dash repair suggestions with pics
#1
#2
You'll likely need a plastic glue, as I don't think fiberglass resin or JB weld will hold very well. You need something to melt into the plastic. Maybe some 2 part epoxy from parts store that is made for plastic?
Put a piece of tape over the front of the crack/hole(the larger hole might need some kind of support to keep it from sagging). Put the glue on the back and let it set. Might not have the perfect grain finish, but won't have a hole.
For some added strength, I would get a piece of plastic or thin metal and press that into the glue on the back. Something to help support where it is cracked on the edge.
Put a piece of tape over the front of the crack/hole(the larger hole might need some kind of support to keep it from sagging). Put the glue on the back and let it set. Might not have the perfect grain finish, but won't have a hole.
For some added strength, I would get a piece of plastic or thin metal and press that into the glue on the back. Something to help support where it is cracked on the edge.
#4
With those chunks taken out, it may be better Like Brad said to replace it. But finding a 87 to 91 dash without dry rot cracks, is not likely.
As for the cracks, drill a hole right at the crack point, that will releave stress and keep the cracks from growing. Heat welding plastic is best way to fix those cracks. JB weld did not last the last time I tried it. I never tried fiberglass/rosin yet....
As for the cracks, drill a hole right at the crack point, that will releave stress and keep the cracks from growing. Heat welding plastic is best way to fix those cracks. JB weld did not last the last time I tried it. I never tried fiberglass/rosin yet....
#5
I would suggest the use of a two-layer fiberglass mat patch soaked in epoxy. Apply this to the back side of the dash so it covers the cracks and holes (tape over the holes to keep the epoxy from flowing out).
One key to success is to rough up the back side where the patch will go with some 60 grit or so to give it some tooth. The drilling is not a bad idea either. If you do it in a well planned fashion it will probably work fine. A lot of good practices can be researched at epoxyworks. Check out the cracked plastic canoe they repaired for some tips. Another good idea is to grind a vee shape on the back of the crack to increase the surface area like when you weld two plates together. Then you can carefully work the protruding epoxy down level with a scraper like a razor blade. Then dye it.
One key to success is to rough up the back side where the patch will go with some 60 grit or so to give it some tooth. The drilling is not a bad idea either. If you do it in a well planned fashion it will probably work fine. A lot of good practices can be researched at epoxyworks. Check out the cracked plastic canoe they repaired for some tips. Another good idea is to grind a vee shape on the back of the crack to increase the surface area like when you weld two plates together. Then you can carefully work the protruding epoxy down level with a scraper like a razor blade. Then dye it.
#7
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#10
i pulled a great condition blue dash out of a 88 xlt lariat today at the junkyard. only problem is i need it to be brown. so i'm going attempt to dye it brown tomorrow with the paint i've been saving. wish me luck. if this doesn't work i guess i'm going to have to wait patiently until a brown dash shows up at the local yard which will probably take months.
#11
Dont try and dye it, clean the surface well on the blue dash and spray it. Those Krylon paint and primer in one are very durable and specify they are made to go on plastic and flexible surfaces. I have used them on a few dashes and interior projects with great durabilty and success. I think Lowes or and Home Depot carry it, been a while... A few light, wet coats and you will be good to go. Just try to match up the color as best you can, shouldnt be too hard...
#12
2X on cleaning really good!! Scrub it with Dawn dish soap and a soft kuckle brush, rinse, let dry over a day.
I used the Krylon fusion plastic paint on my 89 dash and it has held up really good over 2 years now.
Once you used that Krylon paint, do not use another brand, I found out the hard way when I used krylon gray for my 85 Caravelle, did not like the color match. I found a better color match with a automotive plastic paint from Advance auto parts(forgot brand). When I recleaned the plastic parts, and resprayed, the paint orange pealed badly!!! Not fun sanding fragile inside trim plastic to rid the peal and Krylon paint......
I used the Krylon fusion plastic paint on my 89 dash and it has held up really good over 2 years now.
Once you used that Krylon paint, do not use another brand, I found out the hard way when I used krylon gray for my 85 Caravelle, did not like the color match. I found a better color match with a automotive plastic paint from Advance auto parts(forgot brand). When I recleaned the plastic parts, and resprayed, the paint orange pealed badly!!! Not fun sanding fragile inside trim plastic to rid the peal and Krylon paint......
#13
thanks for the advice guys. cleaning it now. i've got to paint it today. i can't wait 24 hours. me and my buddy are going to use 1 heat gun a piece and try to dry it out a little faster. we will be gentle though. i know it can crack if the temps change too fast.
i use sem dye once on a transam i had. it came out terrible. peeled despite intense paint prep. i used 2x rust. to restore my heater box on my 72 f100 and it came out fantastic. don't know why this didn't cross my mind for this project.
i'll put up some pics. thanks!!
i use sem dye once on a transam i had. it came out terrible. peeled despite intense paint prep. i used 2x rust. to restore my heater box on my 72 f100 and it came out fantastic. don't know why this didn't cross my mind for this project.
i'll put up some pics. thanks!!
#14
I had these guys rebuild a dash for one of my Fairlanes ..........this video will give you an idea how to DIY:
Just Dashes Production Center: Restoration Video
Just Dashes Production Center: Restoration Video
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