What would be better. Evidently aluminum wheel get rusted to steel drum. So anti seize or grease. Then there is this line of thinking -
Also, when you lubricate the wheel or hub face, I'd think you are changing the clamping/joint characteristics which are key design elements of the assembly. I'd have to consult with our drive train engineers, but I'd doubt the studs are there to take the whole rotational (shear?) load imposed by the drive torque. A lot of that ability is due to the clamp load and friction between the hub face and wheel face. Putting grease or other stuff in there will certainly reduce that friction, it would seem.

 

I had the same problem after my first winter. I usually rotate my own tires, but could not pull the wheels off the rotors because of rust the first time I tried that on my 2001 F150. I took it to a shop, the mechanic crawled underneath the truck (only slightly raised on the lifts) braced himself on the underframe and kicked at the tires until the rust weld was broken & the wheels popped off.
I used a thin coating of antiseize between the aluminum rims and where they pressed against the rotors, torqued the lug nuts as recommended. Wheels are still easy to remove 70,000 miles later and they haven't fallen off yet.

 

during each roto and rebal along with your oil change, it is good to get all that excess dirt and metal shavings off the face of the wheel where it hits the hub, a little bit of antiseaze never hurts. Each time i rotate i just wire brush both the faces of the wheel and hub and have not had any problems yet.

I have seen the aluminum face start to peel off and get indents into the wheel as well if your wheel is that bad depending on how deep the holes are then i would replace it but most of the time its just the top coating of whats on the wheel. As long as there is a flat even surface there shouldnt be any problems.

 

I use anti seize on that spot. It works quite well. Never used it personally on your truck style but imports.

 

the "rust stuck" point is actually on the center ID of the wheel where it pilots over the drum flange, not on the flat surface that mate together. Wire brush all good and put a thin coat of antisieze on that pilot area....... getting it on the back face does not hurt and does keep corrosion down.. I have also used a flapper wheel to do the inside ID of the aluminum rim to get "extra" clean. ........ your only talking 1-2 thousands.

 

wire brush it clean, and apply anti-seize. grease will run, especially as your brakes get hot.