Front wheel hub assembly
#1
#4
#5
Yes, 69 f-100. Not sure the condition of the hubs, I was just repeating what the mechanic told me on the phone. Hard to believe they got that bad so quick, it has been a daily driver and no real problems. Could you direct me to a thread where it explains the disc swap. I am on a fairly tight budget...
#6
Thank Jared.
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</td><td width="100%"> </td><td nowrap="nowrap" valign="top">Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Washington
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</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- / user info --> </td></tr><tr><td class="alt1" id="td_post_3225180"><!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- icon and title --> Disk brakes
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> 2wd:
The easiest way to get disk brakes is to use a 73-79 donor truck. Take the I-beams and spindles, and the proportioning valve. It is best to have new kingpins installed along with new pivot bushings, to prevent any problems down the road. You will also need rotors, calipers, and brake hoses for the year of the donor truck.
Jack the front of the truck up and support the frame on jackstands. Remove the tires, tie rod ends, brake hoses, radius arm bolts, shocks, and pivot bolts in that order. You probably will need to pry the end of the I-beam out of the frame, they tend to stick a bit. The install of the new parts is the reverse of the removal. To install the new proportioning valve, simply remove the brake lines from the old unit, unplug it, unbolt from the frame, then bolt the new one on and hook it up. The brake lines may be rusted to the nuts, so you probably should replace them at this time also.
An alternative method is listed here in the articles.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...rd_Trucks.html
For 4x4 trucks, there are a few different ways to go. For F-100 trucks, you can use GM D44 outers, rotors, and calipers.
I need more info for the F-250 and F-350 trucks, please PM me any info you may have on this.
<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________
Jared
Real trucks have the key on the left
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<!-- status icon and date --> 12-18-2005, 09:49 PM <!-- / status icon and date -->
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Super Moderator
</td><td width="100%"> </td><td nowrap="nowrap" valign="top">Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Washington
Posts: 16,793
</td></tr></tbody></table><!-- / user info --> </td></tr><tr><td class="alt1" id="td_post_3225180"><!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- icon and title --> Disk brakes
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> 2wd:
The easiest way to get disk brakes is to use a 73-79 donor truck. Take the I-beams and spindles, and the proportioning valve. It is best to have new kingpins installed along with new pivot bushings, to prevent any problems down the road. You will also need rotors, calipers, and brake hoses for the year of the donor truck.
Jack the front of the truck up and support the frame on jackstands. Remove the tires, tie rod ends, brake hoses, radius arm bolts, shocks, and pivot bolts in that order. You probably will need to pry the end of the I-beam out of the frame, they tend to stick a bit. The install of the new parts is the reverse of the removal. To install the new proportioning valve, simply remove the brake lines from the old unit, unplug it, unbolt from the frame, then bolt the new one on and hook it up. The brake lines may be rusted to the nuts, so you probably should replace them at this time also.
An alternative method is listed here in the articles.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...rd_Trucks.html
For 4x4 trucks, there are a few different ways to go. For F-100 trucks, you can use GM D44 outers, rotors, and calipers.
I need more info for the F-250 and F-350 trucks, please PM me any info you may have on this.
<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________
Jared
Real trucks have the key on the left
</td></tr></tbody></table>
#7
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#8
Thanks for the pointers and quick response, The truck is 2wd, I found a couple good threads HIO posted some time back on the conversion. I think I may try to find a hub to replace for now, if anyone knows of a place let me know. I am currently checking local JY here in South Arkansas but no luck yet.
#9
Thanks for the pointers and quick response, The truck is 2wd, I found a couple good threads HIO posted some time back on the conversion. I think I may try to find a hub to replace for now, if anyone knows of a place let me know. I am currently checking local JY here in South Arkansas but no luck yet.
#10
The front wheel bearings have to be packed with grease every so often. If not performed, the grease will turn to the consistency of water, work its way past the seal and run out of the hub.
When this occurs, it won't be too long before the wheel bearing races will overheat, spin in the hubs, and the bearings themselves self destruct.
*Ford only sold the hub & drum as an assembly, these parts were not available by themselves.
#12
C8TZ-1102-E .. Hub & Drum Assembly ~ R/L is the same / Obsolete
Applications: 1968/72 F100 2WD with 11" x 3" front brakes (1967 F100's have 11" x 2" front brakes).
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 1 = 800-476-9653.
No Ford dealer, no other obsolete parts vendor has any.
Applications: 1968/72 F100 2WD with 11" x 3" front brakes (1967 F100's have 11" x 2" front brakes).
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 1 = 800-476-9653.
No Ford dealer, no other obsolete parts vendor has any.
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