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I have a 6.2 with 142K miles on it that has just started to set the engine light with the knock/vibration sensor. At times it's barely noticeable that it's stumbling and there seems to be no common denominator. There are times that it really knocks and I have to back off the throttle. I've run Heat through the fuel as well as other cleaners. The next step will be plug wires, plugs and boots. I don't know when they were done last. Bought the truck with 132K miles on it and don't have much history. It was owned by Onyx, a Texas based company as a service truck so I think it was maintained but who knows. Are there common chaffing areas on the wiring harness of the truck? The issue is very sporadic. I can reset my check engine light and sometimes drive all day without it setting the light again but it eventually comes back. Any help would be appreciated.
Plugs and wires are a necessity on a new-to-you 6.2, take note of what plugs were used previously.
Coils - it is common for junk coils to be used as new replacements on 6.2s (and other gassers of this genre) because the oem coils are so expensive. Verify that you have oem coils. If you end up replacing them because plugs / wires didn't clean up your misfire, or you troubleshoot further to determine coil(s) are bad, make sure you bite the bullet and buy oem coils only.
The 6.2 can drive you nuts with ghost misfires, be diligent and thorough when working on the ignition system. Don't drive with misfires - the cats won't live long.
The weak point the 6.2 ignition is the pills going to the top plug. Pull the coils and remove the boot and you may find this.
When this happens it eats the fins in the coil that supports the pill and a new pill will not stand up. What I did on mine was use a piece of shrink tubing to hold the pink upright.
I did this to all my coils even the ones that weren't damaged but I did have a coil fail last winter and I replaced with a Standard coil.
What I really liked was what they did with the pill. I've had no problem with the new coil working with the old ones.
If it was a new to me truck I would start from square one and replace all 16 plugs, wires and boots.
Denny
Thanks for the help. It's setting P06B6 and P06B6-00. I plan to start with new wires, boots and plugs. I'm running the truck as my HVAC service truck and I need so set aside a day to dig around on the engine. Thanks for the photos and suggestions.
That code indicates an internal PCM error with the processor for the knock sensor. You can call a dealer with your VIN and see if there are any related open recalls that update the calibration available. HOWEVER, there are plenty of cases of ppl reporting that problem is fixed by replacing coils/wires/plugs. If you don't know when those were done, it may not be a bad idea to start there as preventive maintenance. Ford's schedule for the plugs is 105k miles and that seems a little long, honestly.
That code indicates an internal PCM error with the processor for the knock sensor. You can call a dealer with your VIN and see if there are any related open recalls that update the calibration available. HOWEVER, there are plenty of cases of ppl reporting that problem is fixed by replacing coils/wires/plugs. If you don't know when those were done, it may not be a bad idea to start there as preventive maintenance. Ford's schedule for the plugs is 105k miles and that seems a little long, honestly.
I always thought 100+k mile spark plugs were ridiculous also. While they certainly can "spark" that long, I have replaced them on more than a few fleet vehicles at that service interval and the engines always run noticeably better, so just cuz they still spark doesn't mean they're still sparky.
Yeah, the double platinum plugs are great and last a long time, but they sure don't last forever. And if a previous owner replaced them with a cheaper plug, well then all bets are off.
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