Hello all !!! I am a new member from the great white north, new to forums, new to on-line questions period, tried one other site, but had no luck, so figured this would be the best place to find accurate advise,and a new fresh start, so here goes...recently purchased a 94' F350 4x4,reg cab long box, with a stump pullin' big block..."am in love !" this truck has had some mods prior to my ownership, such as: K&N filter, 3" exhaust from the manifolds back, through a single flowmaster, no cat, Accel super coil, throttlebody spacer, it has had something removed from the end of the center section of the intake tubes, and the timing seems to be slightly advanced, needless to say...it goes like stink ! I am planning on headers and duals, as well as the K&N intake system upgrade to get the filter out of that obviously restrictive box. I've also recently befriended the owner of a local 4x4 and off-road shop, this fella knows his stuff, (he also proudly owns a heavily beefed up ford) he recomended that I let him reprogram my computer, that this process would show me great gains, and that he'd done this many times and has had awsome results every time, so I figured I'd let him do it.My questions are (1) I'm planning on removing the smog pump and related hoses and piping, what are the electronics in them and what happens if there unplugged ? (2) I'm guessing that I should leave a vacuum canister, which one ? (3) What do I use to plug the pipe holes in the back of the heads ? (4) Plug all related vacuum lines ? or are there some that need to stay connected ? and to what ? (5) EGR, leave it connected but plug it off ? (6) Can I utilize a larger throttlebody & injector size ? if so, what is recommended ? (7) What do I do with the EGR and the O2 sensor when I install the headers ? and finally (8) what spark plugs do these engines like ? Thanks to all who use and inform on these sites....Greatly appreciated !!!

 

1. no electronics, it's used to feed air into the cat converters to make them burn more efficiently. You have no more cats. Depending on your setup, you can either use a delete pulley for the pump or just remove it and use a shorter belt.

1. You might be able to do without one but why not leave them both?

1. Leave vacuum lines alone (except for what I mentioned below)

1. If you remove the EGR you will want to have access to the PCM (computer) to turn it off there as well, otherwise you have a chance of getting the CEL coming on and you can't get rid of it. Plug up the vacuum line for this. Also, if you are planning on plugging the holes in the back of the heads, might as well delete the thermactor sensors (there are 2) from the PCM. Plug those vacuum lines.

1. If you change the TB you should also adjust the related parameter in the PCM, although you might be fine without needing to change the PCM but you mentioned someone will have access to do that so might as well. If you change the injector size at all, you need to update the PCM (High and low slopes and breakpoint). For injectors I'd say determine the max horsepower you will ever want out of the truck and buy one size larger injector just so you have wiggle room - no matter the size they are mostly the same price ($50 each).

1. Leave the O2 sensor, the PCM needs it.

 

Also, for a gas motor I am not aware of great gains to be made just from tuning (changing the settings in the PCM) UNLESS you are modifying the motor. Example, larger injectors, larger heads, etc. There might be a couple of things that can be done but I'd be skeptical about 'great gains' just by tuning a stock gas motor.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I would stay with the stock air box and K&N filter(or paper filter if you prefer). Assuming that you have a 460, these trucks pretty much already have a cold air intake since the air is pulled straight from the grille.

 

I have found, through years of experience, this statement is 100% unnecessary, if you are wrong you will be corrected, no need to ask.

 

LOL, I guess you're right on that one

 

Thanks RIKIL & Fastback460 !!! I do however have a few follow-up questions....any idea what to use to plug the holes in the back of the heads, pipe-plug? bolt ? what size ? it's not so easy to measure while in the truck...also, what would be the optimum throttlebody and injector size, assuming I eventually reach 4-450hp ?.....spark plugs, I used to own a 78' F100 that I transplanted a moderately built (+/- 400hp) 71' cleaveland into that seemed to really like NGK platinums, what does a 94' 460 like to run ? as for the intake system, I'm on the fence with this one, I mean, when you really "honk on it" it sounds like a giant turbo charged vacuum, (sounds pretty cool mixed with the sound of the exhaust n'all ) but it obviously has some restriction, and the filter is clean, so ???? also, and finally , the EGR, is it ok to leave it connected but plugged off until I install the headers ? Again,Thanks...Thanks to all who participate !

