Injector
#1
Injector
I had my 2004 ford 6.0 diesel scanned and says #5 injector bad. What I am needing ask is can I replace just the #5 bad injector or must I do them all. I'm hearing I can do just the bad injector then I hear I must do all 8 of them. Anybody ever just do the bad one and truck does good? Truck has 70k on miles
#2
If you can try to find out why that injector failed, then you can make an informed decision. They usually fail from low fuel pressure or from the FICM starting to fail, so you need to have the fuel pressure tested at full load (there is a special test unit that dealers should have) and you need to get the OBDII data read to find out what the FICM voltages are doing. If you rectify any known problems, then changing one injector may be fine. On the other hand, they may all be waiting to die on you, with the damage already done...
Personally, I would test the parameters I mention, make sure the upgraded fuel pressure spring is in place and the FICM was fine, and replace just the one injector.
Brian
Personally, I would test the parameters I mention, make sure the upgraded fuel pressure spring is in place and the FICM was fine, and replace just the one injector.
Brian
#3
Also if you still have the information they gave you. Post the codes that
made then think it a bad injector There is not a (BAD INJECTOR) code.
You take the codes present and then do some testing. Also what was it
doing when you took in to be checked. This would help to see if they are going the right
direction. We have some people that post here that are very good and can talk you
through diagnosing and the repair.
One tool that is a big help is some thing like the SGII (Scanguage II) ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
You can pick this up at Autozone for about $160.00 The other options are a bit more money
but worth it if it saves you replacing parts that don't need to be replaced or saving a part from
being damaged from something that is less expensive to fix. Fro example a bad battery will
stress the alternator and stress/kill the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module) and that in turn
will kill injectors. So if you see that battery voltage is starting to be a bit low you can get the problem
fixed before it costs a lot of money. The other place that a good monitoring tool helps is if you
do take ti to a shop and you know what needs to be done and they come back with something
totally different you know that they may bit know what they are doing with a 6.0L.
Let us know what is going on and we can try and help you.
Good luck
Sean
made then think it a bad injector There is not a (BAD INJECTOR) code.
You take the codes present and then do some testing. Also what was it
doing when you took in to be checked. This would help to see if they are going the right
direction. We have some people that post here that are very good and can talk you
through diagnosing and the repair.
One tool that is a big help is some thing like the SGII (Scanguage II) ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
You can pick this up at Autozone for about $160.00 The other options are a bit more money
but worth it if it saves you replacing parts that don't need to be replaced or saving a part from
being damaged from something that is less expensive to fix. Fro example a bad battery will
stress the alternator and stress/kill the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module) and that in turn
will kill injectors. So if you see that battery voltage is starting to be a bit low you can get the problem
fixed before it costs a lot of money. The other place that a good monitoring tool helps is if you
do take ti to a shop and you know what needs to be done and they come back with something
totally different you know that they may bit know what they are doing with a 6.0L.
Let us know what is going on and we can try and help you.
Good luck
Sean
#5
Well that opens up some things
Stiction
FICM
Oil weight
Battery age and voltage.
Some things that should be checked are the FICM voltage right when KO then are
you start when running and at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) it should be about 45
and closer to 48. Someone will pipe in what the lower end should stay above.
What weight oil are you running and is it synthetic?
How long has that oil been in and do you have the Ford cap and OEM filter?
Sean
Stiction
FICM
Oil weight
Battery age and voltage.
Some things that should be checked are the FICM voltage right when KO then are
you start when running and at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) it should be about 45
and closer to 48. Someone will pipe in what the lower end should stay above.
What weight oil are you running and is it synthetic?
How long has that oil been in and do you have the Ford cap and OEM filter?
Sean
#6
#7
The wixx filter could be a problem but most likely not right now.
There is a photo of the caps somewhere that shows the two caps
and what is the right one. You want the Ford OEM oil cap and OEM
oil filters or at least ones that are the approved. Fram is no longer
and wixx also is not. Lets see if Rusty can post that image for you.
Sean
There is a photo of the caps somewhere that shows the two caps
and what is the right one. You want the Ford OEM oil cap and OEM
oil filters or at least ones that are the approved. Fram is no longer
and wixx also is not. Lets see if Rusty can post that image for you.
Sean
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#9
#11
Here's the scoop on changing injectors:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4355612
A little ways down on the first page Bismic posted links to some videos as well.
I would do the FICM test before changing the injector. Pretty quick and easy, but nice to have a helper to flip the ignition switch:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
And while the meter is out I would also check the battery voltage as yahiko mentioned earlier.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4355612
A little ways down on the first page Bismic posted links to some videos as well.
I would do the FICM test before changing the injector. Pretty quick and easy, but nice to have a helper to flip the ignition switch:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
And while the meter is out I would also check the battery voltage as yahiko mentioned earlier.
#12
#13
If you get a chance can ask what the codes were. Most likely it will
be a high or low injector circuit type code and some times a bad plug will
give I think a low circuit code.
On the thoughts of Stiction that can helped with synthetic oil in some cases or
a does of HotSHot secret. How long it lasts I don't know because I have not needed it.
Sean
be a high or low injector circuit type code and some times a bad plug will
give I think a low circuit code.
On the thoughts of Stiction that can helped with synthetic oil in some cases or
a does of HotSHot secret. How long it lasts I don't know because I have not needed it.
Sean
#14
You can take the chance that one injector will solve your problem, but most likely if one failed the other 7 are not far behind.
My injector story: last fall on a fishing trip to northern Minn Truck would not maintain 55. stopped at Ford dealer in Owatonna. 1 injector and two hours later back on the road. still under warranty so only 100.00 charge.
got home a week later and it started acting up again. took it to local dealer they advised two injectors failed and HFCM (pump) failing causing low fuel psi. two new injectors and HFCM & fuel psi regulator up-date (Blue Spring) good to go again. No deductible already paid it WHEW! so I ask about the other injectors Knowing they were probably damaged they advised no codes yet so Ford would not replace, kind of worried me but I understood no codes no replace them. About six weeks later it started doing it again so back to dealer and the remaining 5 were changed. So IF you first injector that failed was caused by low fuel PSI it has most likely damaged the rest of them and now its Just a matter of time. Oh I almost forgot My local Dealer Dewey Ford Took great care of me through the whole thing it was a bit stress full waiting for the next ones to quit but at least on the third trip in they were able to get the remaining ones changed out and it did not cost me anything more than my original 100.00 deductible. Thank You FORD!!
So if you can determine it is injector failure & have the funds do them all if not its a gamble, Good Luck!!!
My injector story: last fall on a fishing trip to northern Minn Truck would not maintain 55. stopped at Ford dealer in Owatonna. 1 injector and two hours later back on the road. still under warranty so only 100.00 charge.
got home a week later and it started acting up again. took it to local dealer they advised two injectors failed and HFCM (pump) failing causing low fuel psi. two new injectors and HFCM & fuel psi regulator up-date (Blue Spring) good to go again. No deductible already paid it WHEW! so I ask about the other injectors Knowing they were probably damaged they advised no codes yet so Ford would not replace, kind of worried me but I understood no codes no replace them. About six weeks later it started doing it again so back to dealer and the remaining 5 were changed. So IF you first injector that failed was caused by low fuel PSI it has most likely damaged the rest of them and now its Just a matter of time. Oh I almost forgot My local Dealer Dewey Ford Took great care of me through the whole thing it was a bit stress full waiting for the next ones to quit but at least on the third trip in they were able to get the remaining ones changed out and it did not cost me anything more than my original 100.00 deductible. Thank You FORD!!
So if you can determine it is injector failure & have the funds do them all if not its a gamble, Good Luck!!!