Hi everyone -

I recently purchased a McLeod clutch for my son's truck. Went to install it last weekend, and the bolt holes didn't quite line up. Everything I can find on the internet indicates that the spacing should be 3 3/8" for an 11" clutch.

https://www.centerforce.com/files/me...iOs9-Grm7yrA9g

The flywheel that is on there is stamped ford and it looks like "type 1" in the link above. The clutch I took off has a disc diameter of 11". But the flywheel bolt spacing measurements I take are 3.535. I see some references for 11.5" clutches that have a 3 9/16 spacing, but that doesn't seem quite right, neither.

Any recommendations on a clutch kit that will actually fit? I'm having trouble finding any kits that actually list what the spacing of the clutch to flywheel bolt holes are in their tech sheets/specifications.

Thanks,

Devin

 

https://www.mcleodracing.com/vehicle...ehicle-results

Have you called them and talk about why your truck seems to have a different flywheel ? I'm no expert but looks like most of their cultches are for type 2 bolt pattern... ?

I checked Summit Racing. looks like type 2 pattern too for the different kit's.

 

Hope this helps.....

I am not a fan of most of the "mail order" clutch guru's for street use vehicles and that includes McLeod, etc. A good local clutch rebuilder is best to purchase from.....in most cases they have access to the same or better components, have direct experience with the vehicle you specifically have, have direct knowledge of general drivetrain/chassis issues, are faster and cheaper than most of the oem replacement units.

Well, let me tell you about the last McCleod clutch "kit" that I bought.......... and this was in the late 1970's.

The vehicle it was going in was modified, cam, etc....just a real nice street engine- all newly rebuilt. Now, McCleod who I purchased this directly from (and I'm showing my age now), knew exactly what the vehicle was & its intended use.....I received my clutch a few days later.....(I'm in SoCal), with a note...don't downshift with this clutch it will cause pre-mature wear.

You have to be kidding me...I lived in the San Bernardino Mountains! I called them and basically they advised that warning was only for racing applications (what the ?)

Within 6 months, this custom built heavy duty clutch required re-adjustment monthly, & was completely worn out....pressure plate springs were weak (2 had completely failed to the point you could press them down by hand), the disc was worn & the diaphragm springs failed causing the disc to begin to warp........this was on a new, hand built engine.....which and was during the initial break in so it was not abused!

I replaced it with a unit from Clutchmasters......never an issue, nor on the other 6+ vehicles I have used them in.

Hays used to build nice clutches but was sold to a fortune 500 about 10+ years ago. Centerforce was also known for quality products.

Others input on McLeod

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...utch-last.html

AlloyPony

My dad and I put a McLeod clutch in his '03 Terminator this summer at the advice of the local dyno shop. His car makes around 500 at the rear tires. They told him the twin disc McLeod was the best thing he could buy. Said that they are expensive...but you get what you pay for.

So, he threw down the coin for the McLeod and we put it in. Pedal felt awesome and car drove great. FIRST trip out to the cruise in on Saturday night the car smoked the clutch. Smoked it so bad that he couldn't even drive it home. Took it back out and went down to the shop and of course they wouldn't stand behind it. But the guy pointed at the discs and said "there's your problem". The McLeod had "Made in China" stamped on the friction discs.

So...long story short he paid to have the discs re-lined with quality American made Kevlar friction material and the car has been fine ever since. But I seriously doubt he'll buy another McLeod clutch ever again. Or listen to hear-say about performance parts ever again for that matter. Lol. That was a very expensive lesson.

I think the clutch that came out of the car was a Centerforce clutch. It had been in there for a long time...like 3 or 4 years of being beaten on.

http://www.mustangcollective.com/showthread.php?t=32071

Nice Pony

McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch started dragging after a couple of weeks. Called McLeod, after determining that indeed the clutch was dragging Lee said to pull it, send the whole assembly including the flywheel to him and he would fix it and make sure it worked properly. He also noted to us that the two disks are different thickness and on a rare occasions his supplier of the discs has shipped the wrong sizes. When we pulled the clutch and it was right away obvious, three nuts on studs that hold the floater plate to the adapter plate installed at the factory and there is no mention of torqueing them, removing them or anything at all in the installation manual. They all three had back off so obviously they had not been tightened at the factory. Installation instructions on the McLeod web site that were different then what shipped with the clutch. On the web site it states to torque the three floater plate nuts to 25ft-lbs and use Red Locktite on them which obviously never had been done at the factory. The floater plate was burned a little so we sent the entire assembly to Lee to refresh it.

After getting the clutch rebuilt and re-installed, the same issue persists. The clutch will not dissengage properly if you come to a stop with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. It also has a rougher than average engagement from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd for the TR6060. It doesnt happen every time, but probably 50% of the time. After taking the transmission out for the third time in 2 months, I have to give up on this clutch.

05MoneyPit

Got the same clutch in my car but I'm running a TKO600. Engagement is solid and brutal but shifting it is a PITA. Mike www.powerhouse411.com fought with it also when they did the engine rebuild. Tried different T/O spacing set-ups and now have a steel line from the master but it still isn't smooth. I just can't hit 2nd and 3rd like I think I should be able to. Sent the unit back to McLeod once, they re-built it and it was better for a while but has never been perfect.

The outfit that I have been buying clutches from for 30+ years is family owned and have used their clutches in many applications from Hot Rods, work trucks & racing applications. Just tell them of any concerns, what you have, etc and they will discuss with you what their recommendations are...I can honestly state that I have never had and issue with anything I have every purchased from them and it always works the 1st time- just like it is suppose to! They typically cost less than most of the competitors, provide 24 hour turn-around and the assemblies always work (literally) just exactly the way they should....I just can't say enough about these guys. Just tell them what you have, how you use it and any concerns/issues.

Unless you need a “Gorilla Type Clutch”, their FX200 series will more than suffice for most street or street strip applications…..and it’s priced about the same as an oem replacement unit.

Clutchmasters
267 E. Valley Blvd.
Rialto, CA
909-877-6800

 

Thanks for the input. This is the first attempt I've had with McLeod. They are refunding the unit, so that is good. I don't have any clutch builders that are close to me.

 

My story with a McLeod clutch is just the opposite. In 1978 I watched the shop Foremen build my pressure plate for my car. Custom built long finger style plate. That thing was awesome I drag raced the car on weekends even once at Orange County. Drove the car back to CT towing another car across the states. Clutch was still awesome when I sold the car in 1983.

Also spent many nights cruising E street in San Bernardino CA.