Good info.


Did you clean the nozzles at all before reassembly?


The biggest worry I have had in terms of the stage 1's is long term "coking" of the orifice, simply because I do the modifications in house, and the pintle is still the same unit as the stock nozzle, so it doesn't automatically "de-coke" itself like the smaller orifice does, or at least that would be a worst case.


It may end up that I have to have the supplier do the modifications for the stage 1's prior to me getting my hands on them, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, now that I have a good relationship with them, and they know I have a real operation, they are more likely to invest the time in more than one style of nozzle. We'll see.


Have you run the truck yet?

 

Nope. 7 of them I didn't even take apart, I just tested.
The 8th, I never pulled the pintle/nozzle apart.
This could explain the varying spray patterns;
As far as longevity/issues... We shall see. I'll keep an eye on things.

Yup; I ran it about 100 miles on Saturday, then another 50 today. I advanced it a bit more than I had yesterday, and it seems slightly better...
It's smoking a blue/gray haze at WOT above 3000 RPM, though(Floored in third accelerating up a hill)... I think this may be because it's currently too retarded up that high. I'll advance it a bit more and see how that works.

 

Rob thanks so much for the tip about the trim screw!!!

I have timing gear but this pump is tilted so far that it's a real pain to move it a little here or there. After I got new injectors it needed a ton(relatively) of advance.
This helped dial in my timing SO much easier. I can do it on the side of the highway in 3 mins.

Well done sir!

 

Just remember that it may affect the timing curve etc. Of course, with a worn pump, what do you have to lose?

Depending on how it feels, you might try playing with the light load advance cam as well - I try to get the trim screw to where it feels right under heavy load/WOT, and then adjust the light load advance cam for most responsiveness/feel/power/clatter at low-part throttle. If you rotate it counterclockwise, you will have more advance down low; rotating it clockwise will retard it sooner.




BTW, exciting news! I've gotten a second set of Stage 1 injector nozzles from Justin; these being slightly refined versions of my other ones. When I get a chance, I'll put them in and see how they do.
The previous ones still work just fine, but better is better!

I'm also planning on purchasing a new turbo from Justin. We went over the specifics, I got to take a ride in the Bronco(Frigging /awesome/), and it looks like I want a Stage 1 with a 1.0 exhaust housing. Now that I know what I need, I just need to come up with the $1,250 to pay for it. I just about bought it yesterday(and put it on a credit card) when I was with Justin, but the less impulsive part of me prevailed.

Ah well, should only be a couple of months. Now I have a goal!


Also, Justin determined that the chuffing noise is probably exhaust manifold gaskets, so I'm going to need new(better) gaskets soon.

 

Yeah I've been goofing around with the light load cam and found some benefit but mostly I'm trying to get my WOT dialed in.

Once I put in the new injectors my top end disappeared. After 2500 rpm there is a serious loss of power compared to my super-old injectors.
My only theory is that this bad Pensacola "rebuilt" pump can't handle the volume at whatever PSI the new injectors pop at.
The trouble is I only have like 40k on it...

If the trim screw affects the advance curve I can't tell-- the changes I've made affect the entire power band uniformly AFAIK.

Nice updates! Let us now how the new ones run!

 

Get yourself a injector tester off Ebay. They are in the $100 range, and then you have a chance to mess with your injectors.
You might well have one or two failing injectors, firing way too soon. And unless those new injectors came from R&D, they may well be cheap rebuilt crap.

You can also then drop the injector pop pressures uniformly(say, try 1400 if needed), to get your high end back until you get a good pump.

 

So...
I figure I ought to post more pictures!

3 weeks ago, I, hauled 6 tons of hay(trailer is 3600lbs+):
I learned then that having the emergency brake on makes a trailer harder to pull... But 248 HP makes it possible.
I also learned that this sort of stress is not good for weak exhaust flanges:

But Justin came through!:

This also happened to be on my birthday, so it ended up being a good birthday present... Even though I totally forgot about my birthday at the time due to worrying about my poor truck!


This got it back on the road and sounding better than ever.
So, Friday I hauled our tractor back to my parents.
Not wanting to waste half a trailer load, I decided to balance the load with a bunch of pallets, too!



Truck performed well... Once it got warmed up, I maintained 55 most of the way. Dropped some speed going up hills, though...


Sunday, I hauled a nice light load, only 3 tons of hay:

Unfortunately, this load should really have been balanced better... I'm guessing I had somewhere around 3K on the tongue.
It kinda pushed my rear down... Still hauled OK, but it wanted to drift a bit. Probably because of all the weight taken off the front tires...
edit:
Note - despite the rear being pushed so far down, the tires were /not/ bulged out excessively. I love these XPS Traction tires.

And it still runs good!
I still want to put my new injector nozzles in it just to see, but the lack of an exhaust leak makes it sound and feel smoother.

 

Doing work!

 

Loving all the information in this thread!

Look forward to seeing what comes out of a mech/elec mix pump for our trucks. In my opinion that is really one of the most needed parts of the equation to finally really take these trucks over the edge.

 

What do you mean by mech/elec pump out of curiosity?

 

Listen, if I was good with Electronics (I feel good about building my own MS2x2.2 unit for my mustang 7 years ago), I would totally figure out a way to control the metering valve with a stepper motor.... It would take all the fueling downfall's out of the question, bottom line.... Rob, please man, beat me to it...

 

It might take the fueling out of the question, but we still have the issues with timing curves and advance and all this other crap.
And then we add the inherent unreliability of computer-controlled bits on top of all that.
Sure, it might be fun to play with, but... I still want a P-pump!

 

That's what I thought you meant. I know the Ds4 pumps have inherent issues but I was looking at adapting that eventually. The easiest way to use it would be to use the stock computer and sensors. The problem is making it spin the correct direction. I'm thinking the optical disk wouldn't function correctly if it was spinning the opposite direction on a Ford. My thinking is that since the timing slot for cylinder one is bigger, that it wouldn't work. So consequently I believe I have to make it turn the direction a Chevy does. The only thing I have come up with thus far is using an idler gear between the cam gear and ip gear and then have new injector lines made to the correct cylinder 360* opposite of our stock pumps. If you guys have any better ideas let me know. Additionally, I have looked at Megasquirt. I think it could work but I might need some of my co-workers to help me with that. Additionally, I do plan on correcting the issue with the PMD so that it doesn't fail like it does. Sorry for the derail.

 

Eh, Justin's thinking something simpler - Take a DB2, remove the governor, punch a small hole in the top of the pump and stick a rod through it with a connector on the end that will grab the metering valve. Hook a stepper motor direct-drive to the top of it, and that's all you need for that.
The only hard parts are getting an O-ring in there somewhere to prevent leakage around your shaft(like the throttle lever has), and some computer bits to drive it. An arduino would be fine; just need some basic inputs(variable resistor for the throttle position, variable reluctance sensor converter and frequency-to-voltage converter for a basic read on the tachometer; all done well under $50 in parts.
Just... quite a bit of work. And then lots of tuning.