51 Ford F1 truck (rear end/suspension swap)
#1
#2
Ford 9" from a 1957-1972 F100 is pretty much a direct bolt on. You'll need larger rear shock brackets since the 9" housing is larger than the stock rear end housing. Stick rear shock brackets from a 1948-52 F2-F3 will also work. Summit also has a set of generic shock mounts that will work with the 9".
#3
assuming you are pretty stock:
for a 1/2 ton, you are looking at a 5 on 5 1/2 pattern
for a 51, you would need a 61" wide rear end. Great luck a Ford 9" from a 57-72 F100 truck is a direct bolt in, leaf spring pads are the same width and everything. on my 48 I have a slight difference in the shock mounts. I overcame this with a bolt change rather than grinding off and re-positioning the shock mounts.
Now if you want to switch to a 5 on 5 pattern or 5 on 4 1/2 then other 9" are also choices (5 on 4 1/2 is the "car" pattern 5 on 5 1/2 is the "truck" pattern). Early shoe box broncos (pre '72) I believe are also the same width.
There is a whole article on rear end options and I have written an xl spreadsheet with a great level of detail.
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles
http://www.brainsbivouac.com/cars/19...20Database.xls
I also think a guy could use a Dana 44 from those same years (57-72) - early on when Ford got a request for a locker they used Dana instead of 9", later they offer the 9 with LSD of some type.
A lot of focus has been given to the 9" since it is well supported, but something I found because it is also associated with racing, there is a TON of price gouging when it comes to work. Offroaders generally go up to the DANA 60, and that leaves the 44 as a common (still being put in today), with lots of support and less $$$ hit.
Note, if you are taking a complete axle out from under a truck/bronco/mustang then I would strongly recommend you narrow your years - in '68 all brakes became dual circuit (law), there was a ton of changes and some of em not so good. in '69 Ford increased the brakes from the smaller width to a full 2". I would suggest look for a 69-72 F100. If you are going to a yard, find the best ratio, and cabbage parts off all the other donors to give it the best brakes possible and then buy the whole axle complete. Grab the u bolts and shackle plates since as mentioned the old is 2 1/2" the new is 3" tube.
I screwed up and got the newest best brakes in the wrong ratio - I am now looking for a center section swap.
for a 1/2 ton, you are looking at a 5 on 5 1/2 pattern
for a 51, you would need a 61" wide rear end. Great luck a Ford 9" from a 57-72 F100 truck is a direct bolt in, leaf spring pads are the same width and everything. on my 48 I have a slight difference in the shock mounts. I overcame this with a bolt change rather than grinding off and re-positioning the shock mounts.
Now if you want to switch to a 5 on 5 pattern or 5 on 4 1/2 then other 9" are also choices (5 on 4 1/2 is the "car" pattern 5 on 5 1/2 is the "truck" pattern). Early shoe box broncos (pre '72) I believe are also the same width.
There is a whole article on rear end options and I have written an xl spreadsheet with a great level of detail.
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles
http://www.brainsbivouac.com/cars/19...20Database.xls
I also think a guy could use a Dana 44 from those same years (57-72) - early on when Ford got a request for a locker they used Dana instead of 9", later they offer the 9 with LSD of some type.
A lot of focus has been given to the 9" since it is well supported, but something I found because it is also associated with racing, there is a TON of price gouging when it comes to work. Offroaders generally go up to the DANA 60, and that leaves the 44 as a common (still being put in today), with lots of support and less $$$ hit.
Note, if you are taking a complete axle out from under a truck/bronco/mustang then I would strongly recommend you narrow your years - in '68 all brakes became dual circuit (law), there was a ton of changes and some of em not so good. in '69 Ford increased the brakes from the smaller width to a full 2". I would suggest look for a 69-72 F100. If you are going to a yard, find the best ratio, and cabbage parts off all the other donors to give it the best brakes possible and then buy the whole axle complete. Grab the u bolts and shackle plates since as mentioned the old is 2 1/2" the new is 3" tube.
I screwed up and got the newest best brakes in the wrong ratio - I am now looking for a center section swap.
#4
#5
Front supension swap
Thank You for the GREAT information. Would you happen to have similar info for changing the front suspension as well? Thank You, Brian
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles
#6
No can do mon ami, all the front end swaps turn into fab fab fab. I think about the simplest would be to use an early F100 or bronco front end (the dreaded twin i beam).... A better quality would be a later f100 or bronco (like a dana 44 if you want to go the route of the 4x4 land) - but again FAB FAB Fan-dab-ulous.
Others might have more ideas than what I threw out there but I don't remember seeing any threads about a simple front end swap.
If you aren't going to do a ton of fab work, just go through through your front brakes and drive it with the patience and care of a drum system.
Others might have more ideas than what I threw out there but I don't remember seeing any threads about a simple front end swap.
If you aren't going to do a ton of fab work, just go through through your front brakes and drive it with the patience and care of a drum system.
#7
If you want to read it just for the academic challenge, here's the most detailed front end options (11 of em, none are novice level).
53-79 F-Series Steering & Suspension .: Articles
Now this guy went the bronco route (I'd have to re-read to see if it is the DANA 30 or the DANA 44):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...d-f-1-4x4.html
53-79 F-Series Steering & Suspension .: Articles
Now this guy went the bronco route (I'd have to re-read to see if it is the DANA 30 or the DANA 44):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...d-f-1-4x4.html
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#8
#9
#10
For general use, the stock front end works fine. I am in the process of going through mine right now.
I think someone said to plan on around $600 for complete rebuild. So far, my expenses are:
spring bushing set- $45
disc brake conversion - $280
king pin bushings - $40 (machine work supposed to be around $50)
Toyota Power steering box (not required) - $40+100 for pitman arm
Still need to get shocks and possibly rebuild the drag link. The disc kit is not absolutely necessary, but I decided to upgrade since I had to go through everything anyway. If you don't do discs, you will probably have around $100 into rebuilding the stock drum system.
I think someone said to plan on around $600 for complete rebuild. So far, my expenses are:
spring bushing set- $45
disc brake conversion - $280
king pin bushings - $40 (machine work supposed to be around $50)
Toyota Power steering box (not required) - $40+100 for pitman arm
Still need to get shocks and possibly rebuild the drag link. The disc kit is not absolutely necessary, but I decided to upgrade since I had to go through everything anyway. If you don't do discs, you will probably have around $100 into rebuilding the stock drum system.
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