously consider replacing all three u-joints, carrier bearing, and then go ahead and grease the slip yoke while you have it apart.

 

harbor freight ball joint remover kits works well for ujoints or you can rent for free at most parts places


I did my first set two summer ago and this tool made it easy


mine vibrated and no clunk but found one joint bearing seized up

 

Another vote for using a ball joint removal tool on the u-joints... works very well. It never occurred to me, though, to even try this until I was into my second round of u-joint replacements.

 

Index the shaft on both ends (white out works) . Pull the shaft and replace all u joints.

It's best to go this route since it's new to you and then you have a benchmark to go by.

Drive it and see what you see.

BTW, pay very acute attention to how the rear pinion yoke looks after removal. After a joint flops around on it for awhile, it wears and you'll never get the u joint to sit in direct line.

Denny

 

Might be your rear differential, open it up and check the gears for wear. Its a good idea to check/replace fluids after you buy an older vehicle anyhow.

 

Thank you all for the advise! I am definitely going to do the u joints and carrier bearings as well as the slip yoke. The only question for me now is if I want to tackle the job myself or take it to a local driveline shop. I am fairly confident I can manage the u joints but am concerned that I am not equipped to handle the carrier bearings because I do not have a puller or press.
I will probably bite the bullet and have the pros do it, any ideas on the typical cost for that type of job?

 

see if that's too hard to do

 

I watched this video yesterday, all looks doable I was just concerned over the removal and reinstallation of the carrier bearing. I don't have impact tools or the puller shown in the video. In your opinion would this job be doable without said tools?

 

Before I did anything else, I'd grease that slip spline.

It's easy, cheap, and it's a well-known cause of what you describe.

However, the vibration issue may describe something more is necessary.

Pop

 

Do the u-joints yourself, and if the work is required, then take the drive shaft with carrier bearing to a drive line shop. They will typically only charge about $15-$25 to remove the old one and install the new one. If you let them do all of the work, you're looking at $150-250 just for the labor, and you'll also pay more for the parts. I've done it that way twice, and I'm generally in and out of the drive line shop within 20 minutes.

 

Well I decided to do the work myself, just 2 u joints and grease the slip yoke. Ended up still having to take it to the driveline shop to get the u joint pressed in (stubborn little bugger ) anyways clunk and vibration is gone. Thank you all again!

I am noticing that the wheel and hub on the drivers side gets really hot after driving, I am assuming that isn't normal (never owned a truck this size before) any opinion on what might be causing this or should I just take it to a shop and have them check it out?

 

Too late now, but if you have an Auto Zone near you I believe they have the loan-a-tool for whatever tool you woulda needed to press the U joint

 

Slide pins on the brakes are a common problem. You could have excessive wear on the inside face of the rotor because of this. That... or your park break actuator lever is stuck - very common again.

 

If you replace the slide pins, remember that there is an upgraded set of parts. Half of the new pins have a rubber seal, and they are position-dependent.

Pop