6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Where do I start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-15-2013, 05:09 PM
Fowler007's Avatar
Fowler007
Fowler007 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Evansville
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Where do I start

I am what you cll , lost in the 50's. I know little about diesel but am wanting to learn to work on my truck. It is 2004 F350 6.0. It has about 75000 miles on it and I pull a 37 ft. 5th wheel. I thought I would start out l by getting a SCT programmer so I could read codes. Witch one should I get? Is there anything someone could suggest to me about the subject. Is there a better way to start? In another thread I described some of the troubles I was having, one being it has a popping or backfiring sound on spool up and also when you let off of it .It has blown the hose off of it several times. Thank Guy's
 
  #2  
Old 08-15-2013, 05:12 PM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,722
Received 74 Likes on 53 Posts
Sounds like a Dirty tubo or Bad sensr that goes to turbo
 
  #3  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:10 PM
Fowler007's Avatar
Fowler007
Fowler007 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Evansville
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thats what others say

They said the turbo sounds like it needs cleaned in the other thread. I would like to check the sensors that might contribute to this. Should I be thinking one of the OBEII gauges for this? and if so what kind of this does a guy need? Does this guage do the same as the SCT and just read the codes out that are malfunctioning? THANKS
 
  #4  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:28 PM
Mich6.0's Avatar
Mich6.0
Mich6.0 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Grand Rapids,MI
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
If you are mechanically inclined you could pull the turbo and clean the turbo, your unisom ring is sticking or stuck. I also have a 2004 with low miles and mine rusted so bad it broke the shear pin on the actuation arm, now it gets driven every week. No more problems. The OBDII is the connection socket for the computer. Scan Gauge II for codes or get a SCT TUNER if you want to put a program for more HP or Torque.
 
  #5  
Old 08-15-2013, 08:15 PM
2civicrr's Avatar
2civicrr
2civicrr is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: California
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Do your hoses have an oily residue on them when you touch them on the outside?

One of the big problems with these trucks is the CCV (closed crankcase ventilation) system. Towing heavy, the problem become more apparent because you're pushing the engine more which means more oil mist & longer periods of high boost pressures. BTW, even when my truck was bone stock, I had to deal with this problem. The way it is designed, a 'oil mist' actually gets pulled into the intake right before the turbo. That means the oil mist gets pulled (or pushed) through the turbo, CAC pipes and boots/hoses & intercooler. The original oem hoses were all silicon. Silicon is not designed to transport oil. The result is that over time, those hoses get oil soaked. When you get some decent boost, like when your truck is towing, the oil soaked hoses blow off. Once they are oil soaked & blow off, they will continue to do it. A small amount of oil will also collect into the CAC pipes & intercooler.

I don't remember exactly when, but the oem hoses were improved. The inner layer of the hoses is now oil resistant. You can tell because the inside is now orange.

The solution to this particular problem is:
1) CCV reroute to open air ventilation or a commercial/homemade breather and catch can setup.
2) Buying new oil resistant hoses. As I said, once oil soaked, the hoses are done. You can buy the updated oem (most expensive option) or from aftermarket vendor. I purchased the Riffraff Diesel hoses. BD Diesel also has hoses.

While you're playing with the CAC system, if you still have the plastic cold side (driver's side) pipe, I'd recommend updating to the metal pipe.

BTW, you'll still need to deal with your turbo. Note that Mich6.0 said he drives his truck every week. Exercising the turbo by driving it seems to be the way to help prevent sticking vanes, etc.
 
  #6  
Old 08-16-2013, 12:08 AM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,722
Received 74 Likes on 53 Posts
IDK if STC has a gauge setup

Most use ScangaugeII or DashBoss

Need to see
BARO
MAP
EBP
MAF
Boost

Just to start
 
  #7  
Old 08-16-2013, 05:50 PM
MisterCMK's Avatar
MisterCMK
MisterCMK is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Blue Hill Township
Posts: 24,705
Received 53 Likes on 43 Posts
Originally Posted by 2civicrr
While you're playing with the CAC system, if you still have the plastic cold side (driver's side) pipe, I'd recommend updating to the metal pipe.
The plastic CAC tube works fine and you have no boots to blow off or replace. I wouldn't bother replacing it unless it is cracked. There is no reason to update that part unless it breaks.
 
  #8  
Old 08-16-2013, 08:26 PM
2civicrr's Avatar
2civicrr
2civicrr is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: California
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My experience was just the opposite. Mine develop a "split" in early 2005. At that time, I was towing a 26' Classic enclosed auto hauler with race car, spares & tools. I'd owned my late build '04 approx 6 months or so at that point. The truck was still completely stock then. My dealer replaced mine as part of a TSB IIRC. Reading the forums, it seemed there were others experiencing the same problem.

I guess it could have been a bad run of plastic cold side tubes.....
 
  #9  
Old 08-16-2013, 10:18 PM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,722
Received 74 Likes on 53 Posts
Originally Posted by 2civicrr
My experience was just the opposite. Mine develop a "split" in early 2005. At that time, I was towing a 26' Classic enclosed auto hauler with race car, spares & tools. I'd owned my late build '04 approx 6 months or so at that point. The truck was still completely stock then. My dealer replaced mine as part of a TSB IIRC. Reading the forums, it seemed there were others experiencing the same problem.

I guess it could have been a bad run of plastic cold side tubes.....



THUS the Duct Tape MOD LOL
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MOOKIEX4
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
17
06-26-2019 09:46 AM
Jeffkniseley
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
10
07-24-2016 02:01 PM
Hank99
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
3
08-23-2012 12:15 PM
NFC002
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
8
09-19-2009 09:00 PM



Quick Reply: Where do I start



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:20 PM.