Dual electric fuel pump bypass
#1
Dual electric fuel pump bypass
I had an idea wanted to run by somone, dual electric fuel pumps like the off the shelf mr gasket diesel pumps. i bypassed the mechanical lift pump now and have one electric fuel pump now mounted on passenger side wheel well. But why not run two deff helps when priming fuel filter. Just wanted som input on the idea?? Any Gains that you can think of?? Any disadvantages?
#2
.. imo mr.gaskets pule pumps blow ... used to race derby cars and id be lucky is i got one to last one night ... fausect ?!? not sure the spelling but they makes some the best small electric pump under 75$ ... as far as primeing the filter i have a boat tank squeez ball and works great.. if everything works right my motor primed in maybe 10 revloutions and then i had fuel at injectors if everything is working right it should not be nessary ... why bypass the mechanical i think i can get one from advance here for 26$ bucks
#3
thats just what works for me may be a better way of doing it for u but since owership of my 7.3 ive been on the side of the road only 2 times and both where in the first 2 mounths of owning a diesel never run it outa fuel and prime it with injectors cracked only like 1/4 turn and turn over ... make sure your in park or nutral..long story lol and have someone turn it over (or jump solnoid and tighting all injectors as u carnk and after u see bubbles stop should be quick other wise something is wrong (sucking air or something) imo not the only way to do it
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#8
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for far less than the cost of two mr gaskets pumps,you can get one that will outlast your truck and be done with it.it's actually made to pull fuel as well,unlike the mr. really it's not a whole lot more than just what one mr pump sells for these days.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10774080
the mr. and holly pumps don't last.there has been enough of us to try 'em to know.save your money.
there are two proven.the carter for a frame rail pusher,and the dura lift for a puller (or pusher) option.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10774080
the mr. and holly pumps don't last.there has been enough of us to try 'em to know.save your money.
there are two proven.the carter for a frame rail pusher,and the dura lift for a puller (or pusher) option.
#9
ok boys, your spelling and grammar is killing me here. would it be too much to ask for us to speak english not texteze - thanks
now, the mr gasket pumps are garbage. if you run them, you'll need 2 so you can swap in the new one to replace the dead one. don't waste your time on that.
the best e-pump out there is the facet duralift, its just about the most reliable thing out there, and unlike most e-pumps, its willing to suck fuel up, as far as 10 feet IIRC. most other e-pumps like to push and hate to pull - thats why most cars put them right in the tank.
the mechanical pump on the engine is strong and reliable, but when you have air in your lines, you can crank till the batteries are dead before it gets fuel up there. this is why many of us go electric.
you must not set things up such that the e-pump pushes through the mechanical pump all the time, or a failure in the mechanical pump will leak fuel into the oil much faster than it otherwise would. but you may have it run that way with the e-pump wired to only run for a moment to prime the system.
mine is set up that way. i have the e-pump mounted on the frame just forward of the tank selector valve, the mechanical pump in place and working, and the e-pump wired to it only runs when the glow plugs are lit or i'm pushing a button. so the system is fully primed as i'm waiting for the plugs to warm up, and i have the button for any other time i may need it, such as getting air in the line when hot, which has happened a couple times.
cracking the injector lines seems to be common practice, but i've never had to, even when i ran one tank empty on the highway. i switched tanks, held the pump button, and downshifted my c6 to keep the engine turning without running the starter. i lost too much speed and the engine stopped, so i stayed on the e-pump button, and cranked it for 5 seconds at a time, and on the third try it fired up and was fine.
now, the mr gasket pumps are garbage. if you run them, you'll need 2 so you can swap in the new one to replace the dead one. don't waste your time on that.
the best e-pump out there is the facet duralift, its just about the most reliable thing out there, and unlike most e-pumps, its willing to suck fuel up, as far as 10 feet IIRC. most other e-pumps like to push and hate to pull - thats why most cars put them right in the tank.
the mechanical pump on the engine is strong and reliable, but when you have air in your lines, you can crank till the batteries are dead before it gets fuel up there. this is why many of us go electric.
you must not set things up such that the e-pump pushes through the mechanical pump all the time, or a failure in the mechanical pump will leak fuel into the oil much faster than it otherwise would. but you may have it run that way with the e-pump wired to only run for a moment to prime the system.
mine is set up that way. i have the e-pump mounted on the frame just forward of the tank selector valve, the mechanical pump in place and working, and the e-pump wired to it only runs when the glow plugs are lit or i'm pushing a button. so the system is fully primed as i'm waiting for the plugs to warm up, and i have the button for any other time i may need it, such as getting air in the line when hot, which has happened a couple times.
cracking the injector lines seems to be common practice, but i've never had to, even when i ran one tank empty on the highway. i switched tanks, held the pump button, and downshifted my c6 to keep the engine turning without running the starter. i lost too much speed and the engine stopped, so i stayed on the e-pump button, and cranked it for 5 seconds at a time, and on the third try it fired up and was fine.
#10
I run a Carter E-pump, plumbed in parallel to the stock mechanical lift pump by way of a second fuel line and some check valves to isolate the 2.
So I use the E-pump for priming the system (or in case the mechanical dies), and the truck runs primarily off of the stock mechanical pump.
The setup works great for how I use it. The one problem that can occur, is if the E-pump is on (therefore both pumps running), it raises the fuel pressure to the point that it advances the pump timing (enough the injectors start getting louder than even when the cold start advance is on) unless there is a pretty good load on the engine.
2 pumps = more fuel pressure than the engine can use resulting in too much timing.
So I use the E-pump for priming the system (or in case the mechanical dies), and the truck runs primarily off of the stock mechanical pump.
The setup works great for how I use it. The one problem that can occur, is if the E-pump is on (therefore both pumps running), it raises the fuel pressure to the point that it advances the pump timing (enough the injectors start getting louder than even when the cold start advance is on) unless there is a pretty good load on the engine.
2 pumps = more fuel pressure than the engine can use resulting in too much timing.
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