Driver's door panel and liner off... what should I fix and how?
#16
I have never pulled the latch itself but have removed the door handle a few times. There are several YouTube videos covering the door handle removal so o won't go in to that.
I found this video http://http://youtu.be/dkTucVnr-rc showing the latch simply rotated in to the vacant door handle opening and the door ajar switched removed from the assy.
Hope that helps.
I found this video http://http://youtu.be/dkTucVnr-rc showing the latch simply rotated in to the vacant door handle opening and the door ajar switched removed from the assy.
Hope that helps.
#17
Oops. Sorry for not being clear enough. I thought I already answered JWA's question yesterday, several posts earlier in this thread, as quoted above. It's a 2000 F550.
Also, I didn't think there were many, if any, differences in the Super Duty doors between models F-250 through F-750 within the model year range 1999 through 2003 covered by this forum.
#18
Just thinking outside the box here, on my honda 4wheeler there are some plastic "rivets" that hold all the fender panels together. They are easily removable if needed. May or may not fit the existing holes, may need to drill new holes if thats the case. Just a thought...
While in there, may want to check the door latch mechanism and see if the latch is starting to wear. I have two of my doors that are worn and the door will not close properly and whistles going down the road. Thought it was upper door seal, changed it but still there, thats when i found the worn latch. New latch is sitting on my dash for a two months now, i hope it doesnt sit there 13 yrs like your fix. ;-)
Also, have you done the door lock fix on the motor resistor? Now would be a good a time as any......
While in there, may want to check the door latch mechanism and see if the latch is starting to wear. I have two of my doors that are worn and the door will not close properly and whistles going down the road. Thought it was upper door seal, changed it but still there, thats when i found the worn latch. New latch is sitting on my dash for a two months now, i hope it doesnt sit there 13 yrs like your fix. ;-)
Also, have you done the door lock fix on the motor resistor? Now would be a good a time as any......
#19
#21
I tested the switch, the connector, and the door wiring, and they all test OK.
Yet, the door ajar light is STILL not working on the driver's door, but is not traceable to any fault within the driver's door.
Yet, the three other doors work fine, so that would appear to rule out the GEM.
Not sure where to go from here. Suggestions?
Yet, the door ajar light is STILL not working on the driver's door, but is not traceable to any fault within the driver's door.
Yet, the three other doors work fine, so that would appear to rule out the GEM.
Not sure where to go from here. Suggestions?
#24
From the schmatics I have,
The Door ajar switch provides a ground when door is open. You should see 12vdc on the yellow/black wire with the switch open and ground on the yellow black wire with switch closed. The Black wire from the door ajar switch should be attached to G204.
I suspect you have a short to ground on the yellow/black wire between the switch and the GEM.
The Door ajar switch provides a ground when door is open. You should see 12vdc on the yellow/black wire with the switch open and ground on the yellow black wire with switch closed. The Black wire from the door ajar switch should be attached to G204.
I suspect you have a short to ground on the yellow/black wire between the switch and the GEM.
#25
#27
Yes, black wire was solid ground... checked to various ground points.
I didn't check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire. I just checked for change of state, with the switch activated/deactivated, and bypassing the switch with a direct jumper between the black and black/yellow wire.
I didn't check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire. I just checked for change of state, with the switch activated/deactivated, and bypassing the switch with a direct jumper between the black and black/yellow wire.
#29
Light not illuminating, no matter what, from the driver's door. All other doors work as expected.
Driver's door used to work as expected, but that was well over a decade ago. About 14 years ago, it started working intermittently, and about 11 years ago, it stopped working all together. I put off dealing with it until now, and given the difficulty of diagnosing it, have been tempted to button the door back up and live with it another 10 years. Only problem is, in another 10 years, I'll feel too old to do the work needed to fix it, so I'm trying to address it now while I am still able bodied, even if feeble minded.
So no, I don't have it figured out yet. I'll get back in there and check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire.
Driver's door used to work as expected, but that was well over a decade ago. About 14 years ago, it started working intermittently, and about 11 years ago, it stopped working all together. I put off dealing with it until now, and given the difficulty of diagnosing it, have been tempted to button the door back up and live with it another 10 years. Only problem is, in another 10 years, I'll feel too old to do the work needed to fix it, so I'm trying to address it now while I am still able bodied, even if feeble minded.
So no, I don't have it figured out yet. I'll get back in there and check for any voltage on the black and yellow wire.
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