 

From what I've heard others say, the best intake for these trucks is to keep the stock intake system but cut the air horns out of the inside of the intake tubes.

I wish I could give you some more info, but I'm still learning these trucks as well.

 

There are several sites with an injector size calculator that you can use to determine exactly what you need. I'd guess 39 lbs/hr will get you to 500 HP (at the flywheel). However, what I tell people is to get one size larger than you need (injectors are mostly the same cost no matter the flow rate). I have the same target as you for my 351W and I run siemens DEKA 60 lbs/hr. I heard those injectors are designed well and I didn't want to run 39s at 100% duty cycle to get my HP.

For the plugs, use what is recommended for your heads. If you have/get new heads, use what is suggested or use stock. I heard platinum are good though.

As for the intake, I am not sure what exists for a 460 but just remember that air is the most limiting factor when producing power so the more air, the better IMO.

With the EGR connected to the harness but not installed, it may run a bit rough. If you unplug it you risk having your check engine light go on permanently (until the EGR is plugged back in). This can be removed if you have access to program the computer. Oh, you will definitely need access to the computer to change the injectors. No way around that.

 

For a mostly stock 460 (or any Ford for that matter), put in some Autolite Copper plugs. These are of course not platinum so you will change them a bit more but they work great. I run them in all my Fords. The ONLY benefit of a platinum plug is that it won't wear as fast, assuming the engine is in good shape. Stay away from any fancy ones... them 4 electrode, super capacitive magic plugs are all gimmicks.

Air intake... just remove the air horns and run it. You'll need to get into some motor work before the stock intake tubes become the restriction.

You will get different opinions on disconnecting the EGR... some will say the truck won't get the best mileage without EGR, and this may be true, but it won't hurt anything else. You MIGHT get some light spark knock if you advance the timing, but on stock timing I've never had that happen. My EGR is disconnected and I'm doing fine mileage-wise, around 14.5 in town, and no spark knock even after I advanced my timing to 12 degrees. You WILL have a Check Engine light if you disconnect the valve and position sensor on top. If you just plug the line from the manifold to the valve then the computer won't know anything is wrong. If you do get the light, you can always just pull the bulb out like I do... I don't need no stinkin" light telling ME what to do, I know when something's wrong with my engine.

 

Thanks dixie 460 and all others who replied to my questions, so I assume that I'm on the right track, however, with regards to...plugs, I have'nt seen auto lights in my neck o' the woods, so I figure the NGK's will be ok they're a platinum single electrode plug, the air horns are removed, but, when being stomped on, I still hear some restriction, I figure that the intake opening behind the grill is the culprit, it narrows down to an opening half the size of the rest of the tubing, as for the EGR, I thought that I would just plug it off but leave it connected until I get headers, if I get the light, I'll unplug it.The 60 lb injectors sound about right for the intended purpose, but I still have no recommendations for the throttle body upgrade, also, the O2 sensor, once I install the headers does the O2 sensor still need to be there or can we delete that from the computer at the same time as we re-program ??? Thanks again folks

 

You can get rid of the O2 sensor if you switch to a carb. Otherwise, leave it. The PCM uses this to determine if the engine is lean or rich and will make adjustments to the short term and long term fuel trims to keep the motor running where it needs to be for the best efficiency.

 

In my first post I mentioned Great Gains to be had by reprogramming the computer, just to clarify, I meant freeing up some power, gaining a little gas mileage, attaining some accessory & upgrade freedoms and/or manageablity... Awsome gains in my book !!! Ps: 14.5 mpg-city.......only a dream fer me right now (I get approximately 10-11 mpg-city/13ish-hwy )-(but we did'nt buy it for the mileage now did we )

 

You're already getting better mileage than most of us with 460s. My guess? 14.5 mpg city with a 460 is only ever going to be a dream.

 

Got it on the O2 sensor "RIKIL"....leave it t'hell alone the efficiency explanation did it for me, like "Nothing Special" implied....respectable mileage out of a 460, is only a pipe dream.......Now I gotta new question fer yaall....any idea who makes, or where I can find, a descent set of after-market valve covers for this thing, or do I gotta work the ol' mo-jo on a set from the wreckers ???