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51 F1 rear spring replacement

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Old 07-31-2014, 09:57 AM
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51 F1 rear spring replacement


Hi guys,
How difficult is it to replace the rear springs on a 51 F1?

I am attempting to put in a bed slide with a 500 pound BBQ to do light catering out of the truck.

Could I just add some simple air bag helpers?

Thanks,
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:02 AM
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If you still have the stock springs, and they're in good condition, 500 pounds won't hurt a thing. It'll barely know it's back there.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:04 AM
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They are original springs, my problem is that when the truck is parked on level ground one side sits approximately 1 1/2 inches higher than the other.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Fyrhosr
They are original springs, my problem is that when the truck is parked on level ground one side sits approximately 1 1/2 inches higher than the other.
What are your measuring points? Frame to a level floor? Bumper? Sheet metal? Are any leafs broken on the springs? How are the shocks? Lots of variables.

Like Merc said, 500 lbs is nothing in the back of one of our trucks. Put two fat chicks in the bed as a test run, Lol.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:27 AM
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You probably have a couple broken leaves on the low side. It's not a pleasant job to replace the springs (always replace in pairs), but you can do it yourself. Assume that you'll find that you need new pins and bushings, new U-bolts. You can also assume that at least one pin will be a PITA to get out. U-bolts shouldn't be re-used.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:31 AM
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No broken springs. I was measuring rear fender sheet metal.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fyrhosr
No broken springs. I was measuring rear fender sheet metal.
You need to find two static points on the rear frame horns and measure from there. Way too many variables out to the fenders. Even a bed mount bolt that is overtightened (or loose) can cause enough flex to cause the kind of deviation you're describing.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:59 AM
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Thanks Doc.
 
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:08 PM
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To add to Ross's post about the replacement pitfalls, you'll also need to drill an access hole in each side of the frame crossmember inorder to be able to drive the front shackle pins out.

If you ask me, it's easier to remove the rear springs with the bed off the truck, unless you have a lift.
 
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
To add to Ross's post about the replacement pitfalls, you'll also need to drill an access hole in each side of the frame crossmember inorder to be able to drive the front shackle pins out.

If you ask me, it's easier to remove the rear springs with the bed off the truck, unless you have a lift.
No need to drill if you do it this way:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...l#post12066882
 
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