Joe

When you get all the glass back in your house and whatever else needs done to your humble abode, I need a little more wiper wisdom. I'll post my original if in the next post. Here's the deal. The wiper switch has seven terminals: B-1-2-3-4-5-W I have messed around some and all I have is one speed which I think is slow but I won't swear to it. The switch has off-low-high position. High position yields the only wiping movement. Heres the kicker, it goes to park when you return to off. I'm not imagining this. The arms/blades are off at the moment and I put a dot on it to verify the park function.

I'm not an electrician but I assume that B is for BAT power. Here are some continuity checks.

Off B-5

Low B-1-3

High B-2-4

Here is how it was wired when I found it. B-Fuse block 1-Red 2-GRN 5-GND

Starting to wonder if the motor is just shot. If it is I am adapting a decent motor to it instead of this high proiced aftermarket junk.

No hurry on this AT ALL, I am not going for any drives in the rain today.

'fenders

 

Here's the wiper motor info from my previous cry for help:

LAST EDITED ON 31-Oct-02 AT 06:49 PM (EST)

Rage
Got the motor dropped. Connector on motor is labeled and has 5 terminals.

L H P S X

I can see where the terminals go out the back of connector and is wired to the motor:

"L" has 2 wires coming out, 1 into the motor and 1 goes to back of the S terminal

"H" goes into motor

"P" not currently used

"S" as mentioned goes back to "L" and nowhere else

"X" not currently used

Wiper had one speed and that was slow. The wiper appears to be grounded by the case rather than the harness. There is a male connector that appears to be for that purpose. Wasn't used.

 

Hmmmm. Interesting. The switch is definitely designed for a parking motor, but how it's parking is a mystery to me. I hauled my schematics back over to the shop after the last go-round, but I'll consult with them tomorrow while the oil is draining out of the car. In the meantime, refresh my memory. Did you try grounding the case of the motor and then applying power first to the L and then to the H? I can't remember if you had or not. I would assume that this would yield two different speeds. Also, clarify something else for me. When you said in the original post that you could see the wires coming out of the connector, I assume you meant that you can see them coming out of the terminals from the opposite side that the harness plugs in to. Is it at all possible that some of the "unused" terminals might be getting into the motor somehow like down through the connector? I'm baffled as to how this thing can park with only two wires entering the motor. And lastly, what switch terminals do you have wired to which motor terminals at the moment?

 

<In the meantime, refresh my memory. Did you try grounding the case <of the motor and then applying power first to the L and then to the <H?

I can't tell for sure if that yields different speeds. It is back in the truck now. I will try it again.

<When you said in the original post that you could see the wires <coming out of the connector, I assume you meant that you can see <them coming out of the terminals from the opposite side that the <harness plugs in to. Is it at all possible that some of the "unused" <terminals might be getting into the motor somehow like down through <the connector? I'm baffled as to how this thing can park with only <two wires entering the motor.

That's all it appears to have is two that actually enter the motor.

<And lastly, what switch terminals do you have wired to which motor <terminals at the moment?

Nothing at the moment, motor is back in the truck again, switch is out for continuity tests but goes back in easy enough. I will verify the case is grounded, I don't know what else to try. Could it be a one speed motor with park? You wouldn't think so would you?

'fenders

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Dec-02 AT 11:02&nbsp;AM (EST)]'fenders,

I dug around and found the previous post and I had already asked you to try applying voltage to the L and H and you did verify that you got two different speeds. So now what I guess I need to know more than anything else is how you've got this wired up right now that you are getting one speed and park. Let me know and we'll go from there. And if you can, post a pic or two of the motor and one of the terminals on the switch. That will at least give me something to stare at while I cypher Ohm's law besides just my imagination.

 

"And if you can, post a PIC or two of the motor and one of the terminals on the switch. That will at least give me something to stare at while I cypher Ohm's law besides just my imagination. "


'rage

I'll try to get a PIC with it still installed. I'll also try to get it to have 2 speeds again to make sure it's not my imagination. And who is this Ohm guy you speak of? Is he pretty sharp on wiper motors too? You run into all kinds of folks on this internet thing.

'fenders

 

'rage

I think you can whip this one. I should have assembled it outside the truck. Remember in my original posts how I was saying the wiring can't be right. Take a look and I think you'll agree. Below are a couple shots. I can email a big PIC to you if needed.

