does anyone know a good 7.3 mechanic in the pgh pa area
I have a cold start issue and do not have access to ae software. from what i gather the reasons can be numerous for this condition and i dont want to throw parts at it and hope. thanks

 

Are you up for doing any testing on your own?

 

X2 on what Darin said here. With just a few tools and tests we can help you sort out your cold start issues.

 

I borrowed a friends mac tools scanner and here is what i found.
Cylinder contribution test-passed
buzz test-passed
injector control pressure is a bit low around 2200-2400psi wot
duty cycle was around 55 wot
I've replaced uvch and glowplugs on both banks
replaced relay
replaced ipc( had oil on it)
If its the least bit cold it cranks and wont start. If I cycle the glowplugs a few times it starts< sometimes rough and sometimes not. Either way it pukes white smoke and reeks of diesel fuel. It smells like its running rich even when its warmed up. i checked hpop res and oil level is fine. stripped allen bolt in the process.
I'll do whatever it takes to get er done. I like my truck and want to be able to go out in winter without having to plug it in.
by the way, when I plug it in it starts easy and purrs like a kitten.
the dash oil gauge jumps around like its havin a fit, if I take off the connecter on hpop and plug back in it seems to temp. solve that issue.
any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

It sounds to me like you could have a faulty gpr, or some bad wiring to it. What brand is it? Have you tested it with a meter?

 

changed it last winter. havent tested it since. if its cold enuff 2mrw am ill test it again. thanks. ill let you know

 

Do you see a amp draw on the gauge when you turn on the glow plugs? The needle should stay down for a minute or two then pop back up. Sounds to me that the 'new' glow plugs aren't getting turned on.

 

You can test it at any temp. One big post should be hot with the key off, both when the key is on. IIRC shouldn't be more than a .3v drop between the two .

 

gpr is good. I guess I test the glowplugs next. Can you refresh my memory on resistance range?

 

Should be right around 1 ohm each

 

This is the key. More important than whether there's voltage at all on the second terminal, or whether you hear it click. It'll even show up as lower voltage on the meter on the dash, and it will energize the glow plugs, just insufficiently. So if the _difference_ between the two terminals _while_ the GPs are running is more than 0.3V, the relay is bad, even though it's closing.

BTW, to the OP, if by "cycling the key", you mean you're turning it off when the WTS light goes off and turning it back on, you're wasting your time and prematurely aging the GP relay. The glow plugs stay on long after the WTS light goes off. About one to two minutes, depending on oil temperature. So just leave the key in RUN for an extra 10-20 seconds. And make sure that the dash voltmeter indeed stays low for that period. That still indicates a possible glow plug issue, however.

Have you inspected the UVCH connectors? Can you get your hands on your friend's scanner again, and monitor EOT (oil temp) when you first start it and as it warms up?