.. For those that haul or tow heavy. Returned from our trip last friday and I am disappointed with the pads that are on it now. Lackluster stock pads and rotors. Some of those downhill runs were nerve racking to say the least, and stop and go traffic in some areas I could feel them fade. With the camper on I'm around 11,700 lbs or so. I've seen the adds for Hawk pads and such and just wondering who's running them and do they live up to there claims.
Thanks, Bill

 

I got them on the front with slotted rotors. I like them so much i bought another set to go on th rear that mates to some napa premium rotors that I am getting installed tomorrow

 

Good to know, I'm real close to doing front brakes myself and I'm not real thrilled with the stock ones.

 

I don't tow or haul, but I've seen no heat fade issues at all with the HAWK LTS pads on my truck. Almost seems like the hotter they get the harder they grab. Mine do have a tendency to squeal during slow speed stops when they're hot, though.

 

I just got my powerslot cryo rotors and EBC yellow pads in 2 days ago so I'll let you know how mine are but all I heard was good things about them. I heard Hawk pads are good also.

 

The NAPA store right down the road says he sells NAPA severe duty brake pads on several super dutys as well as the snap on truck. $71.00 is not bad considering I payed 89 for the hawks

 

Never tried those, I wonder if they are noticeably better than the lower grade ones.

 

I did Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads a few months ago. Big difference in braking power. Even my wife noticed right away the first time she drove it with the new brakes. And my old brakes weren't even completely worn out yet.

 

If I had not already ordered my hawks I would be trying them

 

If you're running that way then the Hawk LTS pads are a good option. They are a high metallic pad that develops higher friction with higher work/temperature. And being a very high metallic compound they have a high temperature range.

For rotors you do not need cryo, drilled or slotted rotors. Absolutely stay away from drilled rotors! Just don't go cheap and get a quality rotor. If you have the ability, a critical step that gets way overlooked by consumers and mechanics is to use a dial indicator to make sure the rotor is mounted within the runout specified in the service manual, 0.0015". Lower the better which can often be achieved by indexing the rotor.

While the Hawk LTS are very rotor abrasive, if the installed runout is excessive you still run the risk of developing thickness variation in the rotor which will cause pulsation when braking.

For you I would not screw around with any other pads.

 

I have these all-around with semi-metallic pads, plus the remanned calipers with working slide pins mad a big change. Link is in my signature.

Edit* Oh... and I have the decel tune for mountains - it works great!

 

Just got to my mechanic that's going to put my rotors on. I was talking to a motor craft guy there about my cheap rotors only lasting. 4k miles. He walked off and talked to the owner of the place. The owner came back and said he was going to swap my 30 cheap rotors for motor crafts free of charge. You can't beat that for service!!!

 

what about the upgrade brake calipers that clay sells does anyone run them, i thought they would be great for heaps of stopping power...

 

The SSBC work amazingly but they are also a little pricey. We have great luck with EBC pads and are now testing EBC rotors as well.

Riffraff Diesel: SSBC Quick Change Front Caliper Kit

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - EBC Brake Pads

 

Yes, I put in a non-EBPV pedestal over the winter and dearly wished I had that mod on this truck. Gonna rebuild the old one and put it back in just for that purpose. Had it on the nephews truck and mountains were never an issue and it being a stick shift, you could use it easily.