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When I got my 66 in March, it had a radiator leak. I put in a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, and hoses. It does a good job staying cool in the situations I've put it in (idling or driving down the road at about any speed). This weekend we were in the Centennial Route 66 Parade. Everything went fine during the parade, but we were in stop and go traffic while staging for the parade. We were on a slight hill and only moving forward inches at a time. After 10 minutes of that, the temperature gauge was higher than I had seen. My hunch is this isn't abnormal and the advice to prevent that is a fan shroud (which I can't seem to find for a 66). But while this was happening, the oil light started coming on when it was at idle. It also felt like it was about to stall, but I started keeping the idle a bit higher using the accelerator. If I revved the engine, the oil light would turn off, but I figured that'd make the heating issue worse. I don't understand why that oil light was going on, but to me it seemed to correspond with the higher temperature. While I was trying to dance on three pedals with two feet, I accidentally stomped the brake without also stomping the clutch, which cause her to die. Then she wouldn't restart. She'd turn over but not fire up. I sat there a few minutes and turned on the flasher. After waiting a short time, I used the "is it flooded?" start-up technique, and it started. The oil light was still coming on at low RPMs and I kept nursing it along. Once we entered the staging area I was able to drive at normal(ish) speeds until we parked. I was able to shut her off and open the hood for about an hour before the parade. When it was time to start, she roared to life and was ready to roll. No problems at all the rest of the day, which included about an hour of parade time as well as a lot of driving around west Tulsa for a few more hours.
Any ideas on why my oil light was coming on, why she had trouble starting back up, and why she felt like she was going to die at idle? I appreciate everyone's advice!
Oil lights are like check engine lights - not much information from a light. A mechanical oil pressure gauge can be connected temporarily to see how low is low. This is the only way to know if you’re damaging the engine. Higher rpms allows more coolant flow and makes the fan spin faster for greater cooling.
I would hook up a temporary oil pressure gauge, to see if your sending unit is telling the truth, or do you in fact have low oil pressure. Also, a leaking fuel pump diaphragm will put gas in the oil...making it thin
It might be something as simple as your truck idling too low.
My truck’s a bit cold-blooded. If I’ve not driven it in a couple days, and I forget to choke it at start-up - besides running a bit rough, both idiot lights come on. Till I remember to pull out the choke for a minute or so. Once it is warmed/choke pushed in, it runs good, lights go out.
An oil light is the last defense against no oil pressure. I'd say that's very helpful. An unexpected loss of oil pressure is not going to be noticed on an oil pressure gauge unless you happen to be looking at it. A light coming on however, will get your attention. It comes on at like 5PSI, give or take, or less, I don't remember exactly. If increasing RPM makes it go out, you may have the beginnings of chronic low oil pressure. In other words, the old dog is worn out!
Also, in a pinch, if overheating, you can turn heat on full blast for a slight increase in overall cooling system capacity. You may find it uncomfortable but I've done it when in similar situations; I.E. idling in line.
It never hurts to check the wiring too, especially if it's original. Had an issue a while back where every time I was approaching a stop the oil light would flicker. Turned out the wire at the sensor was hanging on by just a strand or 2 and the vibration/movement would set off the light.
I appreciate all the advice! I've purchased a new oil pressure gauge and sensor and also engine temperature sensor. Since the truck runs great except in a few specific circumstances, I'll get those hooked up and start gathering better data before doing anything drastic.
Oh, based on the advice given, I think I'll also adjust the idle speed a little. I've been around smaller engines than this one for most of my life and around 1,000 RPM always seems like a natural idle speed for me. I don't have a tach on the truck yet, but I read the idle speed should be quite a bit lower than that, so in my "adjusting by ear" I probably have it a bit low. It also wouldn't hurt to tune the carb again. I've replaced a lot of other components since I did the carb.
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