Notice the red wire coming out connector? There is currently nothing going to the front side of connector. . If you give it 12 V, there is my high speed. The greenwire is clearly the low side and the only wire getting any juice. Nothing fancy going on inside the connector that I can tell. The red wire going to the motor isn't hooked to jack right now. I haven't tried anything yet (other than jumper the red wire) as I do not want to lose my magical Park function I am not supposed to have with a two wire motor. If I ever told you it had 2 speeds in the truck, I lied. It's impossible.

Thanks,
'fenders


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=10841&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=10842&.jpg

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=10843&.jpg

 

OK, sorry it took me so long to get back to you again, but I needed some time to consult with brother Ohm and study your pics. I think I've got this all figured out. THINK being the operative word there.
This is going to be long but thorough so print it so you can take it out to the garage and pay close attention so we don't confuse me any worse. Here's what I have concluded:

First of all, I should have had you post these pics when we went through this the first time. It would have saved us a lot of time and I wouldn't have lied to you about the motor not having a park switch because there is no possible way that this motor could park all by itself without one. See that neat little black plastic connector thingy that all the wires are going into and coming out of? Well, that's sitting in the exact place that you would expect to find a park switch. Either the switch is directly under this and the terminals somehow feed up into the block or else it has the switch built into it with an actuator sticking into the gearbox. I can't really tell from the pictures. When we went through this before, I didn't realize that you had a third black wire going from the switch to the motor. You are referring to this as "ground". From your continuity checks, I'm guessing that it goes to terminal number 5 on the switch. If it doesn't, STOP HERE and tell me what terminal it's on. This is the park wire. This is a non-dynamic wiper motor with wiring and operation exactly like the stock motor, so your schematics that you have are relevant. I think. All we have to do is figure out how to rearrange the wires to make it work right. We're going to prove or disprove my theory next.

OK, I am assuming that the motor is in the "off" or "parked" position right now. Go ahead and mark the linkage actuator with a reference mark so we can verify when it is and is not in the parked position. Now get the battery out of the truck and hook the B terminal on the switch to the + and ground the motor case to the -.
IF you've got a fuse holder of some sort laying around, it wouldn't hurt to fuse the B terminal - just in case. If at any point during this overly complex procedure do you get results other than my prediction, stop and post what happened. This is the only way I know of to figure this out blind and somebody else may find this marginally useful in the future if it's all in print.

1st test: Verify your above assertion that low gets you nothing and fast gets you low. Turn them off when the actuator gets to full swing and verify that it does indeed continue to run on back to the park position with the switch off. Try it a couple times to make sure. We are just making sure that it does on the bench what you say it does in the truck.

2nd test: Pull the black wire off of the switch. Repeat test 1. The results should be the same except now when you turn them off they should stop dead without returning to park. If so, then we have proven that you have a park switch and that the black is the park wire. go ahead and put the black wire back on and cycle the wipers again to return them to park.

3rd test: Unplug the green and red wires on the switch and plug them in the opposite way - Green to terminal 1 and red to terminal 2. If my cyphering is correct, now you should have low speed in low position, nothing in high, and the park function should still work. If so, then we're at least one step closer.

I'll stop here and wait for you to get this far. I'm still sure that we can get high to work as well, but I haven't decided how that's going to happen yet. There is some magic going on inside that black connector and I haven't got that figured out yet and don't want to until we've got the 1st three items out of the way. I'll probably want you to get me some pics of specific things in that connector and take some more ohm meter readings, but we'll worry about that later. OK, it's 1 AM. I'm going to bed.

Batman

 

1st test: Verify your above assertion that low gets you nothing and fast gets you low. Turn them off when the actuator gets to full swing and verify that it does indeed continue to run on back to the park position with the switch off. Try it a couple times to make sure. We are just making sure that it does on the bench what you say it does in the truck.

It has park, in the truck, out of the truck, outside and even in the basement.


2nd test: Pull the black wire off of the switch. Repeat test 1. The results should be the same except now when you turn them off they should stop dead without returning to park. If so, then we have proven that you have a park switch and that the black is the park wire. go ahead and put the black wire back on and cycle the wipers again to return them to park.

Black wire is park just as you suspect.


3rd test: Unplug the green and red wires on the switch and plug them in the opposite way - Green to terminal 1 and red to terminal 2. If my cyphering is correct, now you should have low speed in low position, nothing in high, and the park function should still work. If so, then we're at least one step closer.
I'll stop here and wait for you to get this far. I'm still sure that we can get high to work as well, but I haven't decided how that's going to happen yet. Batman

You nailed this one to, I await your guidance.

