mod reccomendations for a 460?
#16
06-18-2013, 07:25 PM
Stock timing is 10°.
First, you'll probably need to clean up the harmonic dampener where the timing marks are, and paint in the marks slightly in order to read them; mine was quite rusty and I couldn't tell what I was reading with the timing light.
As for changing the timing, first you need to disconnect the SPOUT (Spark Out). On the 92-97 trucks it's near the EEC test connection on the driver's side fender. I believe on the 88-91 trucks is located near the distributor. It should be a black electrical connector with a grey plug in it. The plug is actually a jumper and by removing it, you're removing the computer's ability to change the timing; you want this so that there is no advance to the timing which allows you to set the base timing (10° in this case).
Now all you have to do is loosen the distributor clamp (about 5:00 position when looking at it), and slightly rotate the the distributor to change the timing. I believe clockwise is more advanced, and counter-clockwise is less advanced. It doesn't take much to make the change, so be careful. Clamp down the distributor and go for a test drive to see if you have any detonation problems. If you do, back the timing off 1° and try again. I'd probably start at around 14° if you've done a full tune-up and have done the 6 litre tuneup, but plan on backing off a degree or two if it's hot out, you drive with a heavy foot, or if you tow.
First, you'll probably need to clean up the harmonic dampener where the timing marks are, and paint in the marks slightly in order to read them; mine was quite rusty and I couldn't tell what I was reading with the timing light.
As for changing the timing, first you need to disconnect the SPOUT (Spark Out). On the 92-97 trucks it's near the EEC test connection on the driver's side fender. I believe on the 88-91 trucks is located near the distributor. It should be a black electrical connector with a grey plug in it. The plug is actually a jumper and by removing it, you're removing the computer's ability to change the timing; you want this so that there is no advance to the timing which allows you to set the base timing (10° in this case).
Now all you have to do is loosen the distributor clamp (about 5:00 position when looking at it), and slightly rotate the the distributor to change the timing. I believe clockwise is more advanced, and counter-clockwise is less advanced. It doesn't take much to make the change, so be careful. Clamp down the distributor and go for a test drive to see if you have any detonation problems. If you do, back the timing off 1° and try again. I'd probably start at around 14° if you've done a full tune-up and have done the 6 litre tuneup, but plan on backing off a degree or two if it's hot out, you drive with a heavy foot, or if you tow.
#17
06-19-2013, 08:00 AM
FROM THE FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH FILE.
I owned an 02 Dakota 4x4 I bought new it was STOCK. I also owned an 86 F250 4x4 460/C-6 both modified for towing. The 460 had the cam advanced 4 degrees past TDC, Holley 4160 on top of an Edlebrock Performer manifold, True duals with turbos. 13" Ford Racing open air filter. In back of this was a Hayes Flex plate with Hughes Towing HD Converter, the C-6 had 6 forward cltches with a TransGo shift kit.
So K&N Filters were the THING TO HAVE. So I put one on my Ford & one on my Dodge. I'm in now. Well about time comes to put spark plugs in the Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8. So to get to a couple of plugs the air box needed to be removed. OH MY GOD, the air box throttle body was loaded with fine dust, like flour. I had to remove the TB & clean it try to get this crap out of the intake. A half hour turns into an all day project. So I go to look at my Ford & CRAP the HOLLEY IS LOADED WITH THIS DUST. So Sunday was spent tearing the Holley apart & trying to clean the intake.
Well the HAVE TO HAVE K&Ns went directly into the trash, over $100 worth of filters, & I went back to paper filters. Guess what that solved the dust in the air box & carb. the next time I needed plugs it took a half an hour & the rest of the weekend was running the back country of the high desert doing what I always did.
K&N filters are awful for off-road running on a vehicle you don't tear down every 1000 miles & rebuild completely.
That is what is wrong with them.
Craig
I owned an 02 Dakota 4x4 I bought new it was STOCK. I also owned an 86 F250 4x4 460/C-6 both modified for towing. The 460 had the cam advanced 4 degrees past TDC, Holley 4160 on top of an Edlebrock Performer manifold, True duals with turbos. 13" Ford Racing open air filter. In back of this was a Hayes Flex plate with Hughes Towing HD Converter, the C-6 had 6 forward cltches with a TransGo shift kit.
So K&N Filters were the THING TO HAVE. So I put one on my Ford & one on my Dodge. I'm in now. Well about time comes to put spark plugs in the Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8. So to get to a couple of plugs the air box needed to be removed. OH MY GOD, the air box throttle body was loaded with fine dust, like flour. I had to remove the TB & clean it try to get this crap out of the intake. A half hour turns into an all day project. So I go to look at my Ford & CRAP the HOLLEY IS LOADED WITH THIS DUST. So Sunday was spent tearing the Holley apart & trying to clean the intake.
Well the HAVE TO HAVE K&Ns went directly into the trash, over $100 worth of filters, & I went back to paper filters. Guess what that solved the dust in the air box & carb. the next time I needed plugs it took a half an hour & the rest of the weekend was running the back country of the high desert doing what I always did.
K&N filters are awful for off-road running on a vehicle you don't tear down every 1000 miles & rebuild completely.
That is what is wrong with them.
Craig
I had no idea they had these problems, or I never would have gotten one. I know that it did give me a little more hp. But it doesn't sound like it's worth it.
#18
06-19-2013, 10:23 PM
From my quote earlier....except I forgot to tell you to pull the spout connector on driver side fenderwell, before attempting to read balancer.
My guess is factory timing should be about 10 degrees, IF it hasn't been tampered with. You will need a timing light and good markings on the balancer to read the timing. At warm idle you will need to turn the distributor until you get 12 degrees on the balancer. I would add about 2 degrees for starters and be sure to listen for any pinging under load. If you plan on doing alot of pulling I wouldn't recommend much more than that, especially if you are running 87 octane. If you step up the octane, you may be able to tweak a little more.
My guess is factory timing should be about 10 degrees, IF it hasn't been tampered with. You will need a timing light and good markings on the balancer to read the timing. At warm idle you will need to turn the distributor until you get 12 degrees on the balancer. I would add about 2 degrees for starters and be sure to listen for any pinging under load. If you plan on doing alot of pulling I wouldn't recommend much more than that, especially if you are running 87 octane. If you step up the octane, you may be able to tweak a little more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1988F250Beast!!
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
01-21-2013 01:01 PM
FordFriend150
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
04-16-2009 10:10 PM
Critterhunter
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
8
07-30-2004 12:49 AM
brad76f250
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
6
07-26-2004 11:07 AM