Rubber grommets loose
#1
Rubber grommets loose
Hey all - I dont post too often here but Im on the superduty 7.3 diesel site all the time- Anyway, I have a 2006 E-350 with 5.4 litre. Was having a clanking in the front when hitting bumps in the road. Finally found the 2 rubber or hard plastic gromets that go through the front frame were out completely. The crossover stabilizer bar was metal to metal. I hammered them back in & it is def. better now, but my question is - What holds these in place ? Seems like something is missing to me. Thanks & sorry for the long post
#2
The stabilizer bar is held in place by bushings. The upper bushings have ridges on them that the clamps seat in.
The lower bushings are held in by some form of black magic (Seriously, try changing them some time!). They are interference fit and shouldn't come out unless you are intentionally trying to remove them.
The lower bushings are held in by some form of black magic (Seriously, try changing them some time!). They are interference fit and shouldn't come out unless you are intentionally trying to remove them.
#3
The stabilizer bar is held in place by bushings. The upper bushings have ridges on them that the clamps seat in.
The lower bushings are held in by some form of black magic (Seriously, try changing them some time!). They are interference fit and shouldn't come out unless you are intentionally trying to remove them.
The lower bushings are held in by some form of black magic (Seriously, try changing them some time!). They are interference fit and shouldn't come out unless you are intentionally trying to remove them.
#4
Thanks for the pics & the quick post - The lowers are the ones that were hanging out - I wonder if the dealership took them out when I had it in about a year ago & they installed a shock assist stabilizer bar. I have never messed with them. Do you think they are wasted since they were out or will hammering them back in hold up for me. Thanks again -
#6
Here's another thread that might help too: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gger-ones.html
Those I-Beam bushings are a real PITA the first time you change them--after doing it twice myself I opted for another front sway bar design that eliminates that type of mounting point. On the whole though the factory front bar is sufficient for most drivers, assuming the bushings are in good order. Changing them to urethane is the best policy IMHO, Prothane products were my choice.
Those I-Beam bushings are a real PITA the first time you change them--after doing it twice myself I opted for another front sway bar design that eliminates that type of mounting point. On the whole though the factory front bar is sufficient for most drivers, assuming the bushings are in good order. Changing them to urethane is the best policy IMHO, Prothane products were my choice.
#7
Thanks for the link JWA -Drove it about 20 miles today & got out to check them & they popped out again. This van only has about 48k on it. This must be a pretty common problem. Guess ill give the urethane's a try. Thought about a couple worm gear clamps on the back side of the bushing but that probly wouldnt hold for long.
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#8
The bushings in the I-Beams are steel encased and pressed into the I-Beam---hammering them in will either damage them or simply wear your arm out. There obviously is a tool or process used to replace the stock style as this has to be a common problem.
The urethane parts can be installed in the driveway if necessary--only takes a bit of compatible grease and a rig of your own design and build to press or pull them into the I-Beam. U clamp bushings are easy as can be.
Here is a Prothane link, Amazon: Amazon.com: Prothane 6-1151 Red 1" Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit: Automotive
Hope this helped even a little!
The urethane parts can be installed in the driveway if necessary--only takes a bit of compatible grease and a rig of your own design and build to press or pull them into the I-Beam. U clamp bushings are easy as can be.
Here is a Prothane link, Amazon: Amazon.com: Prothane 6-1151 Red 1" Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit: Automotive
Hope this helped even a little!
#9
#10
Glad to hear this Picker----BTW what kind of axe do you pick? I've got a fleet of G&L ASAT's pre-BBE ownship, one even signed by Leo Fender. Also have a Japanese Buck Owens Tele, completely unplayed and the original brass pick guard has been personally autographed by Buck his own self!!
If I read your posts correctly the original bushings are completely missing---even the steel shells? If that's the case this will be somewhat easier as I had a tough time with hammer and chisel getting the OEM's out.
Do be careful when tightening the U clamp frame bolts----one of mine stripped out quite easily. Its since been repaired and working fine but what a disappointment even when being careful to not over tighten anything.
Let us know how this goes----always good to hear of others experiences!
If I read your posts correctly the original bushings are completely missing---even the steel shells? If that's the case this will be somewhat easier as I had a tough time with hammer and chisel getting the OEM's out.
Do be careful when tightening the U clamp frame bolts----one of mine stripped out quite easily. Its since been repaired and working fine but what a disappointment even when being careful to not over tighten anything.
Let us know how this goes----always good to hear of others experiences!
#11
JWA - I've got a Dean 6 string acoustic( my favorite camping guitbox) and an Ibanez Prestige electric with the Wizard neck - Recently sold my Fender American Strat - Still kicking myself for that one but I actually made money on the deal,& enjoyed it for several years b4 selling it. That Buck Owens sounds cool. Never played a tele but like the sound- One of these days! Btw I do still have the bushings(they just keep coming out ) & the shells are still in place, so it should be a pretty easy replace- I Hope - I'll update after its finished - Thanks again & keep pickin
#12
Well - Got all the new bushings installed - Those lower ones are a SOG to say the least - First one took me about 2-1/2 hours to get installed - Kept wanted to go in ****-eyed. Second one wasnt much easier. Then finally I thought I'm home free, the easy part. Not quite - The sway bar install was another story. Those prothane bushings are tight & kept pushing the sway bar back out. Then I went to my shop & got my trusty 3/4" pipe clamps. This did the trick- Did each side a little at a time & viola- She rides like a new one again, no more klanking every time you hit a bump. Thanks for all the help here on this one !!
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ChooChoo Electric
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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04-10-2019 04:50 AM