1988 model, two hinged side doors.

The front doors have door lock/unlock switches but the side door does not. It locks/unlocks with the front doors but there is no switch to lock/unlock the front doors from the side door.

Has anyone got or added a switch on the side door?

Thanks,
jim

 

I added a side door lock button to my '03 EB----they already come with one in the rear doors.

Being **** as I am I used Ford OEM parts, switch and pig tail connector cost about $60 for the pair. From there its simply a matter of mounting the switch and connecting it in parallel with the existing PDL circuit. I fabricated my own ersatz wiring harness, ran the wiring inside the nearest roof rib which isn't a feat for the weak or lazy.

 

Thanks, JWA. I got lucky and found a diagram in all the paperwork that came with the van.
'88 150 club wagon. by jimandnena - Ford-Trucks

I don't have any other buttons besides the two front doors on this model and I don't use the rear doors much so if I can get the side door to work, I'm a happy camper. I like the idea of staying with OEM parts for appearance but not looking forward to running the wiring, that will be the challenge.
jim

 

This is what my finished (for now) new switches looks like--they're combined with interior lighting switches. First is of rear door, switch re-located from lower left of the open door to upper left for my convenience:




This is side door, tucked away from most activity to prevent accident activation:




My doors have been modified and added-to in order to better utilize what is wasted space---I work out of my vans.

 

Great job, JWA. I always looked for ways to make my life easier when I was working (5 years retired).

I thought about the location, decided the cover on the pillar was the most out-of-the-way spot and still handy while loading stuff. I got lucky (for once) and found the front door harness behind the right kick panel so I was able to run the wiring under the carpet to the pillar. Yay!

Anyway, it's all in and working, so my bride won't have to stand in the rain while I unlock her door.

Thanks for the photos and ideas! Always good to get 2nd (or more) ideas.
jim





Original and added door lock switches, '88 E150

 

Thanks Jim---I like your idea and execution too! Seems we're both a bit prone to go "over the top" once we get an idea in mind!

Sometimes we get lucky and most if not all the wiring we need has already been added during factory build. I don't necessary hate too much running new wires by definitely prefer splicing into something existing.

I took my own cues from the stock location, right side rear door but recessed both switches flush with the plywood/ABS panels I installed. Even though I have a hidden key on the frame thought it was better to avoid accidentally tripping my PDL's.

Where did you get the snazzy label? Looks like I might have to ramp up my job just to keep up now.

 

That's funny. Anything worth doing is always worth doing over the top. haha

I agree on the wiring approach. When I did the selector valve install I figured a way to "repurpose" one of the sender wires to avoid pulling any new wires. Even the TFI relocate project, I used a Mustang harness as the extension, already shielded and a factory connector. (Plus I am the poster child for lazy.)

The label was an afterthought. It dawned on me that the purpose of a switch sticking out might not necessarily be obvious to everyone. And since I used to do tech drawings for training manuals, this wasn't much of a challenge. It seemed like copying the look of the factory buttons made the most sense. Printed it out on plain paper, laminated the front, spray adhesive on the back and tada.

I REALLY wanted a rocker switch but couldn't find one that would work so I went with the toggle. If I find a rocker in the future, I can swap it out easily.
jim

 

PM me with your mailing address---I've more than a few that'd be suitable for this----some left over from my project. They'll be (On) Off (On) which is pretty much what the factory uses. A square hole in the B Pillar and trim might be necessary if you want them fitting close to their mounting surface.

Take a closer look at mine---they sit on a piece of 18ga sheet metal, trimmed to fit with help from a Dremel tool---and some skin I wasn't using anyway.

 

Fifteen bucks from Amazon, mounted under the hood, right side fender. Ran the wiring through the grommet into the kick panel and connected to the door lock switch wiring for the passenger door. Piece of cake and no more hassle with a door key.



Amazon -- 15 bucks



And since I was working on door locks, I ran wiring into the side door so the power locks work with the door open or closed. jim

 

Wow--that's a great price on a decent looking RKE module.

I like the size of the remotes too---have tiny ones for the work van and a huge honkin' brikc for my beater car, '99 Volvo S80.

Thanks for sharing Jim!