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Tire discounts up to $100 on 4 tires, plus another $60 if you use their credit card which gives you 6 months to pay with no interest.
Wheel discounts up to $100 on 4 wheels, plus another $60 with their card.
Together, up to $320 off.
For example, a set of Hankook Dyna Pro tires in 235/70-15 comes to $456 shipped, less $75 on the tires and $60 with the card, for a total of $321, or $80/tire. And that includes $51 for the the lifetime warranty added, which you could pass on (making them only $67.50/tire).
I bought a set of Yokohama YK-HTX tires and a set of MB TKO wheels mounted and balanced with warranty and lugnuts for $968 - $320 rebates = $648 ($162 each wheel and tire). And no sales tax!
Tire discounts up to $100 on 4 tires, plus another $60 if you use their credit card which gives you 6 months to pay with no interest.
Wheel discounts up to $100 on 4 wheels, plus another $60 with their card.
Together, up to $320 off.
For example, a set of Hankook Dyna Pro tires in 235/70-15 comes to $456 shipped, less $75 on the tires and $60 with the card, for a total of $321, or $80/tire. And that includes $51 for the the lifetime warranty added, which you could pass on (making them only $67.50/tire).
I bought a set of Yokohama YK-HTX tires and a set of MB TKO wheels mounted and balanced with warranty and lugnuts for $968 - $320 rebates = $648 ($162 each wheel and tire). And no sales tax!
Photos would like to see your tires and wheel setup? Or was this not for your truck?
Sooooo, Discount Tire called me Friday because they wanted to make sure I was ok with the offset of the MB TKO wheels I ordered above. The MB wheels wheels are wider than stock (8" vs 7.5 stock), and the offset is -19mm (vs -8mm stock), which would move the tire out about an inch. Wouldn't be a problem if I were gonna raise the vehicle, but I do fully load her with materials a couple times a year and just didn't want to risk any rubbing.
Instead, went with these Vision 375 Warrior wheels which are an almost stock fit. Once I got past the "Transformer" looks, I'm going with it. Checked a lot of vehicles online and they look better mounted.
Anyway, got to say I'm impressed with Discount Tire. They spent well over an hour on three different phone calls with me till I got a combo of wheels and tires I liked. (sticking with the Yoko's - new compound is supposed to be really good in the wet, which was my major gripe with the old tires running on a truck without posi. Will report back when they're on and running.)
Sooooo, Discount Tire called me Friday because they wanted to make sure I was ok with the offset of the MB TKO wheels I ordered above. The NB wheels wheels are wider than stock (8" vs 7.5 stock), and the offset is -19mm (vs -8mm stock), which would move the tire out about an inch. Wouldn't be a problem if I were gonna raise the vehicle, but I do fully load her with materials a couple times a year and just didn't want to risk any rubbing.
Instead, went with these Vision 375 Warrior wheels which are an almost stock fit. Once I got past the "Transformer" looks, I'm going with it. Checked a lot of vehicles online and they look better mounted.
Anyway, got to say I'm impressed with Discount Tire. They spent well over an hour on three different phone calls with me till I got a combo of wheels and tires I liked. (sticking with the Yoko's - new compound is supposed to be really good in the wet, which was my major gripe with the old tires running on a truck without posi. Will report back when they're on and running.)
They offering good rebates on rims I think $100 off for president days sale right? I was eye balling the set you originally wanted all black little different style and guy was going to let me have them with his discounts at $360 for all four rims but with tax just over $425. Then mount my 265-75-16 Pirelli tires but I backed off.
Wish I would have gotten them but next time. Any ways I like both but if it were my truck I would have gone with the all black instead of that flashy chrome.
Good to know to watch out for spokes cracking may have to look into that when I do go buy my set.
be very careful with those rims. they like to crack at the spokes.
Haven't found anything to indicate that spoke cracking is common with these wheels, but I'll keep my eye on them.
Vision says they have a lifetime structural warranty
Vision Wheel guarantees the quality of all of their Vision Wheel, Milanni and Off-Road wheels with a lifetime structural warranty. Additionally, we include a one-year warranty for the finish. If you should have any problems with your Vision Wheel, Milanni or Off-Road wheels, please return them to the place of purchase. For additional warranty assistance, please contact us at 1-800-633-3936.
The few instances I did find with problems (like two cases) both said Discount Tire sent out a replacement wheel immediately.
not that brand wheel specifically, but those style wheels in general. they have much less contact area between the hub and bead surface. so they tend to crack or break the spokes on impact with curb or pothole where a steel or 8 hole alloy rim will absorb the impact.
not that brand wheel specifically, but those style wheels in general. they have much less contact area between the hub and bead surface. so they tend to crack or break the spokes on impact with curb or pothole where a steel or 8 hole alloy rim will absorb the impact.
