Howdy - New member here but definitely not new to Ford trucks. Been drivin' Fords since mid 1950's & Ford trucks since early 1970's. I have a 1985 F-250 XL Diesel 'Explorer' w/6.9 International Diesel. It's a single cab, long bed w/C-6 auto trans & 8600GVW that I bought new in May 1985. Basically a 3/4 ton truck on a 1 ton chassis.

Current odometer reading is just over 166K miles, 90% of which was driven during its first dozen years. Last few years it has been driven less & less, probably averaging under 1K miles per year. I've 'hauled' large 'cabover' campers as well as cab high shells. Around 1989 I bought what was at that time one of the largest cabovers, a 12 1/2' Real Lite with side entry door. Truck handled it well but I added Air Lift air bags for sway stability that really helped a lot. We 'did' the Alaska Highway in 1993 with that rig, towing a small Toyota 4WD pickup. Averaged just over 13mpg for the entire 2 1/2 month trip.

In 1992, before the Alaska trip I ordered & had installed a 'Banks Power Pack' which consisted of 3" exhaust/tail pipes, Glass pack muffler, a Pyrometer to monitor exhaust temp, & a K&N Air Filter system which included a new 'venturi' style intake. I didn't notice any significant increase in fuel efficiency but it didn't smoke as much as previously at elevation, & seemed to 'not work as hard' on steep climbs. The 'venturi' design of the K&N air breather system includes a new cast aluminum air filter 'cover' that has a cone shaped depression in the center which allows it to 'collect' water during heavy rains. Over the years the weather seal on my fire wall has deteriorated to the point that it allows water to leak into the engine compartment & collect in the depression of the K&N filter cover. I've devised a 'make-do' cover from a 13 1/2" 'flimsy' pizza pan, duct taped over the heavy, cast aluminum K&N cover. It has worked after a fashion but twice since I've been using it, enough water collected in the depression to affect the engine (either it wouldn't start at all or would run with considerable white smoke from the exhaust). Latest episode I just solved. The 'pizza pan' had apparently developed a leak, allowing the depression to fill with water which somehow migrated into the intake & the truck wouldn't start. I checked everything I could think of including fuel flow throughout the system, the fuel shut off solenoid, & finally, upon inspection, found the water in the filter cover. I emptied the water, serviced the K&N filter & the truck started immediately, running as smooth as ever. I'm currently searching for some kind of 'durable' cover to replace the flimsy 'pizza pan' arrangement I've used. This truck has from purchase, always been easy starting. When weather is warm, or in cold weather when I used the 'block heater', after the glow plugs cycle, when you engage the starter, you can't turn loose of the key fast enough for it not to start. Any time it doesn't start on the first 'crank or two' you almost know 'it ain't gonna start'.

My question for members here - has anyone had any experience with the Banks Power Pack or the K&N filter housing collecting water. I don't know if I can get new weather stripping for the hood/firewall joint. It appears tight tho well worn, but leaks water copiously during heavy rain or in a car wash. I'd like to find something more durable than the pizza pan arrangement I've been using.

TIA for any help/info.

 

I would search lmc truck. I would be willing to bet that they sell a new hood/cowl seal. Be ssn easier fix than trying to rig something over your air filter lid

 

1A Auto

the part number from LMC truck is 41-157 Link

 

Thanks fordtruckman838 (& Vandy7.3). I'd already checked with LMR Truck & decided to order the new hood/cowl seal. It's under $30 & should definitely make a difference. Added are pix of the Banks air filter lid showing the deep depression which holds water (& apparently allows a little to leak into the intake . There's a rubberized gasket/seal at the bottom of the lid which should seal out any moisture. I noted however that the gasket is held in place by a steel washer, & the lid is held in place by a machine bolt with a steel washer making contact with the steel washer which helps hold the rubber gasket/seal in place. Apparently the steel-on-steel allows some water to seep through. I added a tight fitting, 1/8" thick rubber washer under the steel washer on the bolt to hopefully prevent water migration into the intake. I'm not 100% certain that I trust a new hood/cowl seal will prevent all water getting into the air filter lid. I still think banks should have designed that part with some kind of tight fitting 'top' that would prevent water accumulation. I'm hopeful that a new hood/cowl seal along with the rubber washer on the lid mounting bolt will be enough to eliminate any water leak into the engine.

Here's the 'offending' depression in the filter lid -


As can be seen here, my 29 year old hood/cowl seal is in sad shape -

 

Something like the pizza pan cover would be your best option, plus make sure the bolt in the center has a good rubber gasket.
You may be able to drill a hole in the lid and the lower enclosure to fit a piece of fuel hose, passing the water straight through the two into the valley area. Just make sure it's a good tight fit and that it's all properly aligned.
I have one of these setups sitting, it didn't clear the firewall/cowling on my 69, plus I was concerned about the potential for water in the engine.

 

I really appreciate the fast response and advice offered. I've ordered a new hood to cowl seal from LMC Truck. Should be here in about a week. Today I added the rubber washer to the filter cover hold-down bolt. Hopefully that will prevent water from entering the intake even if some should collect in the lid depression. I'm still gonna try to devise some kind of easily removable cover that will 'turn water'. Meanwhile, I have a piece of heavy duty plastic covering the entire rear of the engine compartment. We've rain forecast for the weekend & I surely don't want any more water in the filter cover. My son & my best friend are also looking for a suitable 'part' to use for a cover. It'll hafta be something 'low' as there's only about an inch clearance between the filter lid & the 'overhang' of the firewall at the rear. Really don't want to go back to the 'duct tape' method but it worked well with the flimsy 'pizza pan' for near 20yrs until the pizza pan 'failed' recently. Was kind of a bear taking it off to service the K&N filter tho . I'm sure we'll figure out something . I have my old 'pop-up cabover' camper mounted & want to take it to deer camp in November. This was camp in 2012 -

 

Nice looking Pickup!

 

Hi All - Received the hood to cowl seal from LMC Truck today. The original is/was some kind of plastic molded over a metal insert that fastened to the cowl/firewall. The replacement appears to be some sort of molded, hard plastic with some foam weather stripping along the bottom front & a flexible, 'rubberized' lip at top. It's somewhat wider vertically than the original but I was able to get it fitted in proper location. Think I'll hafta locate some screws that are nominally larger & slightly longer. The new seal has more 'stand-off' than the original & in order to fasten it properly with the shorter screws I had to tighten 'em up enough that it ended up with a slight bow in a couple of places. I think longer screws will allow me to tighten 'em up just enough that it fits snug but with no linear distortion. I still ain't completely confident that it'll 'turn water' under all circumstances so I 'taped' one of the flimsy pizza pans over the depression in the filter cover until I see whether or not any water is getting under/around the new seal... Thanks again to the guys who directed me to LMC Truck.

Pix of the new seal installed -