Would this be indicated by fuel pressure reading ?
I guess my question is could you tell if your HPOP is working well enough by having enough fuel pressure ?

Kyle

 

After speaking with one of the guys from PIS he explained how he believed that 160/80 would tow better than 160/30's

I don't know enough about injectors to argue with anybody

Kyle

 

I thought I read somewhere that Matt @ gearhead actually prefers to tune a reman injector, something about them being easier to get dialed in..

Kyle

 

Not a lot of info there for somebody like me looking to run from 350-400 HP.
Most of that topic about about big power..

I believe a lot has changed since 2009.

What injectors are you using ?

Kyle

 

I would definitely get new not reman. I have remans and Matt's tuning and I have never been completely happy with the injectors. I don't think the tuning is the problem.

 

I've never heard of that, but it is frustrating to have bought NEW AC 160's and come to find out that my Rebuilt 175's ran better. jijiji Go figure....!!!

 

No, a properly working HPOP would be indicated by ICP. Ideally, you will want to see 2600-2800+ psi ICP sustained during a WOT run. The pressure of the injected fuel is determined by the high pressure oil that the HPOP produces and is multiplied in the injector x 7 which applied to the fuel. So, for clarification, if you have 3000 psi ICP which gets applied to a piston that multiplies that force x seven and then applies that to the fuel you will have fuel that is being injected at 21,000 psi.

Your fuel pump simply has to get the fuel from the tank to the injector at preferably around 60-65 psi.

 

Guagepro is giving you his experience and I will not totally disagree with him. I have the same injectors and they are nice with a few caveats.

On extreme tuning, read long FIPW, 160/80's will smoke as will all injectors, stock even more so; however, the 80% nozzles further reduce the need for the long FIPW over the 30%'ers in the first place. 80%'ers are faster than 30%'ers, and 30%'ers can inject fuel a little faster than 160/0's.

If you read the descriptions on the P.I.S. website for the 160/30's vs 160/80's, they specifically state that the 160/80's are designed for the higher RPM range. That is where I choose to keep my RPM's when towing heavy on grades, up mountains, etc. Keeping RPM's there in the higher range should automatically lower EGT's, more air flowing through the engine with the given set fueling. Otherwise I don't think it matters much due to the fact that it takes approximately the same amount of fuel to go the same speed in the same environment if no other variables change.

With 160/30's you will be limited to their output "period". With 160/80's you can have very similar fueling to that which is available with the 160/30's with proper tuning, read detuned with almost no adverse side effects...as long as the tunes address the difference. The difference between the two lies in the fact that the 80% nozzles can get the fuel into the cylinder sooner on a shorter FIPW than the 30%'ers ever will thus making lower EGT's an even greater possibility due to the fact that the fuel/flame is not chasing the piston ever closer to the point that the exhaust valve opens. I don't see a downside to this. Others may. 80% Nozzles are very easy to tune for per Matt, cleatus12r, Pocket, Tony et al.

In the thread that you were given to read, Matt (Gearhead), says much the same thing. Time is THE constant(C) that does not change, other than thru RPM's which denote time, in injection events.

Most of the logic that Matt applies in that thread is still valid today. Matt has never indicated to me that he prefers remans over new.

If you can afford it, go with new. Otherwise, for remans, stick to Jim or Ryan.

 

Could you describe the way in which the old ones ran better? Who built them? Who is manufactured the new injectors?

 

I say they ran better for the following reasons:

Idle was nice and crisp
Idled at 650 rpm consistently
No smoke or hardly any when getting on it.
Pulled my 10k enclosed easier, less effort, no downshifting.
More torque in the lower rpm range.
Just a more fun to drive truck (hard to explain)

I know tuning has a lot to do, but like i stated i've received two batches of tunes from GH with no success.

Maybe i need to go to a larger nozzle.... maybe a live tune session will dial them in. I just feel like the 160/0% is a bit temperamental. jejeje

 

Thank you for the reply. I understand completely. It is hard to go down in injector size once you have felt what a larger capacity is capable of. I'm glad that I did not go with 160/0's and wish I had purchased at least 80% nozzles at a minimum and added more capacity.

What size nozzles were on the 175's. If you don't mind share whose injectors each one is/were.....?

 

Sure... i have no problem disclosing who the 175's were from.

Swamps 175 0% nozzles - Remans.

 

I personally have 238-80% from unlimited, with gh tunes. It took two tries to get the idle to pretty much stock quality. I would personally go with 80% nozzles over every other nozzle unless your able to have a live tuning session then 200's would be my choice. I did months of reading before I made my choice. First thing I was told by many here in choosing a injector was decide on your tuneing first. My choice was gh no matter what for the simple fact that they have been known for keeping PMR motors alive at 400hp+. They like to tune ffd or unlimited's injectors. I called both and decided on unlimited's just for the simple fact of there lifetime warranty against workmanship. There are some other tuners out there keeping PMR motors alive but when 6 out of 10 recommended gh that's who I chose. If you have 2-3 tuners you want run then I would talk with all of them and see if they have a injector company they all like tuneing? That would be my advice. That being said my motor has been alive for 1.5 years now at 442hp and 864tq. With a tow tune of 400hp and 806 tq.