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Driver's door panel and liner off... what should I fix and how?

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  #16  
Old 05-21-2015, 04:00 PM
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I have never pulled the latch itself but have removed the door handle a few times. There are several YouTube videos covering the door handle removal so o won't go in to that.

I found this video http://http://youtu.be/dkTucVnr-rc showing the latch simply rotated in to the vacant door handle opening and the door ajar switched removed from the assy.

Hope that helps.
 
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Sorry about that... my signature is incorporated into my user name...

Year = "Y2K" = 2000

Vehicle = "W57" = F-550 4x4 in Ford VIN-speak code (5th, 6th, & 7th characters in VIN)
Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
Y2KW57: JWA is in the glass business, really knows his stuff, and has offered his help to you in this thread. You may want to take him up on it by simply listing your model and year.
.




Oops. Sorry for not being clear enough. I thought I already answered JWA's question yesterday, several posts earlier in this thread, as quoted above. It's a 2000 F550.


Also, I didn't think there were many, if any, differences in the Super Duty doors between models F-250 through F-750 within the model year range 1999 through 2003 covered by this forum.
 
  #18  
Old 05-22-2015, 09:42 PM
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Just thinking outside the box here, on my honda 4wheeler there are some plastic "rivets" that hold all the fender panels together. They are easily removable if needed. May or may not fit the existing holes, may need to drill new holes if thats the case. Just a thought...

While in there, may want to check the door latch mechanism and see if the latch is starting to wear. I have two of my doors that are worn and the door will not close properly and whistles going down the road. Thought it was upper door seal, changed it but still there, thats when i found the worn latch. New latch is sitting on my dash for a two months now, i hope it doesnt sit there 13 yrs like your fix. ;-)

Also, have you done the door lock fix on the motor resistor? Now would be a good a time as any......
 
  #19  
Old 05-25-2015, 11:52 AM
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I took a picture to hopefully make it easier for the next person with this problem to see where the door ajar switch is, which connector it is, where it is located, and what the easiest way to get it out is:
 
  #20  
Old 05-25-2015, 01:35 PM
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Here are a couple more pics for you. Wish I did a full write up.







 
  #21  
Old 05-29-2015, 02:28 AM
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I tested the switch, the connector, and the door wiring, and they all test OK.

Yet, the door ajar light is STILL not working on the driver's door, but is not traceable to any fault within the driver's door.

Yet, the three other doors work fine, so that would appear to rule out the GEM.

Not sure where to go from here. Suggestions?
 
  #22  
Old 05-29-2015, 06:47 AM
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I'm on this big "wiring instead of component" kick...
 
  #23  
Old 05-29-2015, 09:10 AM
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I'll try to get some time look at the schmatics later today and give some feedback.
 
  #24  
Old 05-29-2015, 09:26 AM
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From the schmatics I have,

The Door ajar switch provides a ground when door is open. You should see 12vdc on the yellow/black wire with the switch open and ground on the yellow black wire with switch closed. The Black wire from the door ajar switch should be attached to G204.

I suspect you have a short to ground on the yellow/black wire between the switch and the GEM.
 
  #25  
Old 05-29-2015, 12:39 PM
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Dam Clem, you are ON it! I can't rep you anymore because I just did last week, but here is what I found:

The black wire with yellow trace does not currently have continuity with ground, regardless of switch status, as I did the test directly on the wire.
 
  #26  
Old 05-29-2015, 01:21 PM
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Does the black wire have contunity to ground? It should be directly connected to ground.

Was there any voltage on the BLK/yellow wire?
 
  #27  
Old 05-29-2015, 01:27 PM
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Yes, black wire was solid ground... checked to various ground points.

I didn't check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire. I just checked for change of state, with the switch activated/deactivated, and bypassing the switch with a direct jumper between the black and black/yellow wire.
 
  #28  
Old 05-29-2015, 02:00 PM
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I am not sure where we are at this point.

Is the door ajar not illuminating or illuminating continually?

Or do you have it figured out? Bad switch?broken wire?
 
  #29  
Old 05-29-2015, 02:07 PM
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Light not illuminating, no matter what, from the driver's door. All other doors work as expected.

Driver's door used to work as expected, but that was well over a decade ago. About 14 years ago, it started working intermittently, and about 11 years ago, it stopped working all together. I put off dealing with it until now, and given the difficulty of diagnosing it, have been tempted to button the door back up and live with it another 10 years. Only problem is, in another 10 years, I'll feel too old to do the work needed to fix it, so I'm trying to address it now while I am still able bodied, even if feeble minded.

So no, I don't have it figured out yet. I'll get back in there and check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire.
 
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