yea baby, welcome to the jungle lol.

 

The key to starting in that cold of weather (besides the propper oil and a properly working Glow Plug system) is letting the glow plugs do there job for the right amount of time. Cycle the key on, count to 45 and repeat if needed. a few long GP cycles and you can start in just about any temp we would see in the US or canada. The myth to most is that when the WAIT TO START light goes out, that its time to crank. Not so. The GPs remain on for some period of time (which I can't remember but I think its 90 seconds) so let them warm the cyl. for one long cycle or 2...3 if needed. The coldest I have ever parked my truck was in MN and it was -15 at night. The next day I keyed on, waited 1 minute, keyed off and back on for another 30 seconds and it busted right off. The GPs pull a lot of amps so strong batteries are a must.

 

Hah!

p.s. unsubbing - don't need 6.0 zealots spamming Inbox.

Toodles.

 

The comments here are spot on. Glow plugs and solid batteries are the key. If you want to avoid headaches, pick up a pair of AGM batteries - either the Odyssey's (ODYSSEY Batteries - 65-PC1750T-A) or their re-branded Sears Die Hard Platinum cousins.

These batteries are an investment, no doubt, but picking up solid batteries will prevent you from having to become my customer when you trash your fuel injection control module as a result of inadequate voltage supply during these high amperage draw periods.

For amperage, you could consider on day one upgrading to a DC Power 185amp OEM alternator (I know you're surprised to hear that we rep for them - they run $309.95 delivered). These put out at idle what the factory versions do at their peak and increase the likelihood of your 20-25 mile daily jaunt being enough to get the batteries back to fully charged after each run.

The 6.0 is an awesome engine. It just needs some care and feeding to get it completely reliable. You can check out the maintenance tips page at ficmrepair.com for more information. There is also a TON of great info in the sticky sections in the 6.0 forum.

Good luck!

 

Awwwwwwww c'mon. Stay and play. You might actually learn something about Ford trucks with Navistar motors......

 

Trying?

C'mon, that's like someone saying the 6.0L PSD is a bad choice of engines because the 6.0 will blow head gaskets, or because they're always breaking down, or for some other BS reason when they know it's not true.

I defend and even promote the 6.0L all the time in the Ex forum. Let's not hate on the 7.3's.

Stewart

 

my auto start has a built in 45 second delay...

so far haven't tried to start in extreme cold with out pluggiung in...

but, may have to this coming week

Chris

 

Everyone knows you have to romp on the throttle to accelerate from a stop in a 7.3.

I had a 99 7.3. No Ill wills or regrets. 6.0 is just better that's all.

Josh

 

My point is, there are things that can be done to a 6.0 to eliminate problems before they hit, and the 7.3L is no different.

None of the 7.3's in my family have to be romped on to accelerate from a stop. All of them will move out, and move out fast off the line, with just a blip of the throttle.

Generalizing like you did with the 7.3 is as bad as what some people like to do with the 6.0's when they try and steer people away from them.

If something ever happens to my 7.3, I'm replacing it with a 6.0 because I know better than the people who like to talk crap on the 6.0L engines.

Hell, if I had the money right now I'd have a 6.0L in my stable. I don't even own one and I fight the misguided info posted about the 6.0 in threads in the Ex forum.

Stewart

 

Very well said Stewart!