Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Performance & General Engine Building
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 11-14-2010, 12:51 PM
Aaron-71's Avatar
Aaron-71 Aaron-71 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,034
Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.
351W -> 393W. Is a "cheap" build possible?

I'm looking to take my 351W and make it into a 393W without breaking the bank, or my truck.

Right now I've got an old early 70's 351W and an FMX transmission, both from an early 70's cougar.

Both the FMX and 351 need to be rebuilt, so I'm looking into my options of getting a little more power out of my truck.

The vehicle the engine and tranny are going into is:
1978 F-150 Ranger Lariat
Regular Cab, Long Box
Currently all stock (with the exception of 351 and FMX)


Anyone have any iformation on this type of thing? I'm not really proficient with engines yet, but I'm looking to get my hands dirty.

What I'm looking for is prices, options (I realise this is a broad question), and basically what needs to be done.

This truck will become a daily driver/towing/hauling truck, but with a 393, I'm hoping to give it some bigger *****.
__________________
-= Caution: Man at work =-
1978 F-150 Lariat, Reg. Cab, Long Bed
351 Windsor (1972), 2-barrel, FMX, 2WD
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxlmariuslxl
Aaron, you are the man.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-14-2010, 03:53 PM
USArmyTaterness's Avatar
USArmyTaterness USArmyTaterness is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Schweinfurt Germany
Posts: 1,529
USArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud of
Dewain Zeglin Fluffythund3r
What is your budget making a 393W could be done a few different ways.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-14-2010, 04:27 PM
85e150six4mtod 85e150six4mtod is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,215
85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation
First off, do a little research:

Just searching "351w stroker" pops up quite a bit:

Building Ford 351W Stroker Engines

Stroking the 351W

Top 10 Tips for Building for your first 351W Stroker - Street Legal TV Forums

Kits:

Scat Ford Stroker Kits 351W to 408 from RPM Machines.

FordStrokers.com 331-347-408-418-427 Custom Built Small Block Ford Engines - Ford Stroker Kits :: Coast High Performance Rotating Assemblies :: 351 Windsor Stroker Kits

Flatlander Racing - Ford Stroker Kits

351W Stroker Kits - NorthCoast Performance - Ford and Mustang Specialists -

There are pages and pages.

Keep in mind these are new, complete kits. In your other thread, a post suggest you can find a crank on ebay for $200, use stock rods and 302 pistons. I think you probably can do that, but first you have to find that perfectly good crank on ebay......
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-14-2010, 06:41 PM
USArmyTaterness's Avatar
USArmyTaterness USArmyTaterness is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Schweinfurt Germany
Posts: 1,529
USArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud ofUSArmyTaterness has much to be proud of
Dewain Zeglin Fluffythund3r
Beware of Ebay for car parts as clichéd as it is people lie and youmay not get a "new" part but a "newly" cleaned part
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-14-2010, 09:55 PM
Aaron-71's Avatar
Aaron-71 Aaron-71 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,034
Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by USArmyTaterness View Post
Beware of Ebay for car parts as clichéd as it is people lie and youmay not get a "new" part but a "newly" cleaned part
Thanks for the suggestions. I've had many Ebay woes before, so I'm very aware of Ebay. Thanks also for looking into my other posts, it helps haha.

My budget is endless right now, but my purpose isn't.

This is basically what I want to get it to:
1) More power
2) Same mileage or better
3) Can be used as a daily driver, and doesn't make the cops want to pull you over...
4) I would like to go with something that doesn't make me need to "beef up" my FMX tranny. It needs a rebuild anyways, but I'm not looking to spend like 5-6 grand on my tranny just because my engine has a lil more power.
5) I don't mind having to change my gear ratio, but I'd like to stay away from something I know zero about (same goes for tires).
6) What I'm looking for is a stock height (maybe a 2" lift just to offset myself from a crowd), 2WD build that doesn't need a whole lot of mods to the rest of the truck after I'm done modding the engine out the way I want it.

Basically, a cheap, but more powerful engine that's a daily driver. 2wd currently... considered 4wd (but I don't think it's really what I need). The truck will never be mudded or bagged really hard. Just meant to be able to tow anything I need on a flatbed or motorcycle trailer, but without dying while going up a hill or have problems of any sort while under load.

Anyone have any suggestions?

As I said, the engine needs a rebuild anyways, and so does the tranny... so I figured, hell... why not add a little power so I can squeal the tires when I want, but not have to break the bank getting to be able to do that.

I've read up on the 393 builds, and MANY of them are meant for racing and/or pleasure of destroying someone at the lights... This isn't what I want...

