6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Catastrophic AC compressor failure

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Old 05-02-2013, 11:00 PM
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Catastrophic AC compressor failure

Since purchasing my Ex in 09 I have noticed a lack in the cooling capabilities of my Excursion especially on very hot days. I took it to a (what I understood to be a very competent) mechanic who diagnosed the compressor as being faulty. So I had him replace the compressor, drier and orifice tube.The compressor had major internal damage and the orifice tube was practically plugged solid with bits of metal. He said he flushed the system but I'm not sure if he did the rear or not because he said he couldn't find the rear orifice tube and from what I have read in various places Excursions don't have rear orifice tubes. I don't know how much oil or dye or refrigerant he used.

Anyway when I got it back the AC will cool somewhat when highway driving but around town hardly at all. I took it back and he put the guages on it again and said the pressure at idle was too high (300+psi) although it did drop to acceptable levels when cruising. Seeing as I needed my vehicle and the bill was already at $700+ + parts I just paid him and never went back. I haven't used the AC since because I don't want to risk destroying another compressor but summer is coming and I would really like to get this situation resolved.

My question is where do I go from here? Should I have the system reflushed and replace the condensor and dryer? What could be the cause of the unacceptably high pressures?
 
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:08 PM
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Orfice tube is clogged again.

Josh
 
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:56 PM
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It does have a Pressure sensor and should cut off the compressor if Pressure gets to High

So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C


Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:11 AM
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If the low side is 30-40 and the high side is 300+ at idle an orfice tube is clogged.

If the system was overcharged is should cool fine and then freeze over and not work idle or cruise.

When a compressor implodes it really is a good idea to replace as much as you can, as the debris go everywhere.

Josh
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
It does have a Pressure sensor and should cut off the compressor if Pressure gets to High

So he could have Overcharged it and PCm sees high pressure so it cut the Pump or really the clutch thus NO A/C


Didnt the guy give something for a warrenty??? Granted probably not much or for very long
He probably would warranty it but I'm not sure I want him to...Could there be a bunch of crap in the condensor and if so could that cause this. It wasn't changed but they are reasonably priced and if I thought it would help I would.
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ramsay
He probably would warranty it but I'm not sure I want him to...Could there be a bunch of crap in the condensor and if so could that cause this. It wasn't changed but they are reasonably priced and if I thought it would help I would.
Definately crap in the condenser, hence some cooling at speed versus idle.

But the high pressure does indicate plugging in the high side.

Josh
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:09 AM
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I had the same thing happen with my escort. Blew three orifice tubes in 20 minutes of run time with 300+ pressure on high side. Deduced that the system was full of crud and the only fix was replacing the condenser and manually cleaning the lines.
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:00 AM
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Don't forget to flush the evaporator also.
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:24 AM
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At this stage of the game it may be better to just change the evap and the dryer seems like a lot of trash may be in the system. May not have flushed it well enough.
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:05 PM
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A/C is just like our cooling system. Flush,flush and more flush till it clean return.
The orifice tube should be near the evaporator I would think because once it go
through it and starts to expand it will start cooling. If I were doing this I would
flush the back separately from the front. That way you KNOW that each circuit is
clean and debris free.
Any of the lines and parts that are to get at and not overly costly I would replace.
The orifice tube is a given and so should be the dryer. Like I said if you can pull each
set of coils and flush so that you know that your getting a clean return flow of the
flushing agent.

Sean
 
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