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Burnt oil

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  #1  
Old 10-19-2012, 04:35 PM
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Burnt oil

I been running a 292 in a F-100 conservatively. However, the oil seems to be burnt after about 200 miles.....any thoughts?
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:01 PM
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Hey Scout Driver...whats your TOT say at 100%?

Not sure on the oil though...does it run a little hot normally?

BTW, I enjoyed that video you sent me a while back that you and your unit buddies made.
Very cool man.


Jason
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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Thinking bad piston ring(s).........I hope not.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:20 PM
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Crop,

The water temp never get out of the norm. I would say it is never running for more than 25 mins as my drive to work is only is only 10 miles. I do have the idle set at about 1250 when the manual recommends 850 but anything less than 1000, it almost dies.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:12 PM
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What's your timing at?
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1966 F250 4X4 416 Clark 280V
1990 F350 4X4 4BTA E4OD
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Why polish a turd?
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Based on everything I've here in Fte, websites, and articles, a 12-valve Cummins is the no-brainer choice.
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Let's be honest, people just don't swap powerstrokes. There is a reason for this.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:16 PM
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Why are you thinking timing Redneck? I would have to look at it again. I was having a distributor placement/movement issue after I put it back together but I think I got it locked down.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:44 PM
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Why are you thinking timing Redneck? I would have to look at it again. I was having a distributor placement/movement issue after I put it back together but I think I got it locked down.
I don't have anything else to think. It should be able to idle lower than 1,000.

Have you tried a seafoam treatment? With the motor idling, slowly pour a can of seafoam down the carburetor. When it dies, pour the rest in and roll the motor over a couple times. Let it sit for 20 minutes. Start it and go spin some brodies until the smoke clears up.


That might not do any thing either. It's worth a try though.
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1966 F250 4X4 416 Clark 280V
1990 F350 4X4 4BTA E4OD
Quote:
Originally Posted by HIO Silver View Post
Why polish a turd?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HIO Silver View Post
Based on everything I've here in Fte, websites, and articles, a 12-valve Cummins is the no-brainer choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F357 View Post
Let's be honest, people just don't swap powerstrokes. There is a reason for this.
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  #8  
Old 10-20-2012, 09:22 PM
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I had the heads cleaned when I tore it apart. I put new plugs in with the correct gap. I did not replace the wires cause they didnt look bad or that old. I wonder if I dont have the distributor adjusted exactly right. But anyway.....I figure the only time it'll idle is at the stop sign, so I would just burn alittle more gas. Right?
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:22 PM
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What is your oil useage? What weight of oil is it? Have you done a compression test? Check for a vacuum leak if you can't get the idle down to a reasonable run- look carefully at the hoses and carb base gasket...
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:29 PM
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I am running 10W-40 in it. I havent added any oil to it all summer. I was a bit low on the compression range but still in the range according to the manual. The vacuum gauge in the truck was showing normal(accel, idle, dece accordinglyl) when I first put it back together. Short time later it dropped off significantly. I figured the line from the intake manifold was leaking as it appeared to be older and I havent replaced it yet. Do you think I have a significant vacuum leak? How can I find the leaks? obviously soapy water isnt going to work....
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:37 AM
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Hey Scout,

I was having trouble dialing in the timing once, getting it to my 302's specs, which is somewhere around 600-700
if memory serves...it turned out to be a vacuum leak with the intake hose to tranny....just enough of a leak to be
"a fly in the oinment" as Grandpa used to say.

Ultimately, I cannot understand how oil could be burnt unless it was running really hot??... your idle speed is
still well below normal operating rpms.

I'd really chase down the timing/idle rpm issue first...you should be able to get it idling well below a 1000...as far as
finding/solving leaks, my philosophy has always been simple...throw enough money at the problem and it always
goes away...hoses are cheap, and these trucks have only a few of them...I'd replace them and start from there.

Good luck Mate.

Best,
Jason
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:13 AM
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What do you mean when you say the oil "appears burnt"? Just dark, or is there a smell or something like that?
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:44 PM
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Listen for the hiss of air out a leaking hose. If you suspect the base gasket of the carb is leaking spray some starting fluid at the base - at idle speed. This will momentarily change the engine idle. Replacing vacuum hose is easy and cheap. If there is any rigidity in the hoses don't hesitate to replace it.
Did you use all new gaskets when you "put it back together"? As to compression you want all cylinders to be within 10% of each other regardless of the "range"
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