Hi, everybody I'm Chris and recently bought a 1964 LWB custom cab.The 292 that's in it will fire and probably run with a new fuel pump but the oil was milky and had a lot of water and possibly coolant mixed in.

I also have a 1966 F250 that origanlly had a 240 that was swapped with a 352.The 240 is good with less than 50,000 miles on it.

How can I swap the 292 for the 240? The 292 is bolted to a t98.
I would just rebuild and keep the truck original but the funds are'nt availble right now.

 

I've done quite a bit of searching and have'nt come up with much luck.The old truck is really straight with zero rust through. I'm trying to save the old girl, put some fresh paint on and find her a good home. Is there any way to bolt up the 240 to a t98(adapters)? Can the fe swap brace for the 61-64 be used for the motor mounts?

 

If you guys have any inexpensive ideas for the 292 I'd like to hear those too.

 

Well I guess this isn't a real hot topic. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?

 

Unfortunately, this swap isn't possible. The motor mounts and bell housing mounts won't allow for it, at least as a bolt-up solution.
However, it might be feasible to put in a 240/NP435 combination in your '64.
Ford changed everything under the hood in '64. Almost nothing swaps over.

 

Thanks for the response. I do have a t18 but thats for my 66. When I bought the 352 for it I also got a 3spd tranny that is probably a 3.03. Can't confirm that until tomorrow. Do you think the 240 and the 3.03 will work in the 64 as a floor shift?

 

Well it looks like the 292 may be okay after all! I'm working on the brakes now so it's more road worthy. I can't really explain it I just changed the old milky oil with some fresh,ran it some changed it again with no problems and then put some water in the radiator and the oil still looks good after 2+ gal of gas. I'm also thinking of keeping it and selling my 86 f250.

 

Y blocks are tough, I wondered about that. See how much vacuum it pulls at idle with a gauge. They aren't known for gobs of power but they are reliable.

 

You'll need a T-18 4 speed and a bellhousing for your 240 and you'll also need a transmission mount crossmember which is bolt on/off. With a little scrounging, you should find one at a salvage yard.

 

The 292 seems to be doing okay.Think l like the thought of keeping it original any way.The gas tank was loaded with rust so I borrowed the one from my 66 F250. Still needs the ignition and carb gone through but it should be hitting the road in the next week or so.

Thanks to everyone who replied. That's what makes FTE the my go to place when I need some info on my trucks.

 

Y blocks are an old design as far as the breathing system. If they are run for a few minutes and shut down, over time condensation will form. This will show up as snotty looking stuff in the oil filler pipe and on the upper part of the dip stick. Also if one has sat for a while it to can condensate.
Change the oil, let it run for at least 20 minutes at a time so it cooks off the condensation and keep an eye on it. It should be fine.

What you asked can be done but it requires the use of rare big truck parts. Some of the later big trucks used the eared bell housing with the 240/300. These will also bolt to a smallblock Ford. To do it though requires finding those parts and maybe some modification. For a quick inexpensive repair without searching the planet for rare parts, simply repairing the Y if it needs it or going with a later transmission for the 240 is by far the easiest fix.

 

Thanks for the info on the y blocks. The condensation part makes sense to me and I am not sure how much could have accumulated over the 10 or so years the truck sat dormant. All I can say is approximately 2 1/2 gallons of liquid came out on the first drain. First it was water and maybe coolant mixture then a milky substance.
It freaked me out and made my heart sink a little. With low expectations I put oil in it and got it to fire. At this point it was running on hand feed gas. Then I put some gas in the tank and had to put a different fuel pump on. The carb needs rebuilt so it was swapped with another one.
It's running okay at this point now to fix the brakes. Got the brakes working (just bled them and got some pedal ). Now to take it for a short spin. Real rough but under it's own steam. The truck had all or most of its weight set on the drive shaft at some point and was bent pretty bad so I took it to get a new tube. Now it's more road worthy but the motor was still running rough and wouldn't idle very well. The ignition still needs going through but I decided to adjust the valves (my first time ever) so I watched a how to video on YouTube and went to work. When I removed the first cover the rockers on cylinders 5 and 6 were pretty rusty(flakey kind) 7and 8 looked good ,more of the same on the other side 1 and 2 rusty 3 and 4 good. Went ahead and adjusted them, most were tight. Set them to .018 the video said factory was .019 but with a stock set up .015 would quiet things down.
Now it's holding an idle and real close to what I consider running good.The ignition is next on my list.
Any ideas on how this thing is running this good with the rust in the top of the motor? This thing doesn't smoke at all.

 

It is because it is a Y-Block .

The next step is to make sure oil is getting to the top end. After you have put a few miles on it, pull the valve covers and make sure everything is wet with oil. If not, you can get by with manual oiling but you will need to address the issue.

 

My '56 F100 with a 272 I had back in 1985-87 did the condensation thing. Yet I never had a problem with it. Get on the interstate and punch it.
1985-86: the last two years of the double nickel speed limit in my state.

 

After I adjusted the valves I ran it with the covers off and it seemed to be oiling better.