Catastrophic AC compressor failure
#1
Catastrophic AC compressor failure
Since purchasing my Ex in 09 I have noticed a lack in the cooling capabilities of my Excursion especially on very hot days. I took it to a (what I understood to be a very competent) mechanic who diagnosed the compressor as being faulty. So I had him replace the compressor, drier and orifice tube.The compressor had major internal damage and the orifice tube was practically plugged solid with bits of metal. He said he flushed the system but I'm not sure if he did the rear or not because he said he couldn't find the rear orifice tube and from what I have read in various places Excursions don't have rear orifice tubes. I don't know how much oil or dye or refrigerant he used.
Anyway when I got it back the AC will cool somewhat when highway driving but around town hardly at all. I took it back and he put the guages on it again and said the pressure at idle was too high (300+psi) although it did drop to acceptable levels when cruising. Seeing as I needed my vehicle and the bill was already at $700+ + parts I just paid him and never went back. I haven't used the AC since because I don't want to risk destroying another compressor but summer is coming and I would really like to get this situation resolved.
My question is where do I go from here? Should I have the system reflushed and replace the condensor and dryer? What could be the cause of the unacceptably high pressures?
Anyway when I got it back the AC will cool somewhat when highway driving but around town hardly at all. I took it back and he put the guages on it again and said the pressure at idle was too high (300+psi) although it did drop to acceptable levels when cruising. Seeing as I needed my vehicle and the bill was already at $700+ + parts I just paid him and never went back. I haven't used the AC since because I don't want to risk destroying another compressor but summer is coming and I would really like to get this situation resolved.
My question is where do I go from here? Should I have the system reflushed and replace the condensor and dryer? What could be the cause of the unacceptably high pressures?
#3
It does have a Pressure sensor and should cut off the compressor if Pressure gets to High
So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C
Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C
Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
#4
If the low side is 30-40 and the high side is 300+ at idle an orfice tube is clogged.
If the system was overcharged is should cool fine and then freeze over and not work idle or cruise.
When a compressor implodes it really is a good idea to replace as much as you can, as the debris go everywhere.
Josh
If the system was overcharged is should cool fine and then freeze over and not work idle or cruise.
When a compressor implodes it really is a good idea to replace as much as you can, as the debris go everywhere.
Josh
#5
It does have a Pressure sensor and should cut off the compressor if Pressure gets to High
So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C
Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C
Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
#6
But the high pressure does indicate plugging in the high side.
Josh
#7
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#10
A/C is just like our cooling system. Flush,flush and more flush till it clean return.
The orifice tube should be near the evaporator I would think because once it go
through it and starts to expand it will start cooling. If I were doing this I would
flush the back separately from the front. That way you KNOW that each circuit is
clean and debris free.
Any of the lines and parts that are to get at and not overly costly I would replace.
The orifice tube is a given and so should be the dryer. Like I said if you can pull each
set of coils and flush so that you know that your getting a clean return flow of the
flushing agent.
Sean
The orifice tube should be near the evaporator I would think because once it go
through it and starts to expand it will start cooling. If I were doing this I would
flush the back separately from the front. That way you KNOW that each circuit is
clean and debris free.
Any of the lines and parts that are to get at and not overly costly I would replace.
The orifice tube is a given and so should be the dryer. Like I said if you can pull each
set of coils and flush so that you know that your getting a clean return flow of the
flushing agent.
Sean
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