I basically want the watered down 393 version of engine that doesn't give 750hp to the wheels, but also doesn't make me spend over $6000 for the tranny and engine rebuild.

Am I being realistic with $6,000 for both tranny and engine?
__________________
-= Caution: Man at work =-
1978 F-150 Lariat, Reg. Cab, Long Bed
351 Windsor (1972), 2-barrel, FMX, 2WD
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxlmariuslxl
Aaron, you are the man.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:13 PM
85e150six4mtod 85e150six4mtod is online now
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,215
85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation85e150six4mtod has a superb reputation
The thing that makes a tire fryer out of a 393 is the cam for the most part. For example, a 2bbl 390 pickup engine is a pretty docile beast, due to the low compression, roundish cam and small carb. Peaks out at what, 4400 rpm?

Sooo, take the 351w and add some stroke out to 393. Replace everything else as stock. You'll have a bit more power and it will come on at lower rpms. You have to watch the CR here, as a little puppy of a cam won't bleed off cylinder pressure like a lumpy one, so figure 9-9.5 max.

You can ratchet up the power with better heads, more agressive cam, manifolding etc.

As for your trans, fwiw, I would simply find a good C6. And I'd find a 351w block and start from scratch and just replace the whole works.

I think you can do a lot with $6000 if you plan it right.

Regarding ebay--you've seen the cost of the kits. Why would someone let a perfect crank for for cheap? Maybe it ain't so perfect.

Plan it out and cost it out--you can do that for free before you start dumping money into it.

Other question, and don't get me wrong. I know your truck is some valuable collector's item, but to me--. So with your truck sold to some unsuspecting collector and $6000, what could you buy?

Just a thought. They ain't Faberge eggs or nuthin'.....
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:30 PM
Conanski's Avatar
Conanski Conanski is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 20,587
Conanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud ofConanski has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
This is basically what I want to get it to:
1) More power?
Well that's easy just let it breath.. ie: better than stock cam, heads, and exhaust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
2) Same mileage or better?
Yeah that's possible if you build it with a TQ biased powerband, but if you really want "fuel milage" you'll go find a transmission with overdrive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
3) Can be used as a daily driver, and doesn't make the cops want to pull you over...?
No problem.. just put quiet mufflers on it and whatever you do.. don't paint it red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
4) I would like to go with something that doesn't make me need to "beef up" my FMX tranny. ?
Well now you're being silly. Doesn't matter what trans you start with it will need to be beefed up a bit, that doesn't mean spend $5k on it that just means use high quality parts and address and trans specific weaknesses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
5) I don't mind having to change my gear ratio, but I'd like to stay away from something I know zero about ?
Well.. depends what gear ratio you're starting with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron-71 View Post
Am I being realistic with $6,000 for both tranny and engine?
6 Grand!! That's more than what I would consider for a "budget" build and I think you can do it for significantly less.
__________________
Paul (Conan) O'Brien

1990 5.0HO AOD XLT X-Cab F150 3.55LS, 1994 3.0L 5-sp x-cab Ranger 3.45, 2004 3.0L 5-sp X-cab Ranger Edge 4.10, 2004 2.5L 5-spd Subaru Legacy
1996 Kawasaki ZX11D, 2004 Honda 599, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-14-2010, 10:56 PM
Aaron-71's Avatar
Aaron-71 Aaron-71 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,034
Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod View Post
The thing that makes a tire fryer out of a 393 is the cam for the most part. For example, a 2bbl 390 pickup engine is a pretty docile beast, due to the low compression, roundish cam and small carb. Peaks out at what, 4400 rpm?

Sooo, take the 351w and add some stroke out to 393. Replace everything else as stock. You'll have a bit more power and it will come on at lower rpms. You have to watch the CR here, as a little puppy of a cam won't bleed off cylinder pressure like a lumpy one, so figure 9-9.5 max.

You can ratchet up the power with better heads, more agressive cam, manifolding etc.

As for your trans, fwiw, I would simply find a good C6. And I'd find a 351w block and start from scratch and just replace the whole works.

I agree with you up to this part. Isn't this just causing more hassle for me? I mean, I wouldn't mind getting a brand new block... but that's bloody costly and directs my cost away from mods and would basically quarter it, wouldn't it?

I think you can do a lot with $6000 if you plan it right.

I agree. 6000 is a lot of money. If I really wanted to do something right, I'm sure I could get it under 6 grand easily.... IF PLANNED.

Regarding ebay--you've seen the cost of the kits. Why would someone let a perfect crank for for cheap? Maybe it ain't so perfect.

