I have an '06 F-250SD PS and a new 37' fifth wheel trailer (less than max weight for my truck). I experience a fair amount of "chucking" when I start or stop. The dealer says to dial up the level on the integrated brake controller, which I have done. It is running at 9.5.
I guess my question deals with how the brake controller interacts with the TOW/HAUL mode. Part of the braking done by the truck is thru engine braking and automatic gear changing. If the engine is slowing the truck/trailer, is any proportional brake signal being sent to the trailer brakes? Is the truck doing most of the braking? Do I need to dial it up even more?

 

They should BOTH be providing about the same amount of braking.... tow/haul feature simply helps conserve your front brake pads! As the controller is brake pedal actuated, I don't THINK that the TOW/HAUL feature changes the I.B.C. controls.

As the towed vehicles can get pretty darned heavy now, I think you will find that having the controller all the way up to 10 would be uncommon. I only have a 30' 5er and mine is at 10.... feels the best for me. You can't go by what someone else says/does tho.... ya gotta go by what is best for YOU!

 

I have my controller at 3.5 and I come in around 14K for my 5er...so as bud said, do what works for you...let me tell you a story though.

Early this spring I get the 5er out and it seems like I need to up the power on the TBC. So I adjust the brakes...no change.

Then I get near each drum and have my oldest boy step on the brakes. Quick check for buzzing at each drum. Both rears, no power so no brakes. Somehow had a crushed wire.

So check for some buzzing, brake adjustments and run it what works for you.

 

I just use the manual control after I first start out each day..... If it's working, you'll know!

 

I am new to the SD trucks and I was wondering if the IBC was OK to run or should I run my Tekonsha P2 instead? I currently have a 28' TT coming in at ~8K lbs, but a heavier 5'er will probably replace it in a few years now that I have the power to pull.

 

Put the P2 on the shelf. The factory TBC works extremely well. It will also add the trailer brakes to the abs system.

You don't get a bunch of jerking with the factory TBC.

 

Thanks for the info! Can't wait to get this pig hooked up and see how she does with the trailer.

 

I know I am odd man out on this one, but now having an almost new F150 with the built-in controller as well as my Hayes G2 contoller in my F350 and I can tell no difference in tow braking. Not downing the builit-in in terms of brake control, it does fine, but my Hayes gives me so much diagnostic information. I would never take the built-in out, but I also would never put one in.

Of course, I realize this is in no way scientific as I am comparing braking with two different trucks. Both do really well and the controller action is entirely undetectable, but I really like having all the information at hand of the after-market controller. It seems to me like troubleshooting the built-in continues to remain a struggle, even for the dealerships, at least from the posts to FTE.

I am, by the way, in love with my F150. It is my daily work truck and as long as the weight isn't extreme, I hook whatever I need to on the back. It replaces my 2003 GMC 3/4 ton that did well until 190,000, then basically self-destructed.

Just my thoughts,

Steve

 

Jimmy, your IBC was designed/build by Tekonsha for Ford. You already have the best of both worlds.

 

Sweet, thanks!

 

I don't think we got your question answered. So here it is. If you are slowing down due to engine braking or downshifting, your IBC will not apply the trailer brakes. Your IBC controller only applies brakes to the trailer when you are pressing the service brakes, and it works based on the hydraulic brake pressure. The harder you push with your right foot, the harder the trailer brakes. No brake pedal, no trailer brakes.