Earlier in the week my slave cylinder started leaking causing air bubbles getting into the line from a low amount of fluid,i needed to drive the truck so i just added more fluid and was driving it fine just some slope in the clutch when i went to shift the clutch got stuck down on the floor and wouldn't come back up. I pulled it over and got it pried back up and when it came up the master cylinder push rod and Clutch interlock switch popped of the linkage. I got it shoved back on and went to start my truck to drive it home but now it won't turn over at all?? Any Help would be highly appreciated!

 

To get the truck to crank over and start: SAFETY FIRST make sure the transmission is in neutral and if it is on a slope where it can roll, lock the park brake or have an assistant hold the regular brake pedal. NOW:

Turn the ignition switch on. Run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the large post on the fender mounted solenoid that has the one small wire on it that runs down to the starter. This should crank and start the truck.

 

88, your post sounds confusing.

for the OP, if you're currently on a hill, and happen to have the clutch working again, put the tranny in 3rd, press the clutch until you're rolling a bit, and let the clutch out. the movement of the truck will spin your engine and fire it up.
if you're not currently on a hill, refer to the safety concerns in the previous post (neutral, parking brake, etc), and run a jumper wire from the hot battery post to the small terminal on the solenoid for just long enough to start the engine.

or you can look at the clutch position switch thats mounted to the pushrod you had to put back on, most of them are adjustable and you may be able to screw with it and bring it back to life.

for the long-term, you should make sure you have a proper bushing to mount the pushrod to the clutch pedal's linkage arm. they do wear out eventually, and since yours fell off, its obviously worn out.

 

Josh, I was just pointing out the safety aspect IN CASE he was on a slight slope. I am thinking Beat94 just needs to now get his truck started to drive it home and repair it properly.

I was telling him how to start the truck with a failed clutch safety switch. I know I could have said turn the ignition switch on and hook up a remote start switch in the normal manner. But he may not have a remote starter switch. Sorry josh, I fail to see the confusing part under #2.

 

maybe its just me, but that sounds a bit unclear to me. he would need to run a temporary wire from battery + to the small post on the solenoid.

i know how to rig up one of these things, but didn't think that your description i quoted would be clear enough for someone who didn't know. maybe i just need to shut up and open a beer. but whatever, between our posts, the OP will get the point.

 

That would be the case on a 1991 or older Ford truck. But if you look at a 1992 or newer truck, they changed the starting setup. They run a large battery cable directly to the starter from the positive battery post, as well as a large battery cable to the fender mounted solenoid. Actually they just split the large feed cable coming off the positive battery post. They also put another solenoid on top of the starter. They then just have a smaller wire running from the solenoid to the starter. So the way I stated will work. Granted running the jumper to the small terminal on the solenoid as you said would also work. I think the 1991 and older and 1992 and newer solenoids are identical, probably the same part number. Now that's probably confusing. Just having a little friendly discussion with you josh.

 

got it. i forgot about how they switched styles there for 92-up. thats why we're all here to sort out whats right and whats not.
have fun out there, and don't work too hard now

 

Josh my clutch is not working so i couldn't use that advice but really appreciate it. 88 i just jumped the two post on the solenoid together to get it started, didn't require such a long piece of wire. I got the truck fired right up and i got it moved a barely a few feet because the clutch is so bad but now that has been started and moved it starts up fine from just turning the key. I'm almost positive that the problem is the clutch interlock switch because when i pulled the codes last night i got code 522 (clutch interlock circuit fault).

 

that would make sense since you just had your hands on the clutch interlock unit. shouldn't be too hard to find what broke in there