Yeah, I've heard about this... I looked at "kits" which were 1 grand... just starting pieces... May or may not be the best choice, but it was from a parts dealer (still doesn't mean they don't do the same thing those Ebay fiends do).

Plan it out and cost it out--you can do that for free before you start dumping money into it.

Definitely looked into this just recently since I found out about the stroker 351W's. I always plan ahead before I leap. No worries there... Good suggestion though.

Other question, and don't get me wrong. I know your truck is some valuable collector's item, but to me--. So with your truck sold to some unsuspecting collector and $6000, what could you buy?

I see what you mean. Where else could this money be used "INSTEAD OF" a bigger 351W? I'm not sure where else really. I don't think I'm going to sell the truck anytime soon, so that's not really an issue. For other purposes, this is a project I've been itching to get at for years.... University isn't cheap, but I wouldn't mind getting things started now, or at least planned out so that future mods can be made with ease and more knowledge.

The basics of what I'm trying to get out of my truck is knowledge and have a little fun doing it. I'm just exploring my horizons with this truck because I sort of fell into it over last summer and now I've fallen in love with it and what I can do with an old beast like a 78 Ranger F-150.

If I had to pick something off the top of my head for where the money would go if I sold the truck or where it would go instead of a stroker... I'd say motorcycle, newer vehicle (something from 2005+)... my current car is a "grocery getter" from 1996... or after I'm done school, for my payments...

School payments and newer vehicle/newer motorcycle isn't really in reach, so I think it's best spent or it'll just sit in bank account haha.

Just a thought. They ain't Faberge eggs or nuthin'.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Conanski View Post
Well that's easy just let it breath.. ie: better than stock cam, heads, and exhaust.


Yeah that's possible if you build it with a TQ biased powerband, but if you really want "fuel milage" you'll go find a transmission with overdrive.

Well I'm not looking for no Turbo Cummins here with 28 mpg... just not a massive decrease in my mileage. I don't want to have to fill up a 40 gallon daily driver every time I pass a gas station.

No problem.. just put quiet mufflers on it and whatever you do.. don't paint it red.

I've had red vehicles... I understand your statement completely haha. This truck will be a deep rainforest green with a possible tutone tan, silver or white. Still leaning on just 1 colour, but I'm prepared for 2...

Well now you're being silly. Doesn't matter what trans you start with it will need to be beefed up a bit, that doesn't mean spend $5k on it that just means use high quality parts and address and trans specific weaknesses.

Well.. depends what gear ratio you're starting with.

This question I can't even answer. I'm too much of a newbie to my own vehicle to understand or comprehend the gear ratio. I'm sure it's not hard to find out, but I'd be killed if held at gun point and asked how to find it...

6 Grand!! That's more than what I would consider for a "budget" build and I think you can do it for significantly less.

Music to my ears. That's good to hear. I threw a value out there because I live in Canada and what most folks around here say (form the states) isn't exactly realistic where I live.... Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada.

Think I could do my build for a measely 3 grand? Tranny and all the fixin's included?

So I read up on what someone else had posted for advice on reading materials... Thanks! It helped a lot!

What I'm looking for is a longer stroked 351W for a daily driver that gives me that large torque and power at lower RPMS. This vehicle won't be screaming "mercy" when it hits 7K RPM simply because it'll never get there.

To me it looks like I should try to build a 408W because it hits up to 500 hp but is seen as a daily driver that doesn't really go anywhere near 5K rpm.

I do however want "a smile that comes to your face when you mash the pedal".

Mashing the pedal won't be done a whole lot, but it sucks not being able to do it period haha.
__________________
-= Caution: Man at work =-
1978 F-150 Lariat, Reg. Cab, Long Bed
351 Windsor (1972), 2-barrel, FMX, 2WD
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxlmariuslxl
Aaron, you are the man.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:52 AM
gazguzzler's Avatar
gazguzzler gazguzzler is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Seal beach
Posts: 31
gazguzzler is starting off with a positive reputation.
408 info.

