Boy I'm about to give up on Ford Trucks. My 95 F150 SC 4x4 is turning into a money PIT. First I'm having electrical gremlins, & no codes, Today I find out my Throttle Body is wore out, the shafts are walking around like they are dancing so the idle won't come back to the same place. Well first thought replace the TB, yea great idea. The only problem is a 5.0 with a 5 speed are not very available, plenty for automatics but not sticks.
So I'm at that point do I sell it & cut my losses. I have put more money in this truck than I want or it is worth. This is how my 86 F250 started out when I bought it in 1998, & it never quit until I gave it away in 2011.
Anyway, I'm told that the T/B is year, engine, & transmission specific. Does anyone know where to find one & the cost of one?
Sorry for the rant but I'm pissed.

Craig

 

The TB is ENGINE specific. 302 only accepts 302... You get the idea.

Transmission is irrelevant.

Junkyards/donor vehicles are the best bet for getting a new one...

Prices range from free to $75?

 

Thanks for your response. ENGINE & TRANSMISSION are SPECIFIC. This is according to RockAuto & the Wrecking Yards I have contacted. There are two TB one for Manuals & one for Autos.
I saw one in Reno NV for $50 the other 4 I found I have to call for price.
Thanks

Craig

 

Interesting. I've had a 1994 F150, I6/E4OD and now my 1992 F150 with I6/M5OD..

And the throttle body looks the same. No difference in linkages, etc.

I'm honestly not sure what any if any, changes could be. It simply direct/meters the air for the engine. Not like the old carbed engines where it might have a portion built in for a kickdown lever on an Automatic, and none for a manual.

Perhaps a side by side pic to show any differences?

 

I have no idea either. But the 302 shows a difference. Plus the shop that does my work also said they were different. I have to believe them because he could find a few local for Automatics but not a Manual. Why would he of passed on a chance to sell me a used one & install it? They are a very good & reputable shop. From all my years around Ford it doesn't surprise me. One of "Fords Better Ideas" I guess.

Craig

 

Very interesting indeed.

 

I was curious as to what lead you to have the TPS replaced?

Also, I don't believe it should matter if the TB you get is from a Manual, AOD, or E4OD. The E4OD T.B. doesn't have the "rivet or button" for the T.V. cable, but the '90 and '92 TB's are identical except for the vacuum ports on the driver side.

Hopefully another member can help clarify this for us.

 

When I looked up the TB for a 95 F150 on car-parts.com the website to wrecking yards all over the country they ask MANUAL or AUTO. Of the five I found in Nevada, Utah, AZ, CA, were listed as 93 or newer. You can find tons of them for AUTOMATICS.
So somewhere Ford must of made a change.

As for the TPS I have & had a fast idle problem. A voltage test showed the TPS was bad. Well when it was changed that is when the TB issue was found. The TPS helped bring the idle down under 1000 rpms, but because of the wore out TB shafts it still varies but it isn't near as high as before. I'm assuming the wore TB is causing a vacuum problem because when you pull up a hill the A/C goes from A/C vents to Defrost vents.
Then the crazy thing is a few days ago I filled it with gas @ night & drove about 10 miles home. The truck ran perfectly with NONE of the NORMAL ISSUES I'm having & have been having. I started it the next day & it ran perfect again until coming home (about 5 miles total). This is before the shop did the TSP or found the TB issue.
THIS IS WHY I CALL IT A GREMLIN.

Craig

 

Hey kermmydog,

Saw you mentioned about AC going to defrost. This is a known problem. It is a vacuum leak. Look on the passenger side area under hood for a "White" vacuum line leading to the actuator for the blend door control. Its like a vacuum modular or sort. Has a lever connected to it. Both if my trucks have thus and both would go to defrost when going uphill, etc. The vacuum line was brittle and exposed in places. Once I replaced and repaired it, no more defrost when I didn't want it and my idle returned to near normal.

Hope this helps you!

 

I had several 302 TB in my collection once. Only difference I found was for the TV cable to the AOD automatic transmission attach point. Now for a manual or E4OD it may not have it. That's the only thing I found.

 

Thanks for that info. The truck left me stranded again this afternoon. The Gremlin in my other post showed up & left us stranded. Thankful it was at McDonald's it was only 127 degrees outside. A friend came & got us. Then he & I towed it to the shop that does my work it was only a block & half away.
So I will check that vacuum line on Monday.
Craig

 

I highly recommend changing the brittle plastic vacuum lines to rubber lines.

They're flexible and the plastic ones are extremely prone to random cracking that'll leave you chasing vacuum leaks.

 

Yea that is a good idea. I went to the shop I towed it to today & the damn truck started up & ran home just fine. I was hoping it wouldn't start then it could be diagnosed. As long as it is going to just keep quiting & starting it is a big guessing game. I'm not sure how long I will mess with it before it finds a new home.

Craig

 

If you tap the throttle when it idles up will the idle drop back to normal? Our Rams at work have the same issue when the bearings inside the throttle body housing wear into the throttle shaft. Replacing the throttle body or disassembling the throttle body and swapping the shaft fixed the problem.

 

Does it just up and die no matter what tank your on? Wait a few min then it starts like nothing is wrong. My 89 F250 was doing that, drove me nuts as it was intermittant. Finaly the problem hard faulted and I was able to find the issue.... the fuel pump relay had bad contacts.

Another issue could be due to heat, is the TFI module is failing. Check for spark when the issue is occuring and listen for the fuel pumps and smack that relay to see if it is the issue.