Front spring to shackle torque question
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Lake Stevens
Front spring to shackle torque question
Hi all,
I recently added a 2.5" leveling kit to my 2000 F350 7.3 CC LB 4wd. I am a bit concerned about torquing the front spring to shackle bolt (rear eye of the front spring).
Torque specs show the shackle to frame bolt (185 lb ft) was no issue. The spring to shackle nut (same torque) is where I am having an issue. I am seeing the shackle actually collapsing inward towards the spring, so I stopped torquing (even though I was really leaning into it). After driving it, I tried to torque again, it collapsed a little more but still didn't achieve the required torque.
Has anybody ever had this issue? Should I keep torquing it until I hit the specs even If it collapses more? It has me a bit concerned.
Thanks guys...
I recently added a 2.5" leveling kit to my 2000 F350 7.3 CC LB 4wd. I am a bit concerned about torquing the front spring to shackle bolt (rear eye of the front spring).
Torque specs show the shackle to frame bolt (185 lb ft) was no issue. The spring to shackle nut (same torque) is where I am having an issue. I am seeing the shackle actually collapsing inward towards the spring, so I stopped torquing (even though I was really leaning into it). After driving it, I tried to torque again, it collapsed a little more but still didn't achieve the required torque.
Has anybody ever had this issue? Should I keep torquing it until I hit the specs even If it collapses more? It has me a bit concerned.
Thanks guys...
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Lake Stevens
Yep, steel bushings on both sides. Maybe they don't protrude as much as the stock ones. Fronts (to hangers) torqued down fine (203 lb ft) with no issues.
It just makes me concerned that either they may damage/fatigue the shackles or by not being torqued adequately will cause me issues or a possible dangerous situation...
It just makes me concerned that either they may damage/fatigue the shackles or by not being torqued adequately will cause me issues or a possible dangerous situation...
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 69
Likes: 42
From: Lake Stevens
Well, just ran out and measured old spring. Springs are 3.0" wide and bushing protrudes .250"/side making the overall width 3.500".
Looking at the new ones, they don't protrude as much. Shackle opening right now has closed to around 3.300", so they have closed .200" total, .100"/side.
It looks like the steel bushings are just touching the inside of the shackle (towards the bottom). However, since the shackle tapers from top to bottom, that could be an unsafe issue.
The last thing I want to do is have to remove these and add spacers or some other fix. At 62, switching these was a huge pain in the a$$.
Any thoughts people?
Looking at the new ones, they don't protrude as much. Shackle opening right now has closed to around 3.300", so they have closed .200" total, .100"/side.
It looks like the steel bushings are just touching the inside of the shackle (towards the bottom). However, since the shackle tapers from top to bottom, that could be an unsafe issue.
The last thing I want to do is have to remove these and add spacers or some other fix. At 62, switching these was a huge pain in the a$$.
Any thoughts people?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 69
Likes: 42
From: Lake Stevens
It's a Rough Country 2.5" leveling kit. I guess it's possible they used the wrong bushing. I guess I'll call them tomorrow.
Did get them torqued, but not happy w/the amount of collapse, probably not safe.
Did get them torqued, but not happy w/the amount of collapse, probably not safe.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,940
Likes: 13
Handful of times ive done this its not been enough difference to notice. The shackle does tend to "spring" open once relieved of pressure. If the shackle looks square in relation to the spring i wouldnt worry about it.
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