Problems with oil bath air filters
#1
Problems with oil bath air filters
So my 66 Ford F100 has been running great. Haven't had any issues until today. I have driven it about 100 miles and today I go to take it for a bath at the car wash and head to autozone to return an unused part, when in the parking lot I couldn't get it started. It would crank good but wouldn't start. I went inside to talk with someone and an older guy came out seem like he knew his stuff and said it was the oil in the filter, it wasn't letting enough air through and that the oil it was gumming up the choke and not allowing the flap to open all the way he sprayed some starter fluid in it and it fired up. I was able to drive it home without the filter cap on it ( it was only 3 blocks away) so I'm new to these trucks and that filter. Is any of this true or make sense, what can I or should I do, do they have a paper filter conversion kit? I don't want this truck to leave my step son stranded.
#2
If you want to convert to a paper type filter check out Edelbrock Accessories - Pro-Flo Series Round Air Cleaners - Edelbrock, LLC. I purchased the 14" black one and it just fits perfectly. There are different ones and I think the black 14" was around $40.00, same price for the chrome one. Toss the old oil bath and install the Edelbrock. Make sure you buy the gasket also as it doesn't come with the air cleaner.
It fits 2 and 4 barrels, Ford or Holley and the Edelbrock carbs.
Good luck
It fits 2 and 4 barrels, Ford or Holley and the Edelbrock carbs.
Good luck
#3
#4
Did you get all your electrical fixed?
Good luck.
#5
#7
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#9
#10
Whoever claimed the oil bath was preventing it from starting...didn't know what the hell he was talking about!
The oil bath takes one pint of oil. There is no way, NONE...that the oil can clog up the choke or restrict the flow of air.
#11
I am new to the group but I had a 61 F100 years ago. In Oregon it rains a lot and if I would go through a puddle deep enough it sloshed water on my distributor, the 223 with the distributor low on passenger side. This would kill the truck and leave me dead at the side of the road until I wiped out the distributor and cap. To solve this problem my uncle told me to use clear coat spray paint and spray the distributor cap/distributor to help water seal the part. It worked like a charm, and although I know that this is a shade tree fix I also remember that it was an old truck so things weren't as new and tight as the new truck.
#12
AZ and other parts stores have a spray to dry electrical wires. I have a can I bought when I went dead at the car wash. It may have helped but it was 90 degree that day so the 30 minutes with the hood up helped a lot. New plug wires and a cap + Petronics pretty much makes it a non issue.
Send me a PM if you decide to get rid of the oil bath. I would like to have one to gut out and use with a dry filter. The oil bath on my 48 Ford tractor make sense. It is on the side of the tractor where you can easily take it off when you are changing the oil, dump and refill. Once a year, the whole assembly needs to be cleaned which takes an hour or two of messy work. They are good for real dusty environments. It is a little more tedious when they are under the hood of a truck.
Send me a PM if you decide to get rid of the oil bath. I would like to have one to gut out and use with a dry filter. The oil bath on my 48 Ford tractor make sense. It is on the side of the tractor where you can easily take it off when you are changing the oil, dump and refill. Once a year, the whole assembly needs to be cleaned which takes an hour or two of messy work. They are good for real dusty environments. It is a little more tedious when they are under the hood of a truck.
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