Hi New to the board. Spent most of my life in preformance engines. 408,s are torque monsters. Spend the dough on a kit. I sold for Scat. The cast crank I beam rod kit is great. easy 600 hp level. 2 different blocks late and early. Deck heights are 9,48 and 9.50. 9,5 deck lets you square cut the block deck. Spend the money on a port job on the heads or home grow it. Get rid of the EGR lump in the exhaust port and open up the hole to 1 1/2 inches square. Make sure your exhaust manifold is matched.Don't go crazy on valve sizes. 1.95 and 1.5 valves will work. Just light bowl blend is plenty. Try to keep the pistons close to the heads. .040 piston to head is just about right with a dish piston. A Comp 268 magnum flat tappet hyd workd fine. Install it straight up dot to dot. Make sure the block is clearanced for the rod bolts. Easy home job with a dremel.Max 750 carb. RPM air gap. Get 28 oz balance. should work with your damper and flywheel.
set timing to be all in at 3000 and about 38 total. Shoul be a very docile tire burner that gets ok mileage. Cost is same as 393 but has more piston shoices. Hope this helps some.
Bob
BTW a 393 uses a 302 piston and a stroker crank with a 351 rod.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-21-2011, 12:20 PM
yamahacrash yamahacrash is offline
New User
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 16
yamahacrash is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you gazguzzler, for awesome advice. What do you mean by "more piston choices" I have 1991 351W carbed, with a RPM air gap, GT40 heads. Plan to build a 408 stroker for my 1966 F100 4X4. Want very driveable with ok mileage.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-25-2011, 11:27 AM
FordMuddin''s Avatar
FordMuddin' FordMuddin' is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 331
FordMuddin' is starting off with a positive reputation.
i am about to do a 393 windsor build aswell on a budget for my daily driver f250 mud truck. My build plans consist of, eagle cast 3.85 crank ($275), eagle I beam stock length rods, 5.956 in ($265) with KB hypereutectic pistons with a 22.00cc dish to accomodate my 58cc word windsor JR heads which i got off CL for 500 dollars with 1.6 RR (will keep CR around 9:5:1 for pump gas). Most say to use forged pistons with a 393 build but i feel as though the hypereutectic will work fine for my application. For cam i am eaither runnin the 268H or 270 comp cam. This build is cheap, i priced it out alongside my orriginal 357w build plans and the only additional costs were the price of the crank and rods vs having the crank and rods machined (reusing your stock rods is fine with the 393 too but im opting to get new rods) and the 28oz imbalance along with having the rotating assembly balanced, the difference was probably about 400 dollars for a stroker vs no stroker build. I am going to run a 670 truck demon carb with the weiand stealth intake, in total, for my build along with swapping over from speed density EFI to carb, the build should be around 3500-4000 dollars. A cheap build for a 400hp motor with a good street performance while still being able to turn 6000.
__________________
89' F250 357w world windsor jr heads, roller rockers on sd. Rear shackle flip, 6" superduty lift in front homemade RSK with Dana 60 SAS. 38x15x16.5 TSL
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fdNJn43yicQ
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-25-2011, 11:33 AM
jokerforever's Avatar
jokerforever jokerforever is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 795
jokerforever is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.jokerforever is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I'd like to offer two suggestions that haven't been addressed: the 400 and 460. Hear me out now. We all know what a 460 is and how great of an engine it is. With a $6K budget it would be easy to find a good useable engine and trans and track down the parts to swap it in. This is kind of the opposite of what I usually suggest. Most of the time I tell folks to use what they have because it's just so much easier. But in this case it looks like you don't want a barn burner, just a better tow rig/driver. That would be a lot easier and possibly cheaper to just slap in a refreshed 460/C6 combo than to install a stroker and getting it set up right. Plus slightly worked over but mild 460 will put out so much power without even trying. There is also so much more in there than a stroked small block could ever offer and it gives you some place to go when it’s time to upgrade again in a few years.

Then theres the 400. This is a very underrated motor and could very be what you're looking for. It never reached its full potential in stock form and with a bump in compression and a cam change will easily hit the 400 HP mark. Plus with its 4" stroke it has more torque potential than a 393s with its 3.85 crank. The best thing about the 400 is those wonderful Cleveland head topping it. No stock SBF heads will flow as much as these heads and that just translate into more power. 400s are everywhere and cheap. Hell, I've even had people give them to me before. You can pull one with a C6 out of any T-bird, Lincoln or pickup from the 70s. Find a set of flat top pistons, stab in a slightly warmer cam straight up (what killed the stock engines was the smog based retarded cams) and just refresh the rest of the long block. Top it with a dual plain intake, a 600 cfm carb of your choice and a set of small primary full length headers and you will have the power of a 393 and only have to pay a touch over a grand for the whole thing.

Just something to think about. A stroked small block would be a cool build too.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-27-2011, 05:14 AM
Aaron-71's Avatar
Aaron-71 Aaron-71 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,034
Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.Aaron-71 has a very good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerforever View Post
That would be a lot easier and possibly cheaper to just slap in a refreshed 460/C6 combo than to install a stroker and getting it set up right.

I'll agree that building up or freshening up a 460 is easier, but if you're going to go through the trouble of finding an engine and tearing it apart to check if it has leaks/cracks/issues with the block and heads, why not do it with what you have instead of using a block you don't necessarily know as well as your own?

