I just bought a 2003 6.0. Fairly new, and could use some experienced advice on a few things.

The unit has an EGR delete, new ficram, batteries, 260 0 00 kms. I've had it less than a week.

I have oil in the coolant. The degas bottle spews coolant. I have replaced the cap, but it still seems to blow out of it. The coolant in the degas is similar to the constistancy of a milkshake (foamy). Dash gauges seem stable ( oil and coolant)

After doing some research on here, I first thought that it was simply the all to common oil cooler issue. I thought I would replace the oil cooler, rad, all hoses and add a coolant filtration system. After further reading on various sites, posts ect, I'm not to sure if this is the root cause?

Does the EGR delete cause the pressure build up? Am I likely to have injector and head problems in the future? Is it best to simply pull the motor and throw a new one in? Dump the truck totally?

Your thoughts on this post?

 

Oil Cooler ruptured.

Replace it and run a Simple Green coolant flush to rid the block of the oil contamination.

Josh

 

Are you sure it's oil in the coolant? You can also get fuel in your coolant, also gets foamy and white. Different problems.

 

It's either the oil cooler ruptured or the transmission cooler ruptured.

Josh

 

Hmm.

Well, I guess your post has essentially 5 questions in it.
Depends on your point of view I suppose....... In modern diesels, (cooled) EGR reduces oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust......but has a LOT of problems in implementation in a 6.0L engine especially if the EGR cooler fails, plus the soot in the intake, sticky EGR valves , etc...

Maybe, but since your EGR cooler is missing, it won't be the cause.....

No. but a leaking oil cooler can because the oil pressure is much higher than coolant pressure........and since you have a 16PSI cap, once the coolant pressure exceeds 16psi, it'll just vent coolant/oil emulsion......

too early to tell. If it's just a leaking oil cooler, replace it first unless there's other things wrong with the engine that require replacement......

I wouldn't make that decision until I knew more about the engine problems.....

my first guess is engine oil (cooler leak) but before you jump to any conclusions, you need to positively identify what is actually leaking into the coolant. (engine oil, trans oil or fuel)


I would follow Josh's suggestion of replacing the oil cooler and doing the simple green (or other detergent) flush to clear the oil from the entire cooling system.

Regards,


Rick

 

Thank you so much everyone for the detailed help. I'll order an OEM oil cooler, radiator, hoses and such, and start pulling wrenches.

Thanks again

 

Make sure it's OIL first. If you have a cracked injector cup it will put fuel in the coolant because of the fuel pressure is substantially higher than coolant pressure. I would put a pressure gauge inline on the small hose from the top of the radiator to the reservoir. Then, with the engine warmed up to operating temperature but turned OFF (not running), activate the fuel pump while watching the gauge. This can be done by cycling the key on/off listening to the pump running. If the gauge climbs, it's obviously fuel being pushed into the coolant system.

Post your findings.

 

O.k. will do. Thank you very much

 

My experience with testing for fuel/coolant contamination (which I doubt that is this issue) is to pull the block drains and run the fuel pump. The leak would take hours to notice using degas pressure. If its fuel in coolant,, it will flow (drip actually)out of the block drain associated with the suspect head. However,, in this instance,, I have tried all different uses of detergents and cleaners. The BEST way to remove "operation milkshake" (which is what we dubbed it) is to drain both block drains,, and fill the coolant system with DIESEL!!! Mark it down,, I'm the first to ever mention it on here,, but I have done it numerous times and it will remove it ALL on the first flush. Just get the fuel out very quickly after it gets to temp ( maybe 20 min run time). Do not call it a night until getting the diesel out tho. I start with diesel,, then dishsoap (foamy as heck),, then cascade. I have kept the radiators n hoses on these repairs (these customers always get new ones) because there are always certain customers that simply cannot afford a new rad, or coolant y pipe or something so I give them those as a bit of charity. Hopefully I didn't confuse anyone with this long paragraph. Lol.

 

A new OEM radiator can be bought for about $240 + shipping......Makes you wonder how some those people can afford to even fill up the fuel tank..........let alone own any modern diesel truck!

You are truly a "top-tier" service guy!!


//

 

Thank you for the kind words!!!! Don't get me wrong,, I like to help,,, but I also like to eat as well (my phrase for getting paid). Lol.

 

And most of the time a new radiator is getting stacked on top thousand in repairs, I can see where some people would want to save when they can. And it's nice to have someone that helps them do that.

 

Great advice on the flush. Thank you!

I'm a little confused on the lower portion of the contents. Are you suggesting that with your style of flush, a new rad, hoses ect is not necessary? Or were you stating that the people that opt not to end up having to replace it anyways in the future?

Cheers

Ryan

 

I always suggest replacing with this type of contamination. However,, they normally let me keep the parts to hold on to in case someone is in desperate need of it.