'fenders

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Dec-02 AT 06:38&nbsp;PM (EST)]OK, let's finish this up so that I won't have to worry about you having an accident the next time it rains in your garage. This is the only part that I'm not exactly sure how to tell you to do, but we'll get it one way or the other. I'm pretty sure that the following method will get the job done. We've established that the red wire is high and that it is now on the correct terminal on the wiper switch. All we have to do is figure out how to get it connected to the red wire coming out of the back side of the motor connector and you'll be all set. I've studied your pics and decided that somehow there is some magic going on in that connector on the motor. It probably has to do with the operation/placement of the park switch. The wires coming in do not align where it would make sense to me for them to coming out. But that's OK. We'll fix it.

First, turn the motor on with the black wire disconnected from the switch. When it cycles to full swing, turn it off. The object here is to get the motor stopped without making up the park switch. This will reduce the chance of an erroneous reading in part two. When you get it there, go ahead and disconnect the battery and then plug the black wire back in. If you do this without disconnecting the battery, it will start back up and proceed to park when you plug the black wire in.

Next, pull the plug off of the motor so you can see the terminals themselves inside the connector. Grab your ohm meter and put one lead on the red wire's terminal at the BACKSIDE of the connector where the wires come out and heads for the motor housing. Now start checking all the terminals in the front or plug side of the connector for continuity. We are looking specifically for 0 ohms or, depending upon the quality and accuracy of your meter, some other infinitessimally small resistance. You will probably show a resistance value of a few ohms between the red motor wire and a couple of other terminals - namely the one that the green wire is on. This is the resistance between the high and low brushes across the commutator inside the motor. We are looking for the one solitary terminal that nets a reading of 0 ohms. If there are more than one or you can't even find one, let me know and we'll have to try something else. If you found it, the one with 0 ohms resistance is the plug side terminal that we're going to have to get the red wire coming from the switch attached to. You can verify that you've got the right one by measuring the resistance between the red wire at the backside of the plug and the motor case and then between the identified terminal and the motor case. The readings should exactly match.

Now with that out of the way, we've got to get a wire on there. This is going to require disassembling the plug on the harness. Nearly every connector and plug that I've ever seen has got a terminal latch on each wire that retains the terminal, which is in turn crimped to the wire, in the plastic housing. Get a good, bright light and start looking into the ends of the plug for the latch that holds the red wire into it. They're not very big and sometimes hard to see. It's just a plastic tab. It may be on the wire side or the terminal side, but it's there. Now take a safety pen, needle, or some other small, sharp object and use it to raise the catch on the tab out of the recess in the terminal while pulling on the wire. It should slide right out.

You're almost home free. Move the terminal over to the empty slot on the plug that corresponds with the 0 ohms terminal on the block and push it in. You should here a distinct click when the latch engages. Give it a tug to make sure it is secure. That's it!

Plug the harness back in to the motor and hook the power back up. Assuming the switch is off, it should immediately park. Now if everything is working right, when you turn the switch to low, you should get low, high in high, and if you quickly go from high to off, they should run in low to park. If so, then congratulations, it is now Miller Time.

Thanks for being patient and bearing with me. I realize that some of my explanations have been tedious and that a lot of it was common sense, but I've been trying to be clear and concise. Good luck and let me know what you get!

 

Rage

News isn't as good this time but thanks a bunch for all the effort. Comments at the bottom

OK, let's finish this up so that I won't have to worry about you having an accident the next time it rains in your garage. This is the only part that I'm not exactly sure how to tell you to do, but we'll get it one way or the other. I'm pretty sure that the following method will get the job done. We've established that the red wire is high and that it is now on the correct terminal on the wiper switch. All we have to do is figure out how to get it connected to the red wire coming out of the back side of the motor connector and you'll be all set. I've studied your pics and decided that somehow there is some magic going on in that connector on the motor. It probably has to do with the operation/placement of the park switch. The wires coming in do not align where it would make sense to me for them to coming out. But that's OK. We'll fix it.
First, turn the motor on with the black wire disconnected from the switch. When it cycles to full swing, turn it off. The object here is to get the motor stopped without making up the park switch. This will reduce the chance of an erroneous reading in part two. When you get it there, go ahead and disconnect the battery and then plug the black wire back in. If you do this without disconnecting the battery, it will start back up and proceed to park when you plug the black wire in.

