Well I guess it's time for FICM, Went to start the truck 2 mornings ago not plugged in, and FICM volts were 35... After truck started to warm up they came back to 48, but I realize its time to visit Ed at FICM repair.. I'm thinking of going ahead and getting a 190amp DC alternator from him also.. What do you all think? Is 190amp big enough.. I don't run anything on the truck, IE Stereo's and such..

 

A 190 will do you and maybe over kill but it won't hurt either. Get the Atlas 40 tune as well. I love the Atlas 40 and may not ever put my programmer back in again. B.

 

Can you really tell a big difference in the atlas 40? I have been trying to figure out which program would suit me.. I do haul a 10,000 lbs camper in the summer..

 

Yes you can. But you might want to do the Atlas 80 AND remove your SCT tuner. Talk to Ed at ficm repair. Those flash programmers work their majic via timing strategies which can lead to higher combustion temps and pressures contributing to head gasket failure as I under stand it. B.

 

Yep im going to have to give him a call this week.. I hope after getting FICM, alternator, and batteries, along with the long list of work Ive already had done to the truck I will be good to go for a very long time...

 

Ok now I'm leaning towards the DC Power 185 alternator, would I have to replace the wiring also? Or would the stock wiring be good enough?

 

Here is what I understand. While the glow plug circuit is running when u first start the engine there is no charging voltage to the batteries. So all of your trucks electrical system is drawing power from the batteries all the while the batteries are not getting anything from the alternator. As I understand it.

So, you really need to run a heavy gauge cable directly FROM your alternator to your passenger battery WITH a fuse as close to the alternator as possible. Most guys also run a cable to the driverside battery as well. That way your batts and electrical system is getting 14ish volts right after starting regardless of what the GP circuit is doing. B.

 

I'd be interested to hear Ed's opinion of the 185 vs the 190, and doing wiring before, concurrently, or after the alternator upgrade.

 

Thanks, that's kinda what I figured... Just wondering how quickly I would have to do this, or if maybe it could wait a little longer on the cables.. My truck is out of service as we speak, because as soon as I seen 35 volts, I put it in the garage..

 

Yep.. I'm hoping he will see this tread, and hopefully reply with what he would recommend .. I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, but if the new cables are not really needed, then I'd rather save the 110.00..

 

Coming from a car audio background...
YES you should upgrade your battery wires. Even with a stock alternator upgrading wires can help your voltage.
I'd do atleast 4 gauge, 1/0 is best but overkill.

Fusing towards the alternator side is pointless, or fusing at all.
Both sides are supplying power, so if that wire gets crushed while the truck is running it'll still melt that wire-either using battery power or alternator power, it'll still melt.

If you upgrade your power wires-upgrade your grounds!!
I would do 4g from alt, to both batteries +, 4g between each battery, 4g from each battery negative to chassis, and 4g from that same chassis ground to the body.
Grind body and chassis down to bare clean metal.

 

And on the ground spots, use dielectric grease to stop corrosion so you keep good contact. And tape a penny to each battery so that the penny corrodes and not your new battery cables.

 

You understand incorrectly.

Josh