I have looked through every post and idea possible with no remedy for my no start condition. I have tried everything that I am capable of doing without diagnostic computers and other specialized tools. A little history of what happened. While idling in the parking lot for a few minutes, truck all of the sudden start running rough, and acts like it is going to quit. Hurried out of the parking lot to make sure that I made it home, but the the truck would only get up to about 25 MPH, but I finally made it home(about 3-4 miles). NOW, the truck won't start at all, but just cranks. Some more detail about how it cranks. It cranks fast, I separated the batteries by disconnecting the grounds on each, and made sure both are charged. Batteries are only 3 months old from Ford Dealership. As the engine cranks, oil pressure registers after a little while, (longer the first time for some reason), and as soon as oil pressure shows up on the dash indicator, black smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. The engine is trying to start a little bit, but it mostly just cranks.

Things that I've done:
Changed fuel filters, Motorcraft (new orings). At first the pump was pumping large bubbles through the line up into the upper fuel filter, but after sitting it appears that it is not pumping bubbles anymore, and I cycled the Key more than 10 times. Did the bubble test while upper filter was removed. Unplugged ICP sensor. Pulled EGR, installed new one. Pulled oil filter and made sure that oil is pumpingChecked FICM voltage, with key on Injectors buzzing, also engine cranking for quite a while. Never dropped below 48.5 V. Pulled FICM just incase and performed repair procedure, still same volts and no start. Coolant level is good. Checked oil level. unplugged EGR. Checked filter Minder. checked for chafing on FICM harness. Unplugged MAF. Checked FICM relay operation, Fuses all around.I have run out of ideas. Let me know what I am missing!! Thanks in advance for any ideas at all, I need this truck to run.
Thanks!!!!

 

Get the codes read if you can. You should be able to borrow one from an autoparts store. I am wondering what your ICP reading is - ie whether or not you are getting the necessary HP oil pressure to start.

Compliments to you for all the troubleshooting though!

 

I had the same issue about 3 weeks ago. It wound up the FICM was bad. $1200 later all is good again.

FWIW, I called Ford and they are going to give me $600 back. :-)

 

Well katiesdad7 you were right. I finally ended up taking it to a Ford mechanic who hooked up the computer which showed that 4 injectors were not firing. He said that 4 injectors don't all of the sudden go bad, and reasoned that the FICM was bad even though it was outputting 48.5 volts all of the time. So, he put a new FICM in and the truck fired right up. He said that he could tell that it wasn't running right still and hooked the computer back up again and it said that one of the injectors had some kind of electrical short or fault, and he confirmed by hooking up a known good working injector to the harness which cleared up the code. So, now he is going to put in an injector and everything should be fixed until the next breakdown. He also mentioned that maybe the bad injector may have caused the FICM to go bad, (just a guess). Price was $1050 installed with new FICM and injector out the door.
Thanks for your input too Bismic, I have read through a lot of your previous posts on the forums and you are one educated individual. I did have the same curiosity towards my IPC and HPOP pressure. I know the fitting is the same to test the Fuel Pressure as well as the IPC pressure, do you know where to get that fitting, and also what kind of gauge to buy that can read 500+ PSI for the HPOP pressure. I have a fuel pressure tester but it doesn't go near that high.
Final question, should I sell this truck while it is still running, and before my next $1000 dollar breakdown, or keep it thinking that it will be trouble free for at least a little while?
Anyways, thanks again for both of your inputs, it was much appreciated.

 

When a whole bank of cylinders is not firing and the FICM voltage is good, you can pretty well be sure that the FICM (which I think have 2 "pairs" of circuits) have something critical fried.

There are a lot of bad FICMs floating around the aftermarket -- beware.

 

That is interesting regarding the bad FICM's floating around. I have seen a few used one's on eBay and thought, why is someone selling a used FICM, other than from a junk yard or something.
Another thing that came up during this fix was that the 4 injectors that were not firing were from two different plugs that plug into the FICM. So that kind of ruled out the wiring harness, but I also have one plug that both of the tabs that hold it on are broken. Is it worth buying a new harness or should I try the wire tie thing? The mechanic said that the wire tie would get me by for now, and it is up to me whether or not I want to get a new harness. I am trying to figure out exactly at what point to stop trying to make the truck better.

 

IMHO, I would buy a new wiring harness if the price is anything reasonable (e.g. under $300).

Many of the eBay FICMs are from people who tried to mod them... like the infamous "hot" FICM mod and failed, or the infamous "upgrade" that replaced the Capacitors with LOWER temperature rated parts in an application that is already marginal in its temperature tolerance.

My rule:

Never get a used FICM from someone you don't know and whose parts history is not completely known to you.

i.e. why did they remove it?

If you got a junk yard part, take the time to open it up, and verify that the parts have not been modded, or have signs of being tweaked --- and at same time, reflow the solder.

i.e. Never buy a used FICM you cannot open up and validate.

A FICM from a wrecked E van is a pretty good bet from your neighborhood junk yard where you can call up the owner of the van and ask about the part --- but I wouldn't touch a eBay one.

Make up your mind re the wire tie --- I have done plenty of bailing wire repairs, and am sympathetic to the plight of not wanting to spend $$$.

But suit yourself --- and know you got a kludge if it ever failed in the field.


BTW, all wiring and connectors are not born equal --- it is one of the most critical parts in the system.

Quality connectors and wiring and building good harnesses and testing them cost $$$, for a reason.

 

This is the same exact symptoms I have going on right now waiting on my ficm to come in Ford put it on the computer and they say this is what the problem is

 

If I were you, I'd replace the Fuel injector harness (the back two connectors on the FICM). It is a fairly cheap and easy job. If it was the front connector though, I'd consider just the connector. The front connector main harness is much more expensive and labor intensive to swap.

I just inspected my harness on my 2005, there are multiple areas where they are wearing. I plan on spending a Saturday morning going through these areas and adding tape and tie wraps to prevent future damage. These harness don't improve with time.

 

I have to give the local Ford guy some credit I put in new fuel filters oil filters and FICM and 2 new batteries crank the key about 8 times for the fuel filter and it fired right up 1200 dollars later