Plus slightly worked over but mild 460 will put out so much power without even trying. There is also so much more in there than a stroked small block could ever offer and it gives you some place to go when it’s time to upgrade again in a few years.

Sure, I can agree that a slightly worked over 460 can put out some decent power... but it's not what I have, and I don't like to take chances with what I know nothing about. For me, it would be like starting back at square one when I first got my 1972 351W (knowing nothing about it at first).

However, I don't agree that a stroked out small block can't match up to a 460 at all. If you want to go toe to toe, motor to motor, a 351W beats the 460 with what you can do if cash is endless... my example would be the 351W being turned into a 1000 hp drag racing engine vs. the max output a 460 can get which is a 557 IIRC, which puts out 900 hp. Not the same type of engine, nor is it the same application... but I can still prove my point in terms of power (which is what we're looking for).

Then theres the 400. This is a very underrated motor and could very be what you're looking for. It never reached its full potential in stock form and with a bump in compression and a cam change will easily hit the 400 HP mark. Plus with its 4" stroke it has more torque potential than a 393s with its 3.85 crank.

Just to correct you here, a 393 engine is meant for street/strip because it has a "short" stroke which performs better at higher rpms (drag/street racing applications). A 408 is meant for towing/hauling applications because it has a "long" stroke which performs better at lower torque ratings (towing, long haul applications).

The comparison of a 4.000" (long) stroke 400 to a 393 3.850" (short) stroke engine is a bit like a comparison of apples to oranges. A much better comparison would be the 4.000" stroke 400 to the 4.000" stroke 408. Nit picking, I know... but the 393 isn't meant for towing... it's mean to be raced...

400s are everywhere and cheap.

Not in my parts they aren't...

Find a set of flat top pistons, stab in a slightly warmer cam straight up (what killed the stock engines was the smog based retarded cams) and just refresh the rest of the long block. Top it with a dual plain intake, a 600 cfm carb of your choice and a set of small primary full length headers

You're basically rebuilding the engine, so why not just rebuild what you already had at this point?

and you will have the power of a 393 and only have to pay a touch over a grand for the whole thing.

I'd like to see some math on this one, but it looks like you're from the states with numbers like that. I don't think I've ever heard of someone nearly rebuilding an engine for a grand... at least in Canada...

Just something to think about. A stroked small block would be a cool build too.
Yes, a stroked small block would be cool. A gas guzzler, but a cool build nonetheless!

I've got a 1972 Ford Galaxy 351W small block waiting to get rebuilt. For towing applications, it needs a longer stroke for that low-end torque increase.

I COULD go for a different engine, but why? I have a kick-*** engine already! If it passes the checks of a wash and has no cracks afterwards, then I COULD sell it, or build it. Decisions... decisions....

Now, if my 351W block DOESN'T pass the crack check, then it's off to the cleaners and I'd pass it up for a different block (400, 460, something else, etc...).

EDIT: The links at the start of this thread were very helpful to me because now I see that the statements I made at the beginning of this thread were wrong. For instance, a 393 stroker is not meant for towing, and thus, not what should be used for my application (towing). A 408 stroker is much better suited for towing applications.

Also, my information about my truck has changed if some of you have noticed. My 351W is NOT out of a Cougar, but is from a 72 Galaxy (I had a chance to check the block casting numbers when taking apart some of the engine, and got the starter off). Also, I have now acquired a C6 small-block tranny to mount up to the 351W if I ever end up rebuilding it (got it at a great price).

Now that I know a heck of a lot more about what I want to do and where I can go with my block, this thread should really say "is a cheap 408 stroker build possible?"
__________________
-= Caution: Man at work =-
1978 F-150 Lariat, Reg. Cab, Long Bed
351 Windsor (1972), 2-barrel, FMX, 2WD
Quote:
Originally Posted by lxlmariuslxl
Aaron, you are the man.
Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2011, 05:14 AM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1966 f100 351c engine swap. 1966_F100 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 14 03-22-2010 08:31 AM
rearend / tranny chose axman Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case 3 10-09-2006 12:31 AM
FMX for towing? 46fordtruck Towing, Trailers & 5th Wheels 4 03-10-2005 01:11 AM
393 Stroker ? fishin machine Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W) 2 04-10-2004 08:18 PM
Replacing an FMX trans with? elemint 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 03-29-2004 04:00 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > Performance & General Engine Building

Tags
1978, 351, 351w, 393, 393w, build, cheap, cheapest, ford, fuel, injection, make, motor, power, stroker, truck, ups

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup