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AC down - but which part?

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Old 05-26-2016, 08:55 AM
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AC down - but which part?

This happened near 2 years ago and I'm now trying to repair:

Just bought 79 Ford E150. 8cy Windsor
I was told in advance the factory AC no longer worked but he didn't know why.
So, driving down the road one day and smoke starts pouring out from under the hood. Turns out it was the AC belt melting on the seized up compressor. The whole thing has been removed since then.

So now I am trying to figure out... what do I have to buy (besides a belt. lol)? Compressor? Bearings? clutch? whole darn thing?
Not sure how to diagnose without it attached as most sites start with what's happening inside and that isn't an option now.

Thanks
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:21 AM
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At the min you will need a new compressor and belt. You may want to take it to a shop and have them remove the r12 (Freon) and save it for you, for the refill. It's not cheap. I'm not sure if it can be retrofitted for 134r but now would be a good time to look into that unless you have to keep it original.

Another option is to just update the whole thing for about $1000.
Nostalgic AC - 1973 - 1979 F-Series Truck Heat A/C & Defrost

They have a few options since you have the controls and HVAC system already..
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by norvillebob

Another option is to just update the whole thing for about $1000.
Nostalgic AC - 1973 - 1979 F-Series Truck Heat A/C & Defrost

They have a few options since you have the controls and HVAC system already..
ouch!
I can maybe swing 200-300, but at a grand?!
I like saunas... maybe learn to do hot yoga?

 
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:48 AM
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yep, that's why I still have 2-40 air... the compressor looks like it's running $150-300 and then it needs to be charged.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:58 AM
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At minimum you'll need a compressor and clutch & receiver/drier.
Now days you'll need to have the system discharged and, very important, flushed. Whenever a compressor seizes you can pretty much guarantee that there's now trash in the system. Installing a rebuilt compressor without flushing the system is not a good idea. You'll also need to have a licensed facility recharge the system.
Now would be a good time to look into the Sanden compressor conversion and also converting it to R134a.
A new Sanden style compressor w/ clutch is cheaper than a rebuilt York without the clutch.
If you go with the R134a you can do the work yourself.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:08 PM
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[QUOTE=mandi;16313369]Just bought 79 Ford E150 351Windsor.

I was told in advance the factory AC no longer worked but he didn't know why.
So, driving down the road one day and smoke starts pouring out from under the hood. Turns out it was the AC belt melting on the seized up compressor. QUOTE]
Is this a 1979 E150 (Econoline) with a 351W or a 1979 F150 w/a 351M?
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Is this a 1979 E150 (Econoline) with a 351W or a 1979 F150 w/a 351M?

1979 E150 (Econoline) with a 351W
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mandi
1979 E150 (Econoline) with a 351W
You should ask questions in the 1968/2013 full size Van (Econoline) forum. This forum is for 1973/79 F Series trucks.

1975/1991 Econolines use a totally different factory A/C than 1973/79 F100/350.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
You should ask questions in the 1968/2013 full size Van (Econoline) forum. This forum is for 1973/79 F Series trucks.

1975/1991 Econolines use a totally different factory A/C than 1973/79 F100/350.

oops! Sorry about that. Reposted
 
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