Hi Gang, Happy holidays




I am installing an EZ-21 and I have a question. The diagram they sent shows the dash Ign switch with two wires off of ign post. One is ing. sw ing. wire. The other is Ing sw coil.


In the fuse panel, the pink coil wire goes to the coil fuse, so it would appear that there would be battery on it from the fuse.


There would also be battery on it from the ign switch.


The real question is this: Could I just run that coil wire fight to the coil.


At this time I do not see any other wire that should go to the coil, other then that pink wire and it looks like it has two battery sources..


I am running the original type ing switch that appears to have the bat post, rad(acc), am which is the ing side of the switch.


I will be running my start circuit off of ign side of the switch.


Thanks for any help

 

I have not got to this point on my truck but plan on buying this same kit.I would start by calling their customer service reps if you haven't done so already.I have heard they are pretty helpful from other threads that have ben posted.

 

Cruiser 456. Thanks I did call them on Wed., but they have not returned my call as of today. I'm proceeding to other areas of the wiring and will try and get with them next week

 

Any one with information on this would be appreciated.

Thanks

Customer service has not returned my call

 

Jim,
I used the EZ Wiring 21 circuit harness in my truck. Its been several years since I installed it.


Keep in mind that its essentially a universal harness so there might be some wires that are not needed.
I think what you should do is figure out what wires you need for your application and then find them in the harness.


I take it you are using and original style starting/ignition system? If so you will need an output from the key switch that feeds the ignition system (usually to the ballast resistor and then on to the coil). For ignitions systems with a ballast resistor they will have a 12v bypass when the key is in the start position that feeds battery voltage straight to the coil bypassing the ballast resister to give you hotter spark when starting. I think that on Fords this comes from the starter solenoid and not from the ignition switch.


I think I still have the instruction packet that came with my harness. I'll see if I can find it and have a look at it and try and give you a better answer


Bobby

 

Bobby, nice to hear from you. Hope you had a great holiday.


Yes, Bob, My start system is like the old, except that I am 12V Pos Gnd.


I am starting off with new everything.


I have already pulled out any wires that I am not using and am starting to run my wires, one circuit at a time. It is going pretty good.


I will be using my starter button. My real question is to run the coil wire directly from the coil fuse. or to the switch first, then to coil. If I run it from the switch, the coil will not have its own fuse.. All the rest I have pretty much figured out so far.


Enjoy the day


Thanks


EZ-21 is lacking on actual schematics and detailed lay out. But I have it down

 

Hey Jim, I've never heard of anyone leaving the system positive ground when converting to 12 volts. Why are you doing that? I think any 12 volt accessories you might add will need a negative ground.

 

Jim,
Joe makes a good point, why "positive" ground?
I didn't get a chance to dig in the garage today...I got familied. I think I got them all safely on the road today so maybe tomorrow I can dig up my EZ Wiring packet.


I don't recall there being a fuse in the ignition circuit but then again, there's all sorts of things that I don't recall. I'll dig in the garage in the morning and find those schematics and try and see what you're up against.


Bobby

 

MY BAD. Typo. 12 v, Neg grnd. ( fat fingers) Working on the headlight circuit today. Coming along good.




Will post pics when complete. Along those lines, I need a good source for loom.
Thanks all

 

Jim,
I used the standard old split loom, you can find it most anywhere in a variety of sizes.



When I wired up my truck I layed out and routed the harness and didn't make any terminations until I was completely satisfied, I'm glad I did it that way because I ended up rerouting the wiring in some areas 3 or 4 times to get it where I liked it. Once I was happy with the routing I then went back and made the final terminations.
I used standard but connectors and similar crimp on style ends but I'm not fond of the look of the look of the blue, yellow or red ends of them. I pushed the metal part out of the insulated pieces and then soldered them to the wires and covered them with heat sink for a nice clean look. Then I put split loom over everything.


Good luck
Bobby

 

If you have a single coil wire(pink), it goes directly to the coil(or ballast resistor). It should already be tied into the ignition switch circuit before the fuse.

You can also test circuits with a 12v source and a test light if in doubt.

 

Thanks tinman. That is kind of what I thought. Thanks too Bobby and Jolly roger. Everyone have a great day. Kids are down from NY. I will resume work on truck next week.

 

I think the top picture might be the diagram you are referring to from EZ Wiring. I have no idea why they show 2 different wires coming from ignition switch, there should only be one.


I know the middle pic is labeled GM Standard ignition (points type) but they are all pretty much the same. The main differences between Ford, GM, and Mopar is how they handle the ballast resistor. Some use an actual ballast resistor while other companies use a resistive wire, either way the net effect is to chop the 12V feed to the coil approx. in half for normal running. There is typically a 12V bypass that feeds 12V to the coil when the ignition switch is in the Start position.


The third pic shows a typical points style ignition circuit.


Hope this helps some.
Bobby