Vacuum in HG?
#1
Vacuum in HG?
Can someone tell me what the gauge on my 77 F600 that reads "vacuum in HG" is for and what it is telling me? I am thinking it has something to do with the OEM governor? I removed the governor/spacer under the carb. and replaced it with a solid spacer. The truck runs great but the red light on the aforementioned gauge comes on under high RPM.
#2
That just means that the gauge is reading in inches of mercury instead of water column. Hg is mercury in the periodic table of elements. If the gauge was calibrated for water it would read "Vacuum WC". Also, at high r/m there is little, if any, vacuum to measure upstream of the venturi because the throttle plate in the carburetor is open pretty wide.
#4
Thanks, so it is nothing to be concerned with then right? Exactly what purpose does it serve and why is the gauge even there at all? If the motor is lugging then the driver would know just like any other vehicle. With the red light it would seem logical that it was supposed to serve as some type of warning light that would require corrective action from the drivers part. Seems very odd to me.
#5
Vacuum gauges were fairly common in prior years, especially for those who wanted to maximize fuel economy.
http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...ve/answer/3672
Consider it a "cool feature".
wrong info removed
See post 7, while vacuum gauges can be used for fuel economy, this is a brake vacuum gauge, as explained below.
http://www.summitracing.com/expertad...ve/answer/3672
Consider it a "cool feature".
wrong info removed
See post 7, while vacuum gauges can be used for fuel economy, this is a brake vacuum gauge, as explained below.
Last edited by 85e150; 04-12-2015 at 11:46 PM. Reason: see post 7 and on.
#6
Thanks, so it is nothing to be concerned with then right? Exactly what purpose does it serve and why is the gauge even there at all? If the motor is lugging then the driver would know just like any other vehicle. With the red light it would seem logical that it was supposed to serve as some type of warning light that would require corrective action from the drivers part. Seems very odd to me.
.
#7
That gauge is there to let you know that you have sufficient vacuum for the brakes to work properly.
Not anything to do with the engine lugging, at least how Ford installed the OEM factory gauge on hydraulic braked trucks. Insufficient vacuum will cause the brake booster to NOT function properly. And this is important to proper braking.
That is why the gauge has a RED light that comes on, normal vacuum gauges DO NOT have this feature, when that red light is on you DO NOT have sufficient vacuum in the braking system and the truck should NOT be driven until such time as the vacuum is back to the proper level.
FYI - This gauge is hooked up from the factory to the brake booster vacuum system, NOT the intake manifold. Which is why it does not function like a aftermarket vacuum gauge which is hooked to the intake manifold and reads direct intake manifold vacuum (Brake booster vacuum is protected by a one way check valve)
All this is covered in the factory owners manual, which come up from time to time on Ebay for very little money, and just like the factory service manuals, are a invaluable source of information for questions just like this.
Aftermarket vacuum gauges that are added on, are for engine lugging indication as mentioned, and are hooked directly to the intake manifold, and will go up and down rapidly if the throttle is stabbed. Your gauge does not do that, nor should it! At least as how it came from the factory.
This is a safety feature first and foremost!
David
Not anything to do with the engine lugging, at least how Ford installed the OEM factory gauge on hydraulic braked trucks. Insufficient vacuum will cause the brake booster to NOT function properly. And this is important to proper braking.
That is why the gauge has a RED light that comes on, normal vacuum gauges DO NOT have this feature, when that red light is on you DO NOT have sufficient vacuum in the braking system and the truck should NOT be driven until such time as the vacuum is back to the proper level.
FYI - This gauge is hooked up from the factory to the brake booster vacuum system, NOT the intake manifold. Which is why it does not function like a aftermarket vacuum gauge which is hooked to the intake manifold and reads direct intake manifold vacuum (Brake booster vacuum is protected by a one way check valve)
All this is covered in the factory owners manual, which come up from time to time on Ebay for very little money, and just like the factory service manuals, are a invaluable source of information for questions just like this.
Aftermarket vacuum gauges that are added on, are for engine lugging indication as mentioned, and are hooked directly to the intake manifold, and will go up and down rapidly if the throttle is stabbed. Your gauge does not do that, nor should it! At least as how it came from the factory.
This is a safety feature first and foremost!
David
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#8
That gauge is there to let you know that you have sufficient vacuum for the brakes to work properly.
Not anything to do with the engine lugging, at least how Ford installed the OEM factory gauge on hydraulic braked trucks. Insufficient vacuum will cause the brake booster to NOT function properly. And this is important to proper braking.
