I cannot figure out how to rotate/adjust the piece behind the belt adjuster
to remove a final bolt to replace the water pump?

Should I be removing the front cover assembly to replace the water pump?

 

2.3L, 3.0L or 4.0L????

 

I appreciate the response

 

Tfingle,
I did my water pump last year. 1993 - 3.0. All I had to do was remove the serpentine belt, the fan clutch and the pulley on the water pump to expose all the bolts. I think there were 5 or 6 bolts. I'm not sure what front cover assembly you are removing. Is the belt tensioner in the way? I not sure if something changed from the 93 model to the 94. It was a pretty straight forward repair. Hope this helps.

Brian

 

thanks brichardson. there is a casing or bracket that seems to be attached to either the engine block, of holding the rest of the pulleys? This is blocking the removal of the last bolt. I guess I will have to dig deeper. thanks again.

 

i just had my water pump replaced in my 94 3.0 two years ago, i had some one do it for me, but a haynes manual is a help if your still looking to do it yourself. here is some insite out of my haynes.

Remove alternator and mounting bracket from water pump
remove a/c compressor mounting bracket with compressor and power steering pump still attached


then that should open up the bolts for you, i hope it works.

 

I just bought a high mileage 3.0L and was investigating the water pump/timing chain cover gasket/timing chain procedure. Questions:

1) On a '98 5speed, 4x4, 3.0L, is it necessary to remove the oil pan to change the timing chain (as per the Haynes Manual; they don't show it well in pictures)?

2) Is it really necessary to pull the engine to remove the oil pan on the 4x4 model (again, as per Haynes)?

3) Is the timing chain a concern after a certain amount of miles on this engine?

Thanks,
Jim

 

Hi PSKSAM2 and welcome to FTE

Are you thinking of doing the timing chain just because? Or is there a problem?
According to the Ford <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">shop manual</a> you can do the oil pan without removing the engine but you have to remove the front diff assembly and then lift the engine up a ways.
The manual says to remove the oil pan to remove the timing cover but I'm not sure that you really have to. The oil pan gasket might stay in place ok and with a little dob of silicone in each corner you might be ok.
I dont remember ever seeing a timing chain worn out on a 3L. I'm not positive but I think it is probably a double roller chain and even when they are falling off loose they still dont jump.

 

Thanks for the reply and the welcome!

I had an '89 3.0L V6 in a Mercury Sable in high school and I remember doing the water pump and having someone ask me why I didn't replace the timing chain at the same time. I was making a list of the things I want/might need to do to the truck once it is fully in my hands and I put that down. But if you say that the timing chain is beefy and not worth the hassle, all the better!