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Yeah, so to start out with I have a 2005, 4 cylinder, 2.3l engine, 2x4, Ford Ranger, and is just about at the 70,000 mile mark. Long story short here is the problem…
fficeffice" />>I going to take it the auto-mechanic this morning; any idea if it’s going to be and easy fix to loosen the oil plug, or what the price point might be?>>
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I would get a set of ViceGrips, find the appropriate size that will fit into the niche, and clamp onto the head of the plug. Rotate COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Lefty Loosey...
You should be able to break it free, and replace it with a new one from FoMoCo or an auto parts store. Do NOT get one that cuts its own threads. Some have slices cut into the 'tip' of the bolt, and they will cut new threads which you don't need, as the threads you currently have are holding tight even with all the twisting you did.
Get factory OEM or equivalent, with correct threads.
You could also try a twelve point socket, next size up, crammed onto the head with a hammer to break it loose. When you have it out, you can work the plug out of the socket. May be a six point would fit. Try english {inch} as you may find one of them is just the right size to fit over your mess. There IS enough to grab onto with a wrench, and any mech that charges an arm and a leg to remove the drain plug is taking advantage.
If you do take it to a shop, BRING your OWN replacement drain that you know is correct, as many will try to use what they have on hand. This plug stays with you for the life of the truck and you don't want to mess it up with stuff pulled out of someone's junk box...
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Last edited by tomw; 06-27-2012 at 12:46 PM.
Reason: add
Another trick is to smack it hard with a heavy hammer. This will often compress the gasket under the plug and cause the threads to loosen up. The trick is getting enough of a swing at it.
It may be beneficial to put a socket, larger than the hex, up against the domed part of the plug so as to distribute the force.
__________________
2002 F350 7.3 Ltr. 6sp.DRW 270K miles, 13' service body
1952 F1 flathead Project Truck
2008 Lincoln MKX
need thermostat housing & cab 4 project
Last edited by fixnair; 06-28-2012 at 11:55 PM.
Reason: Add'l info
fixnair would you do that to a plug with a steel threads in a cast aluminum pan ? I would not know how hard to whack it. Just me. Can't speak for anyone else.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
You would have to sneak up on it. By that I mean start out by hitting it mildly hard to begin with and save the heavy blows if the softer blows do not get it.
To answer your question, yes I would hit a steel plug into an aluminum housing and have done so many times.
__________________
2002 F350 7.3 Ltr. 6sp.DRW 270K miles, 13' service body
1952 F1 flathead Project Truck
2008 Lincoln MKX
I would get a set of ViceGrips, find the appropriate size that will fit into the niche, and clamp onto the head of the plug. Rotate COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Lefty Loosey...
You should be able to break it free, and replace it with a new one from FoMoCo or an auto parts store. Do NOT get one that cuts its own threads. Some have slices cut into the 'tip' of the bolt, and they will cut new threads which you don't need, as the threads you currently have are holding tight even with all the twisting you did.
Get factory OEM or equivalent, with correct threads.
You could also try a twelve point socket, next size up, crammed onto the head with a hammer to break it loose. When you have it out, you can work the plug out of the socket. May be a six point would fit. Try english {inch} as you may find one of them is just the right size to fit over your mess. There IS enough to grab onto with a wrench, and any mech that charges an arm and a leg to remove the drain plug is taking advantage.
If you do take it to a shop, BRING your OWN replacement drain that you know is correct, as many will try to use what they have on hand. This plug stays with you for the life of the truck and you don't want to mess it up with stuff pulled out of someone's junk box...
tom
Thanks for your Ideas but it’s a bit too late, apparently there is a socket that looks like screw turned inside out on the inside. Went to the auto mechanic he pick one of them up broke it free with no trouble; since I had a new oil plug, filter, and of course the oil to boot. That help cut down the cost, still had to pay $10 labor and my pride. Thanks for the tips, never got them in time, but tried them and they didn’t work anyway.
Another trick is to smack it hard with a heavy hammer. This will often compress the gasket under the plug and cause the threads to loosen up. The trick is getting enough of a swing at it.
I see that somebody saved the day. I bet that for you, that $10 was cheap.
For future reference, you can try putting vicegrips on it and then hitting it as you are putting pressure on it. IOW, put pressure on the VGs, like you are trying to loosen it and then wack it.
If that doesn't work, take a 1/2" nut, place it over the mangled bolt and weld it on there. It will come off. There is a more to this than what I just said (standard safety precautions apply), but I guar-an-darn-tee, that if you weld a nut on the bolt, that the bolt is coming out. Also, I would consider this a last resort....especially because you have an AL pan. I sorta doubt that you'd have fire issues as the oil would prevent oxygen getting to the heat...AND, you'd go slow.
I've done the above, to get busted studs out of steel and cast...they come right out. I had a crank bolt bust...no problemo
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