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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Brake lights problems

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Old May 30, 2026 | 08:38 PM
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Brake lights problems

1969 F100. Previous owner had backed over something and dented the roll pan and tore the rear wiring harness apart. The wires leading to both driving lights/ brake lights/backup lights are still there, but the plug that those wires plugged into is gone. I found which wires are hot when the rear running lights are on, then when truck is put into reverse, and then when the brake pedal is depressed. Can I just splice all that together to the existing tail light harness to make them work for now? In the picture I marked the hot wires for the brakes with a "B" , the running lights with an "R", and the backup lights with a "BA". Any pointers on how to make it work?


 
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Old May 30, 2026 | 09:56 PM
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Yes you can splice the wires to reconnect them. That's what was done to add trailer lights. I would recommending soldering the connections and seal up with some shrink tubing. These wires are under size so they will not carry a lot of current, besides the voltage drop. I would use 16 ga wire if you need to extend them.
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 01:33 AM
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Agree with blue. Should be pretty straightforward. In fact, you can even make it better if you are reasonably proficient at splicing and dicing, and have the tools.
When I have this kind of issue, I am now fully in the GM Weatherpack connector camp. I have replaced a lot of the old style connectors on different components of old trucks and really like the Weatherpacks.
Easy to separate and put back together, even years down the road. And you don't have to worry about the "weather" intruding into the connections.

But speaking of that, if you keep the old style rubber push-together type, make sure they're still in good condition and clean. Then apply some di-electric grease (as opposed to conducting "electric" grease) to make servicing them easier in the years to come. Keeps the contact points clean, lubricated and rust-free. Should'a been done from the factory!

If you're not into changing the style, but your existing 3-prong keyed connections are not in that great of shape, you can usually still find similar ones in the trailer wiring section of most auto parts stores. They might even have the same wiring colors!

Good luck.

Paul
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 07:28 AM
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Both good advice
I would like to see you have a connector in there like the stock one
I would also use the good / best heat shrink tubing that has the wax sealer stuff
I would also take the time to solder the wires
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 11:42 AM
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Do you still have the connector on the tail lights?

You do need some way to disconnect the lights so the bed can be removed if needed.

I've been using Deutsch water proof connectors on my build, more compact than the weatherpack.
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 12:46 PM
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Thanks for the advice and tips, I'm going to go buy some wire and connectors and give it a shot.
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 01:18 PM
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Yeah, the Deutsch are even nicer than the Weatherpacks. I stuck with them though, because at the time I bought a good supply, the Deutsch were not as readily available locally, and frankly I've never done one before, so was loathe to learn something new. Especially if it meant buying new tools!!
Although, any excuse for new tools was always a good excuse. Never stopped me before.
Must be getting old...

Paul
 
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Old May 31, 2026 | 05:06 PM
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I think I have 7+ different wire crimpers and some with multiple jaws. Finding the right jaws to fit the pins can be a pita. I went high end on the Deutsch's, machined pins, vs stamped. Even got the rotary crimper so all I do is select wire gauge and pin size, 1 and done, bullet proof.

I consider my self a tool collector. I would rather buy the tool than pay some one to do it or rent a tool for a 1 time only use. Been doing it now for 50+ yrs. Yhea I'm getting older every day.
 
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