That is why the gauge has a RED light that comes on, normal vacuum gauges DO NOT have this feature, when that red light is on you DO NOT have sufficient vacuum in the braking system and the truck should NOT be driven until such time as the vacuum is back to the proper level.
FYI - This gauge is hooked up from the factory to the brake booster vacuum system, NOT the intake manifold. Which is why it does not function like a aftermarket vacuum gauge which is hooked to the intake manifold and reads direct intake manifold vacuum (Brake booster vacuum is protected by a one way check valve)
All this is covered in the factory owners manual, which come up from time to time on Ebay for very little money, and just like the factory service manuals, are a invaluable source of information for questions just like this.
Aftermarket vacuum gauges that are added on, are for engine lugging indication as mentioned, and are hooked directly to the intake manifold, and will go up and down rapidly if the throttle is stabbed. Your gauge does not do that, nor should it! At least as how it came from the factory.
This is a safety feature first and foremost!
David
Not anything to do with the engine lugging, at least how Ford installed the OEM factory gauge on hydraulic braked trucks. Insufficient vacuum will cause the brake booster to NOT function properly. And this is important to proper braking.
That is why the gauge has a RED light that comes on, normal vacuum gauges DO NOT have this feature, when that red light is on you DO NOT have sufficient vacuum in the braking system and the truck should NOT be driven until such time as the vacuum is back to the proper level.
FYI - This gauge is hooked up from the factory to the brake booster vacuum system, NOT the intake manifold. Which is why it does not function like a aftermarket vacuum gauge which is hooked to the intake manifold and reads direct intake manifold vacuum (Brake booster vacuum is protected by a one way check valve)
All this is covered in the factory owners manual, which come up from time to time on Ebay for very little money, and just like the factory service manuals, are a invaluable source of information for questions just like this.
Aftermarket vacuum gauges that are added on, are for engine lugging indication as mentioned, and are hooked directly to the intake manifold, and will go up and down rapidly if the throttle is stabbed. Your gauge does not do that, nor should it! At least as how it came from the factory.
This is a safety feature first and foremost!
David
#9
OP can trace out where the vac gauge is sourced. Our '58 F600 and the '65ish C600 we had did not have vacuum gauges. Vacuum wipers and vacuum 2 speeds were long gone in '58; op has a '77.
OP has brake questions, so it would really be a good idea to trace it down--if it's brakes, best get that figured out.
OP has brake questions, so it would really be a good idea to trace it down--if it's brakes, best get that figured out.
#11
To clarify, yes all the vacuum comes from the intake manifold, BUT unlike a regular vacuum gauge, the factory medium / large truck vacuum gauge sources its vacuum from the other side of the one way check valve, therefore it does not fluctuate up and down with the cracking of the throttle plates like a vacuum gauge does that is hooked directly to the intake manifold without a one way check valve. That was what I was trying to explain, and frankly needed to add more words to make it clear. I have never seen one of these trucks with a separate vacuum pump btw.
The function of this vacuum gauge is clearly listed in my 1970 and 1975 medium duty truck owners manuals. Not sure it was something that was done in the 50's though.
Vacuum wipers traditionally did NOT have a one way check valve nor reservoirs, so they would slow down / stop as intake manifold vacuum was reduced with higher throttle opening. Different system, cannot be compared to these brake systems.
Bill says it best - this is a BRAKE vacuum gauge, so it is not a intake manifold vacuum gauge. Hopefully that clears up the intended function.
David
The function of this vacuum gauge is clearly listed in my 1970 and 1975 medium duty truck owners manuals. Not sure it was something that was done in the 50's though.
Vacuum wipers traditionally did NOT have a one way check valve nor reservoirs, so they would slow down / stop as intake manifold vacuum was reduced with higher throttle opening. Different system, cannot be compared to these brake systems.
Bill says it best - this is a BRAKE vacuum gauge, so it is not a intake manifold vacuum gauge. Hopefully that clears up the intended function.
David
#13
OP can trace out where the vac gauge is sourced. Our '58 F600 and the '65ish C600 we had did not have vacuum gauges. Vacuum wipers and vacuum 2 speeds were long gone in '58; op has a '77.
OP has brake questions, so it would really be a good idea to trace it down--if it's brakes, best get that figured out.
OP has brake questions, so it would really be a good idea to trace it down--if it's brakes, best get that figured out.
I agree, and stand corrected. I'm looking at it from a '50's perspective, and it's given me some insight into upgrading my system.
Thanks.
.
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