Next, pull the plug off of the motor so you can see the terminals themselves inside the connector. Grab your ohm meter and put one lead on the red wire's terminal at the BACKSIDE of the connector where the wires come out and heads for the motor housing. Now start checking all the terminals in the front or plug side of the connector for continuity. We are looking specifically for 0 ohms or, depending upon the quality and accuracy of your meter, some other infinitessimally small resistance. You will probably show a resistance value of a few ohms between the red motor wire and a couple of other terminals - namely the one that the green wire is on. This is the resistance between the high and low brushes across the commutator inside the motor. We are looking for the one solitary terminal that nets a reading of 0 ohms. If there are more than one or you can't even find one, let me know and we'll have to try something else.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I have identical resistance from the backside read to the frontside red or the black. It is open from the backside red to frontside green. I tried it in two motor positions away from park. My OTC meter is known to be a bit out of calibration. My readings were .7 ohms first test and 1.4 the second. My meter reads a bit on the high side.

'fenders

 

Oh, this hurts my head!! I don't know where the previous owner got this motor from, but the guy who built it most definitely smokes crack. Maybe we should sic Barb on him. ANYWAYS!

OK, you have powered up the red wire going to the motor several times and proved that it is capable of high speed. Let's try going about identifying the high speed terminal with a less technical approach. As a matter of fact, we're going to identify all of them once and for all.

First, with the motor parked and the harness unplugged, check the resistance from each terminal in the front side of the motor connector to the case. We're looking for any terminal that might have 0 ohms or even a few tenths of an ohm of resistance to ground. Now keep in mind that you will read resistance to ground through the motor windings on several terminals, but it will be a somewhat significant amount. We're just looking for direct shorts. I don't think that you'll find any since this appears to be a non-dynamic motor, but nothing else has made a lot of sense so far so we'd better check. If you don't find any, just for grins and giggles go ahead and run the motor away from park and check it again. If you still don't find any, we're good to go. If you do, note which terminal(s) it is. Now you can put away your meter.

We're going to do the rest of this the old-fashioned way. With the harness unplugged, ground the case and connect a jumper wire to the battery. (I know you've done this part several times, but I'm dying to know - are you using the vise-grips from your steering column to clamp the wire to the battery post?!? I am in SUCH rare form tonight!) Take the other end of the jumper and hold it on each terminal in the front side of the motor connector. If you identified any terminals that short to ground at any point in the last step, for obvious reasons do NOT touch these terminals with the jumper. Note the results on each terminal. I "THINK" that you will get low speed on two terminals, high speed on one, and if you touch the black wire's terminal and the motor happens to be away from park, it will run slow to park.

If that all worked out, then you now know what terminal is high and can proceed with moving the red harness wire to this blank on the connector per my last post. Any other problems or questions, by all means ask. I am committed to making this work now. It's a challenge. Even if a have to visit Iowa over Christmas, this WILL work!

 

OK take some aspirin, here comes another curve ball I suspect. Refer to post numbered 1 above (second post from top) for the teminals I refer to. I have to work tomorrow so take your time.

First, with the motor parked and the harness unplugged, check the resistance from each terminal in the front side of the motor connector to the case. We're looking for any terminal that might have 0 ohms or even a few tenths of an ohm of resistance to ground. Now keep in mind that you will read resistance to ground through the motor windings on several terminals, but it will be a somewhat significant amount. We're just looking for direct shorts. I don't think that you'll find any

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Wanna bet? I have continuity on these two posts on the connector front side L and S (The ones that appear to go to the green wire coming out the back)

since this appears to be a non-dynamic motor, but nothing else has made a lot of sense so far so we'd better check. If you don't find any, just for grins and giggles go ahead and run the motor away from park and check it again.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

And now I have continuity on L H P S (everthing except X where the black wires comes in.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I proceeded no farther with tests since it appears to be going somewhere unexpected.

but I'm dying to know - are you using the vise-grips from your steering column to clamp the wire to the battery post?!? I am in SUCH rare form tonight!)

Vise grips on the Flaming River column??? Not!!!!

I have a battery and the motor in the basement by the computer.
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Even if a have to visit Iowa over Christmas, this WILL work!

You are always welcome to visit but I am hopeful this three wired motor will be whipped before Christmas. I had no idea it could be this complicated.

'fenders