Thanks for the clarification, tjc. I did find many examples of the failures you describe on the web. A good warning to the wise!
for a car they are ok. for a truck that is usually run at load they are not that good.
while i am not that fond of aftermarket wheels, i don't mind them if they are solid.
i have american racing alloys on my older trucks:
but they are pretty much the same as the stock alcoas used by ford starting in the mid 90's that developed into the stock alloy wheels.
the biggest issue i have had with aftermarket wheels is the hub opening. stock wheels are designed to put the vehicle weight on the hub. the wheel studs simply hold the wheel in place. aftermarket wheels tend to have a larger opening hub so the wheel studs have to hold the wheel on and absorb the load as well. i have had 2 different fords F150 and E150 that have sheered the wheel studs off when i used aftermarket wheels.
the biggest issue i have had with aftermarket wheels is the hub opening. stock wheels are designed to put the vehicle weight on the hub. the wheel studs simply hold the wheel in place. aftermarket wheels tend to have a larger opening hub so the wheel studs have to hold the wheel on and absorb the load as well. i have had 2 different fords F150 and E150 that have sheered the wheel studs off when i used aftermarket wheels.
Originally Posted by tjc transport
when buying aftermarket wheels you have to know if they are hub centric or stud centric.
You both raise very good points, gentlemen. I'm an engineer by profession and this was a subject I hadn't much considered when picking these wheels.
Based on some research, if the wheel was supposed to be hub centered (as on Ford trucks), then there is a chance that it may be difficult to get a wheel properly centered with just the lug nuts, even if you switch to cone- or ball-faced lug nuts (depending on the wheel). The wheel will vibrate if off centered, and it can even sheer the lugs if it gets bad enough.
Fortunately, it seems you can buy hub-centric rings to adapt just about any wheel to any hub, and they're pretty cheap ($10 - $20 a set). These make it easy to get the wheels aligned consistently. You can get aluminum rings for a little more, but most are polycarbonate plastic.
Some people on the web appear to be afraid that the plastic isn't strong enough to support the load, but this is a misunderstanding. The load isn't carried by the ring or the flange on the hub, even with the stock setup. The load is carried by the friction of the wheel face held tight against the hub by the lug nuts properly torqued. (now, if the lugs are loose, all bets are off!)
Anyway, I don't know what size rings to order just yet, but that's my plan once I get the wheels next week. I'll post more after the wheels come in.
In the meantime, I contacted Discount Tire to see if the proper rings are being included with my shipment.
Originally Posted by Discount Tire
We frequently see questions regarding hub centric rings so we decided to put this thread together to help answer some of these questions.
First, some terms you will need to know.
“Hub Centric Wheels”
Hub centric wheels have a center bore that matches the vehicle’s hub pilot.
“Non Hub Centric Wheels”
Non hub centric wheels have a larger center bore than the vehicles hub pilot.
What are hub centric rings?
Hub centric rings, typically made of plastic or metal, are designed and used to fill the gap between the hub pilot of the vehicle and the
center bore of the wheel.
Here's what the hub pilot, the center bore of a wheel, and hub centric rings look like:
What purpose do hub centric rings serve?
A hub centric ring’s sole purpose is to help align and center the wheel and tire assembly on the vehicle’s hub pilot. Once the wheel assembly
is torqued, the hub centric ring’s job is complete. Hub rings help reduce and can eliminate wheel and tire vibrations caused during installation.
Do all wheels need hub centric rings?
No, not all wheels need hub centric rings.
Wheels that are “Hub Centric” for the vehicle will fit over the vehicles hub pilot without any gap. All original equipment and some aftermarket
wheels are hub centric but most aftermarket wheels are not hub centric.
Wheels that are "Non Hubcentric" can be mounted without hub rings if the proper time and care it taken to center the wheel on the vehicles
hub during installation.
I read that you have to run hub centric rings on non hub centric wheels or the lug nuts/studs will break do to extra load. Is this
true?
This is not the case. The vehicles hub pilot, studs, and lug nuts are not load bearing. What actually holds a wheel on the vehicle is force friction
that is created once the lug nuts are torqued to specifications set by the vehicle manufacturer.
How are hub centric rings sized?
Hub centric rings are sized by the outer diameter to inner diameter. The outer diameter is the hub bore of the wheel and the inner
diameter is the hub pilot on the vehicle.
Here's an example:
The hub pilot on a 2000 Nissan Altima is 66.1mm. The hub bore on the 17x7 Konig Unknown (a popular wheel for this application) is 73.1mm.
From looking at the hub pilot and hub bore specs, we know there is a 7mm. gap. To fill this gap a hub centric ring is used. The correct ring
size for this particular application is 73.1(Outer Diameter) to 66.1(Inner Diameter).
Which material is better, aluminum or plastic?
There is a lot of debate on which material is best and there are Pros and Cons to both. Here's our take on the subject.
If you live in an area where snow and road salt is present, or in an area around the ocean, plastic rings are best used. Unlike the metal
aluminum rings, the plastic rings will not oxidize and corrode.
If you push your vehicle to the limits and are constantly on the brakes, like when road racing for example, a metal hub centric ring is best
used. Contrary to what you may read, under heavy braking or racing situations, plastic rings can deteriorate from the heat being
generated. The heat can break down the plastic material making it brittle which can ultimately lead to the ring braking. Although rare
and under extreme conditions, the plastic ring can completely melt and deform.
If your vehicle is mainly used as a daily driver, pick one and go with it, either one will get the job done.
Discount Tire Direct includes hub centric rings FREE of charge (when applicable) with every set of wheels we sell. We also sell hub
centric ring sets in both plastic and aluminum for only $15.00. This price does include FREE shipping so if you need a set of hub centric
rings, give us a call at 1.888.459.4080 and anyone of our agents would be happy to set you up.
02-11-2016, 08:25 PM
Here's an example: