maybe these will make things clearer for the stock starter setup. One these should be what you're dealing with I should think. I believe it was "Julie" that originally posted these.

 

who checked your battery, and how did they do it? if it was the pimply faced kid at the auto store he might be clueless. I can't count the number of times I've heard people insist the battery was fine only to have it be badly discharged. Did you put it on the charger after the problem occurred? A bad ground connection can mimic a dead battery too. Are the terminals clean and where the battery cable attaches to the the truck's frame good?

 

Okay guys I got an update! So I hooked my battery back up and I turned my key an I had power! I even had power to my wipers and air conditioning which haven't worked I'n a while! So then I go to push the start button and I lose total power an I have to reconnect my hot wire to get the power to start again. What the heck?

 

Bad connection some where. Check all the connecting points of the ground straps, and battery cables. My 1991 F-250 does that exact same thing, I need to wiggle the battery cable to get it to start. I haven't gotten around to new cables yet, as I know they are no good.

 

Yep.. You definately have a short/grounding issue. Ensure that you have good engine to frame, and frame to body grounds. Not just some wimpy wire, but good cable sized stuff. Make sure the soleniod is mounted good and tight and that the mounting ear has good contact with metal.

Sounds like you probably have a 12V neg ground system, since you mention having A/C. Good grounds are key to having any electrical system reliable.

 

when that happens to me, its usually the main ground cable on the battery. Do you have any of those cheapy battery end clamps that have the bolt down crimp? if you do, throw that junk away! Oh i don't know how many times I have had to deal with those! I hate them! ok well maybe HATE is too strong, but...

 

Alright guys well I went and got the battery tested again! And the battery had no amps so the battery was no good!

 

Back to day one. You again had a good system until you engaged the starter. I think maybe either the wire between the solonoid and the starter maybe shorted to the frame,engine or starter case or the starter may have a internal short. Please don't install a new battery and attempt to start again without repairing the problem. chuck

 

This thread is becoming a good argument for a battery cut-out switch. I also noticed that in the '53-'55 stock wiring that there is no breaker or fuse between the hot power lead from the battery side of the solenoid all the way thru the amp meter, to the breaker on the back of the instrument cluster. And that breaker automatically resets on it's own. Finding some sort of fuse to put in that line close to the solenoid is on my long list of things to do.

 

that's what i'm thinking. cable from solenoid to starter is fried. if the truck was trying to start continuously it had to cook something between the battery and the starter.
this is just a symptom of the original problem, though. you started with a bad switch or a short somewhere related to that switch.
i'm betting you have the original problem plus everything caused by it.

 

I had my starter tested and it is good. I'm thinking it did that because the solenoid was arced. But I will check up on the cables
QUOTE=49fordpickumup;10829800]Back to day one. You again had a good system until you engaged the starter. I think maybe either the wire between the solonoid and the starter maybe shorted to the frame,engine or starter case or the starter may have a internal short. Please don't install a new battery and attempt to start again without repairing the problem. chuck[/QUOTE]

 

I agree! I had a similar problem, and it was because the positive starter cable terminal was arching to the block. It was about 1mm from the block, and did not present any problems for